RobHowl

Yes it’s an import with a MPH conversion. Thanks Joel, I’ll have a look at that. I don’t think it’s the dash as it’s only the speedo that’s dropped out and it’s not lethargic it works every now and then. It’s totally gone. With my previous Nissans, I’ve always found that speedo goes but is intermittent due to the solders

Hi Dan, welcome

Happy birthday Rich!

Hi all, Was out in the car last week and my speedo stopped working. Not the whole cluster, purely the speedo. Everything else is working well. This then caused my steering to be heavy and HICAS light to come on, which I’ve been told happens when the speedo dies. Whats the likely problem here would you think? I would argue not the cluster itself but maybe a speed sensor?

Booked! I don’t think so, I’m sure there’s something else on he mentioned he’s doing that day

I’ll be there! I’ll book tickets tonight

I’ve only put about 1000 miles on the car this year due mainly to the vibration I’ve noticed that felt like it was from the rear as the steering was fine and I could feel it through my chair. I sought the help of Nispro (who did my injector replacement) and had all 4 wheel bearing replaced. The front passenger one was absolutely horrendous and sounded like someone crushing gravel! It’s definitely helped and is much quieter in the road now but there is still a vibration from the rear so believe the prop shaft carrier bearing does indeed need replacing as well! I’ll try and get that resolved in the new year when I’ve saved up a few more pennies.

Installed a new gear gaiter, handbrake gaiter and 3D printed cup holder! I’m so excited to try out the cup holder! Nice and straight forward for the gaiters, just taking off then middle trim pieces, just a few screws and fitting the new leather eBay special ones. They got nice red stitching like my gear knob now and replace the really tired old ones. The cup holder I bought from a forum member, Peage, who makes them and sells them on Etsy and it replaces the ash tray. its excellent quality and came with detailed instructions but it’s just a case of cutting away some of the old bits and it slots right in to place. The USB is plugged in to the ciggy lighter and has an on/off switch and cover and was very easy to do, even the connectors were supplied!

Sounds delightful! What MX5 do you have? Before I had my 300ZX I had an NA that I sold to my dad and still get to work on. Quite a rare one. Lovely car. This is definitely going on the ‘to do’ list for the winter. Might use it on some of the other underside bits that need some love too

That’s a really good idea actually. Did you drop the tank or do it in situ?

Passed its MOT! A couple of advisories around the brake lines being covered in gunk but not any issues and general corrosion underneath. I have given it a coat of Lanoguard underneath, cost about £75 for a do it at home kit. Pretty easy to do really, the kit was good and came with loads. I only used about a quarter of it so can do another quote after winter as well. Also had a special grease to go on the more vulnerable areas.

LWB, manual, TT mate. How much for the prop shaft? Good to know about the bearings. It’s going in the garage next month so will let you know if that’s the problem. how much noisier are they?

Hi all, my prop shaft bearings are going (possibly) and I thought I’d look at changing to a single piece as I’ve heard it’s an upgrade as they are lighter. anyone know anything about them? Where I could get one? Are they an upgrade or am I wasting my limited squids?

Passed the MOT! Inspector said it’s really good for it’s age, better than some of the newer cars he had today 👍 Also had a go with Lanoguard yesterday to give it some TLC. Very easy to do, smells like horse.

That’s interesting Joely, what’s the solution? Doable in my garage with my time, basic tools and very basic mechanical know how?? 😂

The only stuff I had done that could have caused an issue was the inner and outer Hicas ball joints. its going back to the garage in November (they’re moving premises at the moment) for them to have a look at it. I was wondering about the prop shaft bearings as for all the time I’ve had the car, when I pull away or change down to 1st or 2nd, the car rattles at about 1200rpm. Just briefly but I always wondered what it was. Didn’t seem to cause any issues but maybe related?

Not massively impressed with the titanium key. Seems to have scratched very easily and quickly, plus it’s started to flex. Admittedly it was a tight fit in my door lock (cut from a photo) which meant some resistance when I turned it but I didn’t expect it to actually bend! Since it came back from the garage in March it’s had road noise and vibrations through the seat at 50-60mph. I've had the wheels balanced and it hasn’t solved the problem. It seems to be worse when I first start driving the car and as it warms up it lessens but is very pronounced certainly at first.

1993 LWB TT in Black is a blog I’ve been doing on the forum with all my stuff I’ve done over the last 18 months!!

Hi Denis, nice to meet you mate, car looks nice. What mods have you been doing?

Today I got hold of this rather tidy steering wheel. Mine is flaking and in a sorry state and needs recovering. I nearly tore RichardS’s arm off when he said he was selling his old (refurbed) one! Not fitted it yet but will soon, thanks Rich

Why would that have just started do you think mate? Anyway I can find out for sure?

Mine has been in garage for wheel balancing as had vibration (felt from rear) at 50-60mph and a lot of road noise. Three needed doing, one was quite bad apparently and the road noise is much better but still getting vibration.

Still attending if anyone’s about. Four turned up last year

When I got the car, I only had the valet key. So I bought a new black master key from Amayama (£12) and really wanted the titanium one. Found a company in the states that make replica’s and can cut them from a photo. 😬 Wasnt sure about this but someone else on the forum used them without issue. It arrived today, looks the business, and does work on the car. It’s a little stiff in the drivers door lock but will hopefully losses up a bit. Cost £76 all in for cutting and shipping so thought it was worth a go! if you’ve got the key code then they can do it from that

Got on the interior last week and fitted my ZSpec double din stereo fascia to replace the butchered one that was already in it. Turned out to be a bit of a ballache of a job in the end, only because it was difficult setting my JVC stereo up at the correct height etc. Anyway, so the kit I bought was really good, really well packaged with crystal clear instruction cards written for dummies (fortunately for me). It came with its own mounts for the stereo too and is mainly setup for Kenwood or Pioneer as they seem to be the top main brands in the states. I ended up test fitting a number of times and having to modify the mounting brackets to get it to fit but the difference it makes in the car is really noticeable. Sounds weird as the single din fascia isn’t all that different (after butchery) but having a proper setup it streaks ahead. The stereo also sits at more of a 90 degree angle than the old one as well, so I get a lot less glare on the screen now.