I was searching for about 6 months before I found this Z32 for sale. Doesn’t have any written history with it but it was imported around 2004 as shown registered in January 2005. It’s only had 3 previous keepers.

It’s LWB, Twin Turbo, manual targa too currently showing 93,000 miles roughly but apparently the first 70k is actually KM and the last 20k in miles so approximately 63k miles although I can’t verify this.

The previous owner to me had the car about 3 years and had the sills and arches replaced due to rust and then had it resprayed in a Mercedes Black. It was originally black anyway. The car has some Brembo brakes off an Evo 8 on the front and a large wing on the back.

Interior is standard grey velour and is in really good condition, has a few interior pieces that have cracked but everything works! Has a double din radio installed with car play which is cool but the fascia is a single din that’s been ‘modified’ for it to fit. I’ll need to get a proper double din one at some point.

Engine is stock, although it has a Mishimoto radiator and an open cam cover so has obviously had some work done at some point. Also has some aftermarket HID’s I believe.

The wheels are Axe, I don’t know the model, but are 18” and 8.5j all round.

It has a very light oil leak but runs and drives really nicely, no crunching in the gearbox and pulls nicely.

Initial Plans

As I don’t have any history with it, it’s going to Jimmer for a full service, new belts, new gearbox oil, diff oil, filters, the works. If anything else needs doing then I’ll loook at that. Probably a rear main seal too but I’ll wait and see what Jimmer says. That’s happening at the beginning of May.

I’m having the brakes changed to R33 Skyline callipers as the current setup means it’s hard to find new wheels to fit.

On to wheels, I’m choosing a new set soon to replace the current ones as they are in poor condition!

Im planning on ordering a new wing and some other bits from Z1 and will get them fitted by a bodyshop.

I’ve got a set of 99 rear lights and centre panel read to be installed, bought from Z Centre, which will look great. Just need to get round to fitting them.

Depending on how much money I’ve got left I’m planning on taking it to get the underside stripped back, rust treated and under sealed to give it some protection.

 

 

The long term plans for the car are about keeping it relatively stock with a few nice upgrades, OEM+ If you like. I’d like to redo the interior with Alcantara.

I might look at upping the power in the future as well but probably no more than 400bhp as I want to keep this as a nice cruiser for weekends and to take to some shows.

It’ll live in my garage and probably be mainly a summer car!

Looks much better after that clean 🙂. I find autoglym engine and machine cleaner to be great for this job. 

Nice work Rob.....👍

I do this every so often and it really is pleasing to do and see it afterwards....bit of music, toothbrush, the hours just disappear!

Got on the interior last week and fitted my ZSpec double din stereo fascia to replace the butchered one that was already in it.

Turned out to be a bit of a ballache of a job in the end, only because it was difficult setting my JVC stereo up at the correct height etc.

Anyway, so the kit I bought was really good, really well packaged with crystal clear instruction cards written for dummies (fortunately for me). It came with its own mounts for the stereo too and is mainly setup for Kenwood or Pioneer as they seem to be the top main brands in the states.

I ended up test fitting a number of times and having to modify the mounting brackets to get it to fit but the difference it makes in the car is really noticeable. Sounds weird as the single din fascia isn’t all that different (after butchery) but having a proper setup it streaks ahead. 

The stereo also sits at more of a 90 degree angle than the old one as well, so I get a lot less glare on the screen now.

When I got the car, I only had the valet key. So I bought a new black master key from Amayama (£12) and really wanted the titanium one.

Found a company in the states that make replica’s and can cut them from a photo. 😬

Wasnt sure about this but someone else on the forum used them without issue.

It arrived today, looks the business, and does work on the car. It’s a little stiff in the drivers door lock but will hopefully losses up a bit.

Cost £76 all in for cutting and shipping so thought it was worth a go!

if you’ve got the key code then they can do it from that

Not massively impressed with the titanium key. Seems to have scratched very easily and quickly, plus it’s started to flex. Admittedly it was a tight fit in my door lock (cut from a photo) which meant some resistance when I turned it but I didn’t expect it to actually bend!

Since it came back from the garage in March it’s had road noise and vibrations through the seat at 50-60mph.

I've had the wheels balanced and it hasn’t solved the problem.

It seems to be worse when I first start driving the car and as it warms up it lessens but is very pronounced certainly at first.

