jaffa

i think they're around 17-18lbs without tyres

I'll be going to the June 17th one in Silverstone

91 J reg here :)

what base / peak psi will these allow?

have you had it balanced here? Jacking by the diff should cause any problems.

could be up for this :)

you might be detting :( have a search for that and how it can be identified / fixed

same on my old LWB, sometimes it would idle realy high, other times it was fine. Switching TPS fixed it

count me in too

disconnect the coilpacks 1 at a time while it's running to identify which cylinders are not firing first. Then you can try swapping coilpacks, sparkplugs etc to see what the cause is. Has to be spark, fuel or compression at the end of the day.

lol, I'm not too worried about the peak numbers though over 500rwhp would be nice. I just like the area under the curve, good spool up and top end to give a nice wide powerband.

1) You'll be wanting bigger than 555's to use the full potential of the turbo's, either 740's and the newer style lower plenum, or the border 850 kit 2) Manifolds, I've gone for Greg Dupree Inconel ones as I wanted to keep my AC. You can also go for pentroof manifolds but will have to lose your A/c or rework it. 3) Stock conrods are supposed to be very strong, I changed them anyway as forged ones are lighter.

the JWT 700BB are getting to high 600's RWBHP in the states on race gas with supporting mods (manifolds, cams etc). They are a bit laggy (even with manifolds) and are based on the GT28RS "disco potato" turbo. These turbo's are also available with the smaller exhaust housing (0.64) that let's them spool much quicker with similar top end performance. In this trim they're similar to the HKS GT2530 turbos (but more efficient) - this is what I've gone for. If you do want these turbo's you'll need to get the supporting mods to go with it - bigger injectors, intercoolers etc and seriously consider getting a rebuild with forged internals.

As JD says you'll want to use averaging. I have mine on ADD as I have a non dual pop ECU.

I've done it, fairly easy to do. I'm at work at the moment but I found a wiring diagram on tt.net. If you don't find it PM me and I'll have a look at home. You need some shielded wire for the signal ( i got some from maplin) and you need to run it from the ECU to the MAF, rest of the wires you can piggy back off the original harness. Guess you have an ecu for dual pop so you'll need to set the AFC to averaging and off you go!

what were the results ( dry & wet)?

If you do any amount of night time driving then it's worth it, period. People probably spend nearly as much to get their headlight housings chromed! All I need to do now is the full beam mod when I get time.

have you spoken to John D about it?

usually go to Carmarthen, but had to go to a funeral in Cardigan this time

and following a trip to B&Q today, this is what happens to the rear ride hight when you put 8 bags of gravel and a bag of compost in the boot :)

did a round trip back to West Wales yesterday, Zed was cleaned in the week, but 490 miles later ... eww, look at the salt :eek: then after a good wash & polish this morning and a quick picture of the momo handbrake fitted

what size piping are you using Mike?

I have Toyo T1S's and I'm very happy with both wet & dry performance, other's rave about the Goodyear F1's

Yup, make a nice difference to the handling, and not much (if any ) noisier then the poly bushes i had in the LWB.

please clarify, did it happen before the BOV's were fitted, and is it still happening now you fixed the air leak.