SMW1

if it's just the fan you removed and not the pulley I don't think it has to line up with anything, but I'm not 100% so best wait for more replies.

Well I'm hoping this is a teething problem rather than the worst case senario. As you know I'm currently running the car in after an upgraded engine build. I drove the car for about 2 - 3 miles at low speed probably 40 mph max when I noticed the car was starting to overheat (i.e. 3/4 on the temp gauge). So I pulled into Tesco car park to investigate. I suspected an air lock as the fan was still running. I put the heater on max and it was coming out very hot so I left it on to take some heat out of the engine. I monitored the temp gauge and it started to drop a little so I thought it would be ok to turn the engine off and let it cool before checking the water level. After turning the engine off I started to hear a hissing from the back of the engine. The hissing grew louder and steam started to appear. The steam turned into a big cloud and then water started literally pouring out of the car from underneath. because of the amount of steam I could not get close enough to try and see where it was coming from, but by looking at it it looked as though it was the drivers side at the back of the engine. I left the car to cool down for 45 mins and then filled her up with 2 liters of water (she still had plenty of room for more). Started her up and got her home (1/2 mile distance if that). Temp gauge seemed ok, not getting too hot, but then when I turned the engine off again I could here hissing from the same place. It was getting dark so I left it until morning. In the morning the radiator took another 3.5 liters of water. Where it had been raining there was also a rainbow effect on the driveway under the engine maybe some oil as well. So I checked the oil and it's dry as a bone. So what should I look for and what tests can I do. I've already spoken to someone about this who thinks it's either heater matrix feed or driver side turbo feed. As a side note, the most boost I have run so far is 0.30 psi as I'm never going over 3k rpm. I have electric fan and did have before the engine build, which actually runs cooler on my car than a viscous. I have three things I'm thinking it may be at the moment. 1) Heater matrix pipe - but then I was still getting hot air form the heater, 2) Turbo water pipe (drivers side), 3) head gasket failure (I really hope it's not this - but was concerned about the dry dip stick and the oil on the driveway). Any input would be great.

Great news Gumball. So for all others reading this that is having the same sort of problem. Just do everything you an possibly think of until you come to the point where there is nothing left to chaeck and you would have sorted your problem :)

Not checked the link you posted, but sure grip sounds like something a lonley man would use on his hands !

They are naturally curved anyway, if they got bent they would grind against the housing, the spindle would then become loose and you would be chewing up your blades.

no sorry but I get my cat verheating light come on and off like it's shorting out, I'm not worried, I don't have any cats.

Do you have it on a switch. At the moment I just plug the power into a constant live before I drive. I'm thinking of wiring it into an ignition live rather than getting a switch that you need to plum into your water works so it picks up the temp and tells the fan to come on. What's the harm in having the fan on constantly while the engines running as opposed to just when it gets hot ?

If it's crumbled that means it's been getting pretty hot, my guess is that who ever put that loop in there was getting through a lot of fuses for some reason, If fuses were blowing, then I would think you have an exposed wire somewhere up the harness.

I think I jinx'd myself by voting never had to top it up. I just lost the lot of it in tesco car park once I turned the ignition off. Not sure what the cause is yet, but it's looking lik e a hose to drivers side turbo or heater matrix, Can't see that much water coming out of the head gasket if it only did it once the engine was off.

Nice post you found there. If you still can't find any of the bits I mentioned, look at this thread, that we did about 5 years ago. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=26120

Ok to try and make sense of it all. You can take the heads off with the engine in. However it would actually be quicker and easier if you took the engine out. That way you have much better access to the bolts you need to get to and much more space to work in, plus you can check / change other things while the engines out.

Try testing the connections on the CAS, TPS and make sure the PTU is correctly connected. Also give the Idle control Value a clean after you have cleaned the throttle bodies. The problem with these cars is that one dodgy signal form a sensor can apeear in a number of different ways. If you do that lot and still have no luck then see if someone near you has a conzult they can plug in to see if they can find any faults.

Positive Crankcase Ventilation

I won't lie to you, I prefer driving my BMW at the moment over my Z. I have a 525se i, it's leather, comfortable, moves when you put your foot down, never fails on me, cheaper on petrol, more room for the little one, much safer with Airbags and Side impact bars all over the place, more room in the boot and easier to drive. But then I'm limited to 3krpm at the moment on my Zed until it's fully run in :).

Update. Now that all the little problems are sorted I tried what you suggested with teh boot release and the headlight buttons but didn't have any effect. I'm not one for lots of keys etc on my key ring and I have the master remote on there as well as the companion remote. So thinking back I'm sure I could only activate the turbo timer/shutdown mode by pressing a combination on the master. I'll keep digging.

Payment resent. Thanks

It's outstanding. I know you don't like PM's but can you check the one I sent you and reply back if it's incorrect. I will resend on reply. Thanks

asbestos hamsters, now that brings back memories...

Payment sent to paypal as per conversation (£15.60).

Thanks Darrell, I'll check with them as well as MJP.

Yeah I have no problem with the deposit of £15. I'm just wondering if I can't make it because the car is not run in or blows up. Will I still have to pay the full rice I.e. the other £20 ?.

I have more than enough tools including a vice so hopefully I should be ok. I'll check with Mike. Thanks mate, I'm gonna rebuild them as well either way as I can't help that feel after 3 yeas with no use they will be a little ceased if not totally. I'll get a set of DS2500 anyway as the portfields seem to have a little more squeal than most pads and I can't stand brake squeal. Nice one thanks mate, do you also have the R33 set up or are your calipers standard ?

Excellent. I can;t let the wife see this thread, I know she wants one.

Thanks Chris :)

After having the Zed off the road for 3 years. I don't remember the brakes being that lame. I want to do a full rebuild of my calipers as I supect that after 3 years of not being used they have got themselves into a sticky situation. Any links to rebuild kits and some instructions on how to do it ? Many thanks.