Jack

Ipswich... if you have a fax number I'll send you a sketch of what to do. Cheerz Jack

The UJs are 2 C sections joined at 90 degrees by a cross bearing (sorry about the non-technical description). If the UJ is notchy or stiff take a very heavy hammer to the leading edge of the C and belt it inwards untill the stiffness dissapears - a couple or 4 belts normally does it. Do this to each UJ. I had what I was convinced was centre bearing failure but on removal of the prop and bearing, the bearing was ok but the UJs were very stiff. Having previously fitted a steering UJ, I knew that if you widen the C of the UJ, it becomes very stiff - therefore closing up of the C would loosen the UJs - and it does. Put it all back on and it's like new... Good luck Jack

It could be the UJs on your prop. Remove the prop and check on the centre bearing. If the UJs are notchy (stiff) then you'll get the vibes you are talking about. If they are notchy, there is a simple remedy to fix them... Good luck Jack

Article in Auto Express recently said to save fuel drive like this... foot to the floor, when you reach 2000 rpm, change up and floor it again. Do this till you reach your travelling speed then foot off and on (to the floor) to maintain driving speed. They proved that for a wide range of petrol cars it reduced fuel consumption by about 16 to 20%. Theory is - over 2000 rpm you are using fuel to combat friction. With the throttle wide open there's less obstruction for max airflow, and also with the throttle wide open a 'modern' engine management system will out-perform what a human can do with the loud pedal when trying to save fuel. A colleagure tried it on a few tankfulls (1400cc VW) and says it definately works although holding a constant cruising speed is a bit difficult. I've not tried it in my NA, but it could be fun in a TT... Cheerz Jack

you might find that you have to put an over-sized bolt in there as the thread is most likely stripped - that's why the bolt is missing - been there, done that. Good luck Jack

Dave - on a nice day take the car out for a run then renove the stock air filters and then take it out on the same run - and see if there's a noticeable difference to the performance. If there is then a free-flowing induction kit is the way to go. If there's isn't then you've saved even more money. Of course if you knacker the airflow metre in the process (unlikly) then I appologise for the suggestion. Good luck Jack

...and if you have a hole in your fuel tank or filler kneck, let me know as I've both sat in the garage doing nothing... Cheerz Jack

The AAC valve in old money is the choke. If it's stuck, it's like driving with the choke fully out - so yes, you'll get poor running and very poor fuel economy (not a word commonly used on this forum). Take it off, squirt with WD40, rattle it about to make sure it's loose (insides) and put it back on... Good luck Jack

This might not be much help but on my 90 NA that pipe operated the gurgling AIVs under the wheel arches. I removed them and blocked-off the pipe. Pipe blocked or unblocked it made no difference to the engine performance. Therefore if unblocking yours means the car runs better, it could mean that another source of air into the balance bar is blocked causing the trouble - and the pipe you have removed is not the faulty item, nor the cure... Good luck Jack

Phil - well done. Welcome to Suffolk. There are lots of northerners down here you know... all you'll really have to get used to is warm beer, Suffolk pink, thatched houses, no hills and a strange accent - apart from that it's just the same. Let me know when you are around. Cheerz Jack

Is removing an airbag steering wheel easy? Just a thought... Good luck Jack

from memory you drain whatever comes out. also from memory you re-fill it for a while - remaining old oil mixes with new oil, then after a while you drain it again and re-fill again. thats why you get supplied more oil (from MJP) than you think you need... Good luck Jack

- difficult to change - hope you've got small hands and like lying on your back under the car for 3 hours... Good luck Jack

...after-market clutch. The original's light.

...just a thought here - don't want to satrt an argument, but I got rid of a too noisy Powerflow exhaust on my 97 NA and replaced it with an aftermarket (Japanese) exhaust - not as noisy, and then with a standard Nissan TT exhaust with the baffle rings removed - and as well as it being the quietest exhaust of the 3, it also gives the best performance... And it was like-new and cheap at £60. Good luck Jack

...I believe VVT was abandoned mid 95 in favour of 'wilder' cam profiles. ...more useless information... Good luck Jack

Happy birthday Pete - have you retired? Cheerz Jack

Pete ...good luck with the wedding. Cheerz Jack

There's an exhaust place on Sproughton Road industrial estate (Ipswich) that will sell you the gaskets - I think they refer to them as Ford Granada items - £2 each. Fit 2 to each joint. Easiest way is take an old one and say - got any of these? ...as soon as you tell them what it's far, they'll say they don't have such a thing... Good luck Jack.

7+ years as daily drivers -91 and now 97 NAs, approx 15k miles a year - only time off the road was waiting for a water pump to arrive to replace a leaky one. 1000 mile trip? and you are worried? ...walk in the park... Good luck Jack

Pete - I think that you'll find that the standard route of new gearbox mount and centre bearing is fine for a 2 piece (ie 3 UJs) as the centre UJ takes a lot of strain from any difference in angle between the box and the diff and the centre bearing fixes the overall geometry (please excuse my poor terminology), but with a one piece, it looks like that as you lower the gearbox it'll reduce the angle between the box and the diff therefore asking less of the 2 UJs. On the basis that it's potentially (haven't tried this yet) just a few washers between the car and the gearbox rear bearing support beam to test the theory, you should give it a go and let us know how you get on. I'm tempted to do the same and add more spacers behind the centre bearing too, as it'll also improve the line (between box and diff) even on a 2 piece... ...all this of course is a bodge to rectify poor alignment brought about by age... but hey! ...if it works... Good luck Jack

Ok - try disconnecting the batter when the car is not in use (assuming it dosn't get used daily) and see if the battery retains it's charge... a simple check. And I do sympathise with you, my wife's Saab is excatly the same... Good luck Jack

altenator. Mine failed without the normal red warning light. It managed to charge the battery a little but eventually gave up. You can check it with a volt-meter? ..when it's running, it should be delivering, from memory, about 14 volt? ...if it's below 12 then you need a new altenator. Someone with the actual figures will correct me. good luck Jack

Clive - the inner pads have a metal bracket on them that catches on the disks when the pads get worn down. You need to check both front rear pads. It's simple, losen the wheel nuts, jack-up the car, remove the wheel, remove the 2 pins that hold the pads in place, remove the pads and check their condition. The pads are pushed onto the disks via 4 pistons, if either bank of these pistons is sticking then you'll get uneven pad wear. When the pads are out take a flat bar and carefully prise these pistons back into the calipers but first put a pad in the other side of the disk so that these pistons don't pop out. Do this to both banks of pistons - and make sure your brake fluid canister (engine compartment) dosn't overflow. Grease everything lightly with copper grease and put it all back together. Watch out as you'll have no brakes untill you've used them a couple of time. ...good luck, this is a simplified version of what needs doing, so, please take care. Cheerz Jack

...they will be miles... Does the speedo indicate the speed that you are traveling at in miles per hour? If so, then it records miles not Kms. Good luck - still not great. Cheerz Jack