So its finally happening after been off the road for well over a year the zed is on Target for its refurbishment.

 

Last year I started with doing all the underbody suspension stuff to make the ride more stable and after that

I decided I wanted to do a full strip down to the bare shell and start from scratch to create a show quality z32.

 

After much bad luck and many thousands of pounds wasted on rotted zeds i'm cracking on with the original plan.

 

So as a quick update i'll post some older picks followed over the next few weeks by an overall progress report.

 

Starting off with how she was when I first purchased her 3 years ago until the state she is now then showing the

strip down and all the bad luck I've had.

 

So here she is as I bought her :

 

 

 

How much were the rebuild kits for the fronts and rears, Lee? As I mentioned to you before, I have a full set of alloy calipers here in need of rebuild.

You need this :

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271177681906?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

this :

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281335919257?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

and this :

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271583020241?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

How much were the rebuild kits for the fronts and rears, Lee? As I mentioned to you before, I have a full set of alloy calipers here in need of rebuild.

ok back to my engine issues.

 

Started her up again with conzult and shes holding her temp this time at 78/79 which is great.

 

But doing a power test it looks like I'm down on cylinders 2 and 3.

 

I think this is a spark plug or cabling issue as removing the coil pack plug makes no change to the running noise.

so just swapped coil pack 1 with 3 and then done a balance test again and the same result.

 

if I put a volt meter to the coil pack unplugged will that tell me if that cable works ?

What you need is a noid light, or you can hook up a cheap HT lead sensor getting it to fit can be a pita though. You sure it's the spark that's missing and not the injection side of it? Again you test the injector harness with a noid. The injectors are constantly live but putting a meter across the terminals won't give you a reading as its a switched earth from the ecu. So you can test by taking the battery neg and see if you get 12v from one side of the connector.

 

Personally I'd ohm the injectors and coil packs, then make sure the connections are clean including the ptu ones and cas.

 

Mine played a similar game, dirty ptu connection.

Alternatively, you can pull the coil. Pop a plug in and see if it sparks....slightly more dangerous and ghetto plan.

ok,

 

As it was opposite side that had issues I double checked the harness for the coil packs and they were reversed - oops.

 

Now is starts better and sounds smoother but its doing what I would call revving up by itself !

So this is what she currently sounds like; as said she now has a constant rev every few seconds.

 

Starting to sound awesome :)

 

[video=youtube_share;dmAM-UWNH94]

ok,

 

As it was opposite side that had issues I double checked the harness for the coil packs and they were reversed - oops.

 

Now is starts better and sounds smoother but its doing what I would call revving up by itself !

 

Doh. Marker pen time, write the cylinder number on the connector save that mistake again.

 

Can't help on the idle surge though. Other than check the obvious. Boost leaks, base idle and tps settings. What is it alternating between on idle, sounds quite high.

If was idling near 1500, but its not been touched since I fixed the cylinder issue.

 

I likely just need to adjust the base idle to bring it down and allow the ecu to control it.

 

Also the loom is brand new and just fitted and the cables on two and three are very close matching so easy mistake.

 

It was actually my brother who spotted it was opposite cylinders and thought that was coincidence and best check it out.

Tiz was a smashing day for working on the zed today as its was the hottest day of the week for sure.

 

Fixed most of the engine issues by installing a new air idle valve gasket but my idle is still way to high

and when trying to turn the valve back all the way its till sitting at near 1300 - 1500 at idle.

 

I think the air idle valve must be busted or something.

 

Cylinder Power test using conzult now shows a better performance although it seems a bit lower than

my first bad test on each cylinder all round.

 

Apart from the idle the engine is running much more smoothly and has only a slight top end tick but

that too is getting better as shes been run over the last few days.

 

Also wired up the headlights and installed the new HID's.

after a second attempt to bleed the clutch I now can move her without the need for a ratchet harness which is great.

 

other smaller things we done with help from my wife was fit the rear registration lights and registration plate.

 

This involved the rear bumper being fully removed again as I bought a new harness and new bracket.

 

But it was worth it as it looks great and no way was it to fail the mot on this as its did 3 years ago.

Here's a few updated pics :

 

 

And my HID's on :

 

 

 

When are the brakes going on?

Still awaiting new pipes from concept in the states and a local supplier is getting me braided hoses.

 

I'll start to remove all the brakes next weekend as I've still got a few coats to do then I can fit them.

Here is my current list of things to do and what has been done :

 

 

 

 

Needed for MOT

 

Fit HID’s (now fitted and working, needs spade terminals to complete wiring)

DONE - Fix rear scooshy

DONE - Fit rear registration lights

DONE - Fit rear registration plate

Fit front registration plate

DONE - Fix passenger side headlight

Fix oil leak

Fix brake disks (need to order, brake pipes, brake hoses and shim kits)

Fix reverse lights

Fix driver’s door locks

DONE - Add fuse box (ebay)

DONE - Bleed clutch

DONE - Fix AIV gasket (gasket ordered)

 

 

Needed After MOT

 

TAX

Insurance

 

Extras that need to be done

 

Find boost leak

Fix front windscreen part that B broke. ( ½ assed attempt)

DONE - PCV Hose pipe

Fit rear spoiler

Replace steering solenoid

Find dash vents and fit (now found two smaller ones)

Find pillar panels and fit

DONE - Fit bose speaker to left side door card

Fit leather to door cards

 

 

Personal Extras that are last on the list.

 

Wire up stereo

Wire up drift gauges

Fit gauge looms

Fit alarm

Fit boot popper

Fix halos

Get Speakers ( might not need )

Get front show plate

Fix cigarette lighter (find loom for cigarette lighter – not wired up)

Add logo to steering wheel

On the task above of fixing the reverse lights I can't seem to get continuity using my meter

when the gearbox is in reverse. As its a brand new loom I can only think that its a faulty

switch on the gear box itself.

 

One more test I plan to do is try to manually trigger the lights by connecting the circuit at the plug.

Not been at the garage today so I decided after work to pressure wash all the wheel mud guards.

 

Apparently you don't actually need reverse lights for an mot (this is what I was told by an mot station when mine didn't previously work), although if this isn't true please let me know.

It is true. Reversing lights are not part of an mot test.

Great on not needing them for an mot although still would like them to work.

 

just need to do a few tests next time i'm at the garage.

You can use the reverse light switch from either an Xtrail or patrol iirc, one of them. This means you can buy a patten part from euro car parts for about £15. That's what I did, can't remember the exact car. Same is true with the neutral switch I believe.

It's looking very smart mate. Very envious. I do feel though that a spoiler would finish it off better, mine came spoiler less and I never liked it. Some shorties get away with it but a LWB needs a spoiler imo.

I've got a 99 spec spoiler sitting at home ready to be installed!