markstevens

When Nissan build these boxes they last, on average say 80k miles? Some lots more. When some second rate rebuilder gets his hands on one, does a so called rebuild, and it lasts less then 20k mles. Something is wrong. And I would say the rebuilder either doesnt know his stuff, or he simply repairs the bits he can get away with and charges big bucks for a full rebuild. A proper rebuild/overhaul should simply be as good as new, or if the guy knows his boxes, better than new. Ie 100k miles and 10+ years..

mistake, as in didnt mean to post here

Sounds like it had it, top gear (third) has a weak clutch.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

No. :-)

No. Apexi are the best, no argument from most on here either.

There was a survey on this de-cat smoke/no smoke thing. Maybe its time for another one, especially as I need to get rid of my cats but dont want the smoke thing, also, how much more noise does it make? (the exhaust). IIRC the outcome was most did not have any problems.

IMHO, with oils as good as they now are, and have been for many years now, and assuming a reasonable level of servicing, if not as per the book, there really should not be any great build up of deposits inside your engine. Sure there will be a "dirty residue" but not great amounts of Goo as you used to find. So the problem of cleaning the engine and then having problems should not arise, and if it does, your problems were just round the corner anyway. As I said, IMHO.

But, IIRC the odo/trip are mechanical, so I think this suggests someone has been "at it" inside.

I used to make the mistake of underestimating just how important oil is. (Years ago) Simply put, I would not drive the car with old dirty oil that I had no idea about. Ever.

I have just done my cam belt and pump, took me about 1 hour to get to the pump. hope this helps. Good luck.

I cut a straight line in the middle of the pad away from the center/wheel bearing direction. Or, in other words a straight line over the shortest distance of the pad. A 4" angle grinder works well. Mind the dust.

If the steering wheel shakes, its the fronts, car shakes, its the rears.

Yes, it is all they do, and based in Aylesbury, Bucks.

Thanks. :-)...just read the instructions and it says the stat should be fitted to the block and not ideal for hose fitting... So, I know in theory this is the same temp but is it? what do you think, should I go for a more usual hose sensing type?

Hi, I am fitting an electric engine cooling fan and can get a preset thermostat, but I dont know what temp to ask for. So what is the normal running temp of our engines. TT.

Regardless of the pads make, if it dosnt already have it, use a grinder and put a nice slice through the middle, they resist fade better.

Ken at STA. 01296 481145...

I may have some brackets available soon to move your existing calipers out to suit R33 GTR discs. PM me if you interested..

Had a look but cant see a date, so when is it? If my car is running I would like to come.

My car is not ready yet, and so I cant commit. Sorry.

Not sure if this works as I am not sure with this part, but on a front wheel with the same prob I use a jack under the track rod to force it in and do it up then. Hope this is not rubbish

All depends on the aspect ratio of the tyre.

Without trying to start a fight, :-). The line pressure will make no difference, IMHO, once first gear is engaged inside the box the clutch's are energised (for want of a better word) and thats that, apart from the converter there is now a direct link to the back axle with the engine. The clutch is either engaged properly or its slipping, there is no middle ground. A slipping clutch in an auto does not long at all. The fluid being low is also not going to cause this problem unless the car is falling out of gear, a result of loss of pressure due to low fluid. I still think, that everything else being equal its a converter fault, or he had a different/modified one before. I wonder are they different for N/A to TT? As I said, not looking or a fight.

If the torque converter is faulty this would cause a similar problem. Difficult to say from here but, and I am having to think back many years here, inside the converter there is a "stator" I think its called,and in the old days sometimes these would do something, and I can remember what, but that would stop the converter working properly. Sort of the opposite to a "High Stall" converter. (do a search on Google). Vague I know, but maybe it will point you in a direction that helps. And I had a 300tt Auto that would pull well from a standstill.