Well, as many may know, I have recently discovered that my lower radiator cross member has finally succumbed to the dreaded tin worm.

Hopefully, this is day one of my journey to successfully repairing it with a suitable replacement.

Wish me luck, I think I will need it.

 

So, today I started the dismantling of the front end, and within a couple of hours I had removed the front bumper etc'

This was done on the driveway, and I hope to complete the rest of the work in the garage, hopefully.

 

I have reached the point where I am unfamiliar with most of the critical items that now stand in my way, and would seriously appreciate some advice as to how I should proceed.

 

First question/concern that springs to mind is... Can I continue successfully with the car being in the garage?

The last thing I want to do is get half way through the strip down only to find that I do not have the correct access.

The car is drivable at the moment, but once I start taking various parts off she will become immobile.

 

Your help and advise would be very much appreciated.

 

Please see photo's attached...

Edited May 29, 20169 yr by redwine300

I've never had to but I can't say you won't. Depends if that line is a hicas line. Be worth tracing it.

Thanks Steven, I will get the manual out. :thumbup1::thumbup1:

Just a quick update, nothing much mind.

Prepared the joints for welding and positioned the support brace, I will tack it in to place tomorrow morning.

Didn't want to be worrying about burning the garage down during the night.

Hats off to you matey for doing this yourself

Weld that box section in, cut out the other one and put it all back together [emoji13]

Errrrmmmm, just my tuppence worth mate but I wouldn't weld that there.

Those legs won't move with the front subframe still in place,I personally would drill that angle iron and bolt across the front of the legs.

:ninja:

Hats off to you matey for doing this yourself

 

 

Cheers bud. :thumbup1::thumbup1:

Hopefully I will make some serious progress tomorrow.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Weld that box section in, cut out the other one and put it all back together [emoji13]

 

Simples. :lol:

Errrrmmmm, just my tuppence worth mate but I wouldn't weld that there.

Those legs won't move with the front subframe still in place,I personally would drill that angle iron and bolt across the front of the legs.

:ninja:

 

I agree with you Mantav8, but I am going to have to compromise I'm afraid.

Two reasons really,

1. I will have better access when welding, and 2. more importantly, I think it is a matter of bolting the stable door after the horse has bolted.

Looking at the existing crossmember, it looks as though it has collapsed inwards already due to its weakened structure.

If the crossmember has collapsed inwards how will you correctly fit the wider replacement if you have welded in the support bar?

If the crossmember has collapsed inwards how will you correctly fit the wider replacement if you have welded in the support bar?

 

Fair question Andrew,

 

I figure that welding in the support bar is just for damage limitation really, it may move even more, I just don't know.

Once the old piece is out, I will offer up the new one up and see just how much it has moved.

From there I guess I will have to spread the chassis rails somehow after first removing the support.

Started the long road of spot weld removal today, it's going to be a long night.

Can't wait to get the rusty thing out.

Well, after what seemed like an eternity, I managed to locate and drill out all the spot welds on the drivers side.

Even the hidden one that had to be drill from the other side.

Here's a couple of pictures just be for I removed the first half.

Some pictures of the offending item.

Well done Dave! When does the replacement turn up?

This is good work, nice to see someone tackle a job correctly :thumbup1:

Well done Dave! When does the replacement turn up?

 

Tomorrow! :hyper::dance:

This is good work, nice to see someone tackle a job correctly :thumbup1:

 

Thanks mate, appreciate your comments. :thumbup1:

And?-did the legs move?, looking good mate.

And?-did the legs move?, looking good mate.

 

No movement at all when I cut through the middle of the crossmember, thankfully.

Just hoping that there hadn't been any movement when the initial collapse happened.

I guess I'll know for sure when I offer up the new one.

New cross member arrived today! :hyper:

Admire your resolve, but if you had taken my advise of a repair in place it would have been done in one day and no hassle at less than your paying for the trouble of doing it the way you are, and after the repair it is actually stronger than the original, but hey ho good luck anyhow.

 

Jeff

Admire your resolve, but if you had taken my advise of a repair in place it would have been done in one day and no hassle at less than your paying for the trouble of doing it the way you are, and after the repair it is actually stronger than the original, but hey ho good luck anyhow.

 

Jeff

 

But let's face it, a complete new section is a better choice, i would rather spend a week repairing something properly to last the life of the car instead of a day repairing something to last a couple of years, and remember redwine isn't paying labour so it matters not how long it takes him. :thumbup1:

But let's face it, a complete new section is a better choice, i would rather spend a week repairing something properly to last the life of the car instead of a day repairing something to last a couple of years, and remember redwine isn't paying labour so it matters not how long it takes him. :thumbup1:

 

Yes very true, lets face it owning and maintaining a zed it is a labour of love rather than cost anyhow, but fair to say it is far from complete yet, Summer in the UK is short enough as it is without wasting any part of it, I do wish redwine 300 well for his venture into zed repair though.

 

Jeff

Yes very true, lets face it owning and maintaining a zed it is a labour of love rather than cost anyhow, but fair to say it is far from complete yet, Summer in the UK is short enough as it is without wasting any part of it, I do wish redwine 300 well for his venture into zed repair though.

 

Jeff

 

Very true, I know a lot of bodyshops that would shy away from this job just because it's a "300zx".

 

I think redwine deserves much respect for doing this himself and making such a good job of it, it will make a great repair thread for future jobs like this, let's face it how many other Zeds have this exact problem lurking underneath??

Thanks guys, I do appreciate your thoughts and encouraging words, especially after tonight's escapades.

I thought the first side was challenging, but it was nothing compared to this side.

Why change the number and position of the spot welds? not to mention the hidden ones.

Anyway, after several hours attacking the little blighters, I then discovered that the bolts attaching the damn thing to the tie rod bracket were just spinning, the fixed nuts had rotted though and yet somehow were still retaining the thing.

Still it's off now and thankfully the chassis side of things seem to have stood up well.

Edited June 13, 20169 yr by redwine300