On 19/09/2023 at 21:37, RobHowl said:

Not massively impressed with the titanium key. Seems to have scratched very easily and quickly, plus it’s started to flex. Admittedly it was a tight fit in my door lock (cut from a photo) which meant some resistance when I turned it but I didn’t expect it to actually bend!

Since it came back from the garage in March it’s had road noise and vibrations through the seat at 50-60mph.

I've had the wheels balanced and it hasn’t solved the problem.

It seems to be worse when I first start driving the car and as it warms up it lessens but is very pronounced certainly at first.

what work did you have done at the garage? Depending on what was distrubed it could be a few things: Propshaft bearing, quite common, Wheel bearing, not so common on our cars, but a possibility

The only stuff I had done that could have caused an issue was the inner and outer Hicas ball joints.

its going back to the garage in November (they’re moving premises at the moment) for them to have a look at it.

I was wondering about the prop shaft bearings as for all the time I’ve had the car, when I pull away or change down to 1st or 2nd, the car rattles at about 1200rpm. Just briefly but I always wondered what it was. Didn’t seem to cause any issues but maybe related?

It does sound like classic propshaft vibration symptom.

That’s interesting Joely, what’s the solution? Doable in my garage with my time, basic tools and very basic mechanical know how?? 😂

Passed its MOT! A couple of advisories around the brake lines being covered in gunk but not any issues and general corrosion underneath.

I have given it a coat of Lanoguard underneath, cost about £75 for a do it at home kit. Pretty easy to do really, the kit was good and came with loads. I only used about a quarter of it so can do another quote after winter as well. Also had a special grease to go on the more vulnerable areas.

4 hours ago, RobHowl said:

Passed its MOT! A couple of advisories around the brake lines being covered in gunk but not any issues and general corrosion underneath.

I have given it a coat of Lanoguard underneath, cost about £75 for a do it at home kit. Pretty easy to do really, the kit was good and came with loads. I only used about a quarter of it so can do another quote after winter as well. Also had a special grease to go on the more vulnerable areas.

Great news! Whilst it’s off the road for winter, I would loosen the fuel tank straps off and inspect where the straps hold the tank. Mine had surprise rust hiding there and was pretty bad, considering the rest of the tank was absolutely mint, not a spot of rust elsewhere. Took it back to bare metal and sorted it though thankfully. Think it happens there due to being a moisture trap. 

That’s a really good idea actually.

Did you drop the tank or do it in situ?

9 hours ago, RobHowl said:

That’s a really good idea actually.

Did you drop the tank or do it in situ?

Insitu - I unbolted the straps in front of the tank and let them hang down to the rear. I only did this as I knew rust was found and sorted to the top of the tank previously, so no need to drop it. 

Based on there being a chance of rust above the tank where it meets the boot floor and also under the straps, I would definitely remove the whole tank over winter and property take it all back to bare metal and refinish. Jimmer did say the tanks are super thick metal and I believe strengthened in case of rear end accidents, so shouldn’t be easy for it to rust through in theory, but better safe than sorry! 

Edited October 16, 20232 yr by Raja93

On 15/10/2023 at 14:10, Raja93 said:

Great news! Whilst it’s off the road for winter, I would loosen the fuel tank straps off and inspect where the straps hold the tank. Mine had surprise rust hiding there and was pretty bad, considering the rest of the tank was absolutely mint, not a spot of rust elsewhere. Took it back to bare metal and sorted it though thankfully. Think it happens there due to being a moisture trap. 

I was going to say the exact same thing....!!

Whilst the tanks are generally strong and thick, rusty straps and the occasional stony road grime can get under them - and cause them to wear a hole in the tank.

I had to replace the fuel tanks in both my first red Zed and my current blue one, due to that. The straps acted like a coarse file, rubbing through the tank!!

I use this stuff:

https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/kurust/

I wire brush all the rusty areas, get all the flakey bits off, then I paint it on, it chemically kills all rust and turns black. You can then paint over the top or stick a protector covering over it. Its a messy job, but well worth it and you know all the rust has been chemically killed before you go over it with a coating. I did the underneath of the MX5 last month, took me about 3 hours. It then took about 5 days for it to wash off my skin! 😄

Sounds delightful!

