SMW1

Sounds familiar :). You won't be disapointed. What cooling mods do you have ?.

Wouldn't disconnecting the PTU and cranking for 30 seconds fill the cylinders with fuel and risk flooding the engine ? Do people really go through all this lot just to change the oil ?.. It seems like we are making suck a simple task into something very long winded. I know when I change the oil I simply, unbolt, unscrew, drain, bolt up, screw on and fill.

I've amended the post to include the dip stick and warming of the car. The other bits you mentioned are I suppose open to debate. I know it's good practice to replace the washer each time, but isn't really necessary. I've done about 15 oil changes on mine since I;ve had it and only used about 5 washers. Not sure of the relevance of 2/3's of the oil and then start the car ?. Can you elaborate on this one ?

I recently left Virgin active gym, that was in may as well 12th if I remember correctly. I had to Pay May and June before I cancelled my direct debit. It's in the terms and conditions so unfortunately there's no way around it without a medical note form your doctor that should have been provided at the time of cancellation. May as well pay the £50 or what ever they are charging you.

Forgot to ask, I asummed it was a TT rather than an NA, so te 3.4 litres of oil if for a TT. Not sure if it's different for an NA.

Spacers or loose wheel nuts are a common problem for bolt shearing, do you have wheel spacers ? if so you may need the longer bolts that nismo make.

Before you start it is recommended that the car is warm to allow the oil to drain easier. 1) either jack the car up or drive the car up onto a set of blocks / ramps 2) open the bonnet and remove the oil filler cap and dip stick. 3) get yourself an oil pan, a 14mm or 17mm socket (Can never remember which one it is) and chain wrench or other oil filter removal tool. 4) get under the car with all items in no. 3 5) place the oil can under the sump nut and unscrew it. 6) Once all the flow of oil has slowed use the chain wrench to remove the oil filter located next to the sump. 7) Once all that oil has drained rub a little oil around the rubber rings of the new oil filter and screw into place. 8) replace the sump nut and if you have it the bronze washer (new one required every 2 - 3 oil changes). 9) The engine will now be waiting for 3.4 litres of engine oil. 10) work out how much 3.4 litres is from your fresh oil and either use a funnel or roll up a piece of magazine (front/back cover is better) into a cone and pour away, leave a small gap around the edge of the funnel and the engine hole to increase flow (i.e. oil in air out). 11) Once it's all done, give her a good wipe down. 12) Start the engine and let the oil circulate for a couple of mins, good time to check for leaks form the filter or sump nut. 13) if all is well, turn the engine off and lower the car, removing axle stands and chocks. 14) Test the oil level via the dip stick (should not need any topping up at this stage, but make a note of where the level is so you can compare it in a months time.) Hope that helps.

Actually thinking about it Andy I may well take you up on that Offer. I want to make sure they are really clean before being put back together and I think if you want something done right you have to do it yourself. I'll take the calipers off, drain them overnight, clean them up and put them in a bag, head up to yours, pop the pistons, wrap em up, put em back in a bag, buy you a beer, then head back down again :). I probably won't do this until sometime in early August, but I'll give you a shout nearer the time to see when you are available.

I was looking for the slut disctrict :). LOL, . I'm currently working over by the inland revenue building at the Abbey Offices.

It's a tad quiet at work today so I've spent a few hours looking at various sites and trawling through search engines. I find a site associated to what I want. Find bits and pieces that I want to buy (only small bits, nothing major). Add them to my shopping basket. Carry on shopping adding other bits to it that I want to buy. After looking through pretty much every product they have, I click on checkout. Then I decide that I shoudln't really be spending any more money unless it's absolutely necessary so I shut the window down. 20 mins later I'm on another site doing the exact same bloody thing !!! Am I alone or do others do this frequently as well ?

James bond eat your heart out :)

Interested - subject to date.

I know this reply was directed at Darrell but I work just down the road at Euston Station

I'm gonna have to move quick though, He gets real busy towards the end of race season.

I'll have to rig up the conzult to see if it's reading the same temp as my dial. The dial could be wrong or not earthed enough. Before I earthed the sensor out correctly I was reading 205 F as a stanard, now that's dropped to 175F which is 79 C I think I got the fan from either CPZ or Z1, can't remember. Maybe I'll have a look at replacing it with one that actually comes with an on / off switch.

Cheers for the offer Andy, I thnk I may just give CTM a ring and see if they rebuild calipers :). Anything that saves me time these days without cutting corners is bang on the money. So much to do, so little time.

What year is your car ?. I didn;t think the 300zx qualified for an emmisions test ? Pull a vaccum pipe off the back right of the plenum this should reduce your emmissions a little (or so I've been told).

My car seems to heat up real quick I'm runnning at 79 on normal usuage or anywhere upto 94 on really hot days / heavy usage.

Is this 02:30 in the morning ? Wasn't me, but just wondering do you work around there ?

Get yourself on Zclub. They have a member there that can do valuations for you.

I've just ordered my caliper rebuild kit for my R33 GTR Brembo's. I've seen a few great write up's on how to rebuild these, but I'm hoping someone has personal experience in doing this so they can giveme some tips. Will I be able to do this myself without a compressor ?

I wedge mine under my rear strut bar. Those fookers aint going nowhere :)

No you don't need bags, but the are reccommended to prevent scrathing and damage to the targa's. the straps are secured at one point and hooked ove at the other point. I don't have apicture to show you though.

you should have a screw on it somewhere, get the car to the temp you want it to come on at and turn it until it clicks on or off.

The inline fuel pressure of a standard Z (or modded Z with standard fuel pump) shuld be 45 psi. So anything over 100 psi shoudl be fine. Danny, What are your Hoses rated at and can you letme knwo the price. Thanks