Jack

Dave - I hadn't spotted that - is that to get aditional links to raise his site's ranking on the search engines?

...they used to say (most likly still do) that comercials are the best insight into our society - the quickest way to gain an overall picture of how the UK is thinking and behaving. ...how old are you - it might be an age realted experience you are having - turning into a grumpy old man? Good luck Jack

I think I've got one of those boxes/switches. You can have it if you want. I've also got the connectors for it. But, the problem is, none of it matches the wiring loom of your car. I tried to install it into my car but gave up as it's far too complicated.

Andy Change the plugs - or at least check their condition. Use the platinum variants. Then chnge the oil in the auto box - MJP will sell you the right stuff - with a filter. After that it's weight reduction I'm afraid. I would have thought that the later ECU (assuming it's standard) would be better for the car - 32 bit processor, thinks quicker. Good luck Jack

...Sounds like it's time for a change - buy this for your dad http://www.naZ4sale.co.uk How old is he? Time for a mid life crisis? And when something's wrong with your Z, you can nick bits off him... Good luck Jack

siezed engine? Put it in 1st gear and get you and your dad to push it. If you can, then it's not siezed. Good luck Jack

If you dip the clutch, the prop's still spinning as it's permanently connected to the back wheels... All that's happening is there's no power (torque) being transmitted through the prop when you seperate the engine from the back wheels bu dipping the clutch. So, following this (shaky) logic, the noise is coming from any of the joints in the prop. Looks like Andy's right. Good luck Jack

100,000 miles - no worries. Good luck Jack

Sorry to hear of the demise of your Z - I'm sure the recycling opportunity will be well recieved amongst the locals. Don't forget to post a few pics when you can. And if you want one that works when you get back into the UK, give me a shout. Cheerz Jack

The wiring is relatively easy. Remove the surround around the ashtray ie the whole fascia and surround around the gearlever. Find the big feed to the cigarete lighter, witre this to 2 new switches that will need cutting into the fascia then run cables under the carprt from the seat wires. It dosn't matter which you connect to as you'll need to connect a return wire on the other seat wire to take the electricity back to earth. Do the same with the drivers seat back wires, but have these connected to the seat feed/return so that they come on at the same time as the seat squab. So, flick a switch and you have heated seats. I did this after sourcing a pair of heated seaats from a breakers yard - and from memory (since sold the car) they don'tt get too hot if left switched on - I presume there's a thermostat in there somewhere. Good luck Jack

Andy ...when the problem's sorted, let us know what was done. Always usefull to know for future reference. Good luck Jack

Do your heated seats work? There should be a pair of switches in the centre console, after the ashtray that controls the heating elements. If they don't work, you need to ask yourself why they have been disconnected. If it's because the original switches don't work any more, you can run a feed from the cigarette lighter via a pair of new switches to get the heating elements to work. I believe that the drivers has a seat and backrest element ie 4 wires and the passengers seat only has a seat element ie 2 wires. Good luck Jack

...clogged air filters. If you want, I've a 95na manual and a 97 na manual that you can try. I'm in Ipswich. I had a 91 na auto before these two, and yes the drives different, but not that different. The 97 na's been dynoed at 200bhp at the wheels. Good luck Jack

Chris ...sounds like you've got a few problems there (to put it mildly). It's not an easy solution, but the only thing that blocks the flow (assuming it's not mud) is the thermostat. If you remove this then the waterpump should shove the water around un-restricted. If there is a blockage that is air, then maybe this will flush it out. Problem is, removing the thermostat is a difficult job. ...can't think of anything else to suggest, apart from that you might be looking for an innapropriate solution as what you describe could be attributed to a blocked thermostat - you get the same effect if the coolant freezes and top of the engine isn't getting cooled. Had it once in an old Saab.. Good luck Jack

Chris ...lets hope it's not this, but my son had the same on a Rover - water full, engine gets hot, warped head/knackered head gasket warps and presurises the water system and pumps all of the water out through the rad cap. Ok when cold, disaster when hot. I've had a water pump on a Z go and I've nursed it back from southern France by keeping an eye on the guage and stopping and topping up every time the temp needle went above the normal level mark. No damage, and repaired co a new water pump. Good luck Jack.

Taff - do you think the Redline MT90 had anything to do with the current problems? I ask as I've read somewhere that it puts extra stress on the syncros. I was going to use it as I'd also heard good things - but didn't in the end. I opted for Millers. Let me know what you think. Cheerz Jack

Pesimists view ...it'll be a complete liability. Think of a price then double it and get them to pay you to take it away. And when you've spent double what they paid you, and it's just about ok and you want to sell, it'll be worth nothing. Optimists view ...wow, got a Ztt for £500. Whoo Hoo... loads a fun. Good luck Jack

...could be a cracked head. Crack only opens when the head is warm. ...warped head, warp increases as head warms. ...from experience, it's mainly steam that you get out of the back. And if it was either of these, would the turbos pressurise either the oil or water systems? Excessive oil smoke used to be warn valve guides or valve seals. I'm out of date with this info as my last turbo car was 7 years ago, but I've run turbocharged cars for many years prior. Good luck Jack

Dave ...the air con on my 95 NA - the one for sale - will be the same as yours. It all works, so if you want me to check things against what you have, to try and trace the fault, just let me know. 5 mins on a mobile phone might just do it. Good luck Jack

Hey Gaz - it will have been me. First time I've been seen in 7 years... Can't interest you in a very clean 95na can I? If you know of anyone who might be interested, give me a shout. It's got to go (read cheap). Real shame as it's a nice car just sat in my garge under dust sheets. I'll keep a look-out for you some time as I don'tt think I've ever seen your Z. Cheerz Jack

...if it's a knackered cat, someone on here was selling a pair for £30 recently - total bargain! Have a look in the for sale section. Good luck Jack

look closely, there's often a dab of white paint on both ends and sometimes the flanges that bolt together are scored before they are seperated. You are supposed to do the flanges that bolt to the diff as well (I seem to recall). Good luck Jack

Dave - I've done the job a few times, you are knackered by the time you get the car up on 4 axle stands - high enough to work under. Then you are knackered by the time you've removed the exhaust (you can seperate it from the cats and work around it) an then the prop itself weighs a ton, then you have to do it all again when you replace the centre bearing spacers as washers, then again when you haven't marked the prop before seperating it and it's out of balance, then again when you've damaged the gearbox rear seal. ...here's a few clues (from experience) for your Evo guys... Good luck Jack

Great back yard pic.

...colleague of mine saw it too, petrol station Shell, oposite the hospital. Another saw it on the A14 heading Felixstowe way. Can't say I've ever seen it and I've always though I'd an eagle eye when it comes to Z's. Mines purple by the way, gets used daily, covers over 15k miles a year and no one has ever seen it... Cheerz Jack