Jack

Had the same problem - thought the centre bearing was going. Took the plunge (good exchange rates) and bought a one piece from the US - when I removed the 2 piece the prop centre bearing was ok... Tried the 1 piece and it still vibrated - car accelerated faster - 97NA. Had the 2 piece checked-out and balanced etc by a company called Propshaft Clinc - and they said it's not the prop nor the rear geatbox mount. it's the hangers on the exhaust that were too long and putting extra strain on the rear gearbox mount... So I replaced the hangers with Bluebird items (£20) and guess what - the vibes went away... Turned out to be an expensive lesson. And the 2 piece is certainly smoother than the one piece. Good luck Jack

Exhaust hanger - took me 7 years to discover the reason... Tried everything - couldn't understand why the vibes kept coming back. Sold the car last weekend... Must wean myself off the forum. Good luck Jack

Chris - start with the exhaust hangers - they sag with age and the weight of the exhaust pulls down the rear gearbox mount making the prop out of alignment. Bluebird hangers will do the job. £20 If it still vibrates, the next cheapest item is the rear gearbox mount itself. £60 After that people tend to replace the centre bearing but often they are ok. If you finish up removing the prop and the centre bearing looks ok, you can have the prop recon'd and balanced for about £70 - and they'll tell you wether the centre bearing needs replacing £160. Good luck Jack

Tony - I've just put my midnight purple '97 na up for sale - I'll be taking some photos of it this coming weekend, so keep an eye on the for sale section. cheerz Jack

Look for the early ones - Nissan were cutting corners by the time my 97 came along and the boot carpet was nowhere near as good as the 91 I had previous. Good luck Jack

RobboGaz from Suffolk had the same done not long ago - ask him how much it cost. I know the first place he took it to declined the job... Good luck Jack

ABS - it forms a bulk in the boot - without it, no bulk. Having said that my 97NA has no ABS but the bulk (a piece of black plastic boot liner) is still there... Good luck Jack

and with the rear gearbox mount - watch out for sagging exhaust rubbers. If they are failing ie too long, they'll place too much weight onto the rear gearbox mount - and you'll get the vibes. Replacing the gearbox mount with a new one will solve the problem but it'll soon be back... Try to get it so that the exhaust places almost no strain on the mount. Good luck Jack

I've run an NA for about 7 years, and on average £30 buys 200 miles - auto and currently manual - both stock, used daily, and I'm an old man...

Front wheel bearings or rear? I've a pair of front's going spare... new. Cheers Jack

The filler pipe often corrodes through as it's a mud trap up there... I've got one doing nothing in the garage - PM me your address and I'll send it to you FOC - I've a fuel tank you can have as well FOC, but it's collect only - Ipswich. Good luck Jack

You can use the standard Nissan TT exhaust on an NA. It needs the restrictor rings removing (easy job, screwdriver and hammer) before you fit it. It has a smaller centre box than the standard NA system so sounds a bit 'fruitier'. Watch out for non-standard TT exhausts on an NA as their design dosn't suit a normally aspirated car - and it'll be too loud as you don't have 2 turbos acting as silencers. ...and of course you can pick up standard Nissan TT exhausts relatively cheaply... Good luck Jack

Had mine all sorted by a crash repair specialist - all the alignment and geometry sorted on their rig - cost about £64 in all. Good value, car drove really straight, no tyre wear. That was about 18 months ago - it's now pulling to the left and rather than have the tracking checked by tyre fitters, I'm thinking of taking it back to the same crash repair people ...at least they know what they are doing. Good luck Jack

A coincidence maybe. Oil levels ok? Quality of oil ok? Dipstick all the way in? Good luck Jack

Too much oil and it can get past the seal between engine and gearbox (bit non-technical that description) and drip onto the exhausts. Blocked PCV valves can also cause this. I suggest you run it for a while with the correct oil, then have it cleaned underneath so that any subsequent oil leaks can be seen easily - then fix them (if they actually exist). Good luck Jack

you need to raise both sides of the car equally so that there's no movement in the anti-roll bar - get it up on axle stands - that'll do it. good luck jack

try silicone spray on the shock absorbers - top, bottom and where the chrome rod enters the main body of the shock - under the dust boot - if it's still there. Good luck Jack

You might not need to do anything - it could be lack of use - try pumping them and make sure that you put your foot under the brake pedal to lift it to it's full height before depressing it again. I seem to recall a similar problem on a Z i had sitting around for a while... Good luck Jack

Dave Any car paint thinners will do - not sure if it's all celulose, but I think you can buy it from all of the usual Halfords, Wilco etc - if not, if you've a specialist car paint supplier near you, ask them, they'll most likly know the answer... Good luck Jack

Couldn't just be a faulty spark plug on No1 could it? Good luck Jack

Dave The white spirit should do it if it's a spirit-based sprayed layer that you are trying to remove. As it's taking so long it might not be spirit-based. Therefore, before anything else, try soapy water - you never know, it could be a water-based spray, after that I'd try a celulose thinner but be carefull of removing whatever's holding the heated rear screen element in place. Good luck Jack

I believe the GPS systems are accurate. I have a Roadpilot Camera Warning system mounted to the top of the dash - far right, and I use it as the speedo... And, with the conversion on the Jap clocks (97NA) it's good up to about 80 when the clocks start to read a tad slow. Good luck Jack

Water pump bearing gone. Doesn't leak at standstill - well, not a lot, only leaks on the move. Can't explain the steam from the exhaust thougt - I'd agree with you about the head gasket... Just a further thought that you might not want - cracked head. Opens when warm. Did you test the cylinders when cold? Good luck Jack

I've run NAs for 7 years as a daily driver and £30 buys 200 miles - give or take. Watch out for the insurance companies looking up a normally aspirated 300ZX and finding a Z31 instead of a Z32. The Z31 is the previous model and was sold in the UK in normally aspirated form. Good luck Jack

Cheap as chips - well done. Cheerz Jack