Jack

Pete - Richard (SuffolkZX) is about to fit a one piece prop to his auto NA. You've heard my story - it's not the one piece prop that's to blame, it's something else - I'm still looking, when I find it I'll let you know. I've an MOT coming up in a weeks time and I know the tester ...going to pick his brians, if I haven't got the answer before that. Cheerz Jack

There's a metal window stop at the top of the windows that seems to bend out with age. As it does this the window dosn't sit tight against the rubber seal. So, try bending the metal stop in towards the car and with luck, your window will seal again... good luck Jack

LWB - more usefull and prettier.

I've drven an NA daily for almost 8 years now - first an auto and now a manual. 30 mile round trip daily and both do about 200 miles for £30 of petrol. If you are in traffic a lot, buy an auto. If you want to play with the engine revs buy a manual. My money would be on either a 92 auto (lots of kit for your money) or a post july 95 manual - VVT replaced by 'wild' cams. Either way get a derestricted Nissan TT exhaust on it for max fun without breaking the 'sound barrier'. Good luck. Are you the bloke who discussed weight reduction in a Z a few years ago. Great thread. The NA is approx 13 stone lighter than a TT...

The relay is there (on an Auto) to prevent you from removing the key untill the lever is in Park. ...not required on a manual. Cheerz Jack

You'll be buying a motorhome next...

Waxy stuff? Water in the oil? ...head gasket? ...cracked head? Good luck Jack

Sorry to hear that. The elastic band fixed my previous Auto for about 2 years before it snapped and I 'upgraded' it to a sandwich bag wire tie - still going strong 6 years later... Cheerz Jack

fix the one you have - if it's because it won't release the key, you can tie open the release solenoid with an elastic band - dead easy. good luck jack

Ed - it's got the 50p pieces welded to one end. Just tried a jubillee clip on the diff end (easiest to get to) but no good. I think it's lateral angle thats causing the problem, and not the prop itself ...I've changed the vertical angle but to no avail. I'll look further into a solution. Good luck with the new engine. Cheerz Jack

Ed - sorry to hear of the piston ring failure - and thanks for the prompt response. Sounds like I need to get the prop balanced. Cheerz Jack

Craig Ive some 40 inch Humax coming in in payment for a job. Good spec at £470. If you want, PM me your email address and I'll send you the spec. You can come and look at them too if you want as we are in Ipswich. Cheerz Jack

ed - I can quote your thread word-for-word - very informative. But, now that your one piece prop is 'not bent', does it run smooth? Did the guys that straightened it for you actually do that or did they counter-balance it to offset the effect of 'the bend'? cheerz Jack

Pete The prop did come from the States. Have you had your prop balanced? or was it supplied balanced? I'm assuming that they are balanced, but if this is the case, where's the vibration coming from? Prior to buying the prop I've been through all of the usual checking tyres, wheels etc so I think they are all ok. Anyone got any ideas? Cheerz Jack

Bought a single piece prop from Z1 and fitted it over the weekend. All looks ok but somethings not right as at 60mph it drones something awful - and it increases with speed. I've checked everything, rotated the diff connection through 180 degrees and even raised the new(ish) rear gearbox mount in case it was sagging - but all to no avail. So, a couple of questions - do I need to ballance the shaft - jubilee clips etc - or am I missing something? Any advice much appreciated. The new one piece prop is steel and the cars a 97NA 2+2. The old prop was unbelieveably notchy especially at the diff end - and the centre bearing looked ok but had a lot of play in it. Vibrated lots at 70mph. Cheerz Jack

When you've cut out the old bushes and see the amount of 'engineering' there is in them you'll realise that poly bushes are a poor substitue - in my opinion. Mike at MJP can get hold of original Nissan bushes - about £50 per side. You'll need a vice to squeeze them in... Good luck Jack

cut them out and then chisel out the steel casing that they were in - messy job - so that you are left with the arm and it's welded-on, don't know how to describe it - tube. good luck Jack

Trade car electrical factors in Ipswich. Cost £122 from memory. There was no glowing warning light on the dash, just progressive electrical component shut down. In true Keep-the-cost-down style, I'd charge the battery overnight and it;'d get me to work and back ok. I'd organised a 2nd hand unit from Andy in Thetford (£40) but couldn,t collect it for a few days. Then, someone blocks the A14 and all the traffics going through Ipswich. It's dark and raining and it's stop-start traffic. You know what's next, after almost everything inc the headlights has shut down it eventually dies and I finish up pushing it onto the grass verge - with the help of the bloke behind me. So - next day and 2nd hand from Andy and 3 hours later I've an altenator fitted - but the red lights glowing. It's charging ok, but for how long. So I bought a new one but never fitted (since sold it) it as I inadvetantly bought the Midnight Purple Z I'm currently driving and sold the red one with the 2nd hand altenator. That's the story. Good luck Jack

Hey Pete - I used to have one of the original 95s with the V4 engine and freewheel - 1973 (SGO 29L) I seem to recall. Great car. Have a look on the Saab owners club - some interesting stuff for sale - the old 9000 is a lot of car for the money and it'll have a larger load space (with back seats down). Good luck Jack

I've a midnight purple 97 na - and I'm afraid you are right, it's a wonderful colour - I bought mine because of the colour. I use it every day and feel guilty as it should really be preserved - shame to get it covered in stone chips - but hey, life's too short to get precious. Good luck Jack

Defiantely altenator - same happened to me. If you can, buy new as they are a bugger to change and a 2nd hand one may have the same problem - again I speak from experience. Good luck Jack

...just one other thing, make sure that the bolts holding the starter motor in place are tight. Good luck Jack

I've had the same when the battery was beginning to fail. Charge it up, see if it solves the problem. If the battery is old then replace it, If it's not old then suspect the altenator. Good luck Jack

removing the aivs did nothing to affect my 91 auto - you have of course to blank-off the exhaust intakes, and from memory the small diameter pipe at the balance bar. good luck jack

Warped disks are more common on Autos than Manuals. With Autos you brake hard, heat the disks and when you come to a stop you keep the pedal pressed. The pads hold the hot disks and it cools at different rates and the disk warps. So, if it's an Auto, don't hold the brakes hard once you've slowed down. From my experience, warped disks will show when you are braking slowly at really slow speeds - you'll feel the disk vibrating on the brake pedal. Front tie rod bushes if original are silicone filled and crack and the silicone leaks - get under the car and have a look. Replacements are either Poly (easy to fit and cheap) original bushes from MJP (about £50 each and tough to fit) replacement arms inc bushes (about £110 each, easy to fit) or rose jointed variants - not sure of price. Personally I'd buy the original bushes from MJP. And while you are at it, the caliper repair kit from MJP is easy to fit and you'll need some new brake fluid too. Braided hoses are the best upgrade for the money. Start with what's easy - tie rod ends as these will need replacing whatever state your brakes are in. Then if it still vibrates (and at low speeds) then it's disks. Good luck Jack