What MX5 do you have? Before I had my 300ZX I had an NA that I sold to my dad and still get to work on. Quite a rare one. Lovely car.

This is definitely going on the ‘to do’ list for the winter. Might use it on some of the other underside bits that need some love too

I wouldn't make a habit of posting pictures of your key online

I would be able to copy it & use it on your car with very little effort, of course I wouldn't want to do that.. but someone with bad intentions might

On 16/10/2023 at 21:59, RobHowl said:

Sounds delightful!

What MX5 do you have? Before I had my 300ZX I had an NA that I sold to my dad and still get to work on. Quite a rare one. Lovely car.

This is definitely going on the ‘to do’ list for the winter. Might use it on some of the other underside bits that need some love too

Before my zed I had a mk1 1.6L in white. Loved it to pieces, but sold it to get my first zed.

My dad bought a dark blue 1.8L mk2.5 (52 plate) about 8 years ago and always said he would leave it to me in his will. He rang me up at the start of the year and asked if I wanted it early because he had driven it for nearly 18 months. So I keep it and use it as much as possible. Its completely stock and has only done 60k miles. I love how they handle and with the 1.8L they are a bit quicker. I want to get a hardtop for it and then maybe look at an air filter, stainless exhaust, it needs a bit of welding on the sills, but its only just starting to show so I think Ive caught it early enough.

Installed a new gear gaiter, handbrake gaiter and 3D printed cup holder! I’m so excited to try out the cup holder!

Nice and straight forward for the gaiters, just taking off then middle trim pieces, just a few screws and fitting the new leather eBay special ones. They got nice red stitching like my gear knob now and replace the really tired old ones.

The cup holder I bought from a forum member, Peage, who makes them and sells them on Etsy and it replaces the ash tray.

its excellent quality and came with detailed instructions but it’s just a case of cutting away some of the old bits and it slots right in to place. The USB is plugged in to the ciggy lighter and has an on/off switch and cover and was very easy to do, even the connectors were supplied!

Always nice to see one installed!! Glad you got on well with the install and are pleased. I think that looks right at home in your Z 😄

I’ve only put about 1000 miles on the car this year due mainly to the vibration I’ve noticed that felt like it was from the rear as the steering was fine and I could feel it through my chair.

I sought the help of Nispro (who did my injector replacement) and had all 4 wheel bearing replaced. The front passenger one was absolutely horrendous and sounded like someone crushing gravel!

It’s definitely helped and is much quieter in the road now but there is still a vibration from the rear so believe the prop shaft carrier bearing does indeed need replacing as well! I’ll try and get that resolved in the new year when I’ve saved up a few more pennies.

On 06/11/2023 at 19:16, RobHowl said:

Installed a new gear gaiter, handbrake gaiter and 3D printed cup holder! I’m so excited to try out the cup holder!

Nice and straight forward for the gaiters, just taking off then middle trim pieces, just a few screws and fitting the new leather eBay special ones. They got nice red stitching like my gear knob now and replace the really tired old ones.

The cup holder I bought from a forum member, Peage, who makes them and sells them on Etsy and it replaces the ash tray.

its excellent quality and came with detailed instructions but it’s just a case of cutting away some of the old bits and it slots right in to place. The USB is plugged in to the ciggy lighter and has an on/off switch and cover and was very easy to do, even the connectors were supplied!

Very nice Rob - I like that a lot...!!!

 

Spent this morning trying to figure out the issue with the speedo!

Stripped the dash back, jacked the rear up, ran the car in gear with using a multimeter on the wire going in to the back of the speedo (yellow and green) and got no readings.

Tested the kph/mph converter as well but taking it out out the circuit but no difference so looks like it is the speed sensor itself or the cable!

Also, fitted new steering wheel (proper wheel but recovered and looking lovely!) and also fitted the new window seals.

Both a really easy job but make a big difference.

Well that didn’t go to plan!

After much messing about, I got the speed sensor out and checked it by putting it in a drill and spinning it (many thanks to Dan (Toomanyzeds) for all his advice and help!!) and the bloody thing works!

which is good news as it’s expensive to replace but bad news as I thought it was the problem and now I’m back to the beginning again!

I can only assume I ballsed up the test on the speedo. I don’t really know who to use an multimeter properly so probably a mistake there. Either that or the cables got a break in it somewhere!

I’ll start at the speedo again.