General Discussions - 300ZX Related

Red zed. Looked kitted around 5 pm tonight on the cannock Road in sunny wolves.

So after two years of fettling I finally mot'd my zed yesterday, passed with flying colours. After about 15 minutes of sustaining a cheek acheing toothy grin the effing rad popped on the way home.. Serious kick in the balls and the grin. Been searching around and can't find an N.A. radiator anywhere except concept z in the US. Anyone know where best to buy? Also wondering why it might have popped? It popped at the plastic at the top. Rad cap is a bit crappy..

Does anybody have a cat back Mongoose exhaust with quad tips for sale?

I am contemplating purchasing these... https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-25-bolt-stainless-steel-downpipes-p-2958.html Can I ask for people's opinions please? Not sure if they are a bit limited with regards to power enhancements in the future. As things stand, I intend to stick with stock turbos and just enhance their performance further down the line. ie raising boost and improving induction etc. Just do not want to end up with them being a limiting factor that's all. Would appreciate it if you would share your thoughts guys, even if it means an alternative downpipe design/manufacture. Thanks in advance...

Looking for some of these if any1 sees them on feabay

since i now have a double din radio i have nowere to put the turbo timer i put the boost controller were the clock was, so just looking for idea's were people have put theres ?

Heading south today at 9:30. Looked very stock. First one I've seen on the road in years outwith a meet. Was it you?

Long story short. I bought a red import 1990 LWB TT with a manual gearbox last winter from a chap in Oxfordshire, as a replacement project. The car is in reasonable nick so ideal for being the next project or so I thought. It ran smoothly engine wise, had 120k kilometers (70-80k miles), unmolested (no after market parts bar an exhaust (poss Scott&Hayward), and body wise had zero rust. The only thing it was missing was any paperwork. So, I paid the chap to get the paperwork sorted (IVA and V5) on top of the price I paid for the car and thought I had bought a good base for a project. Then he moved to Germany. After five months of hassling him I managed to get the …

The rear cilinders from my hatch are weak and don't hold up the hatch anymore. New ones cost a fortune, but a car shop near me can re-fill them, they only need to know how much pressure they must have. Does anyone know this? It's for a 1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo.

Morning all. I've already posted this elsewhere and had a couple of answers, but thought I'd pick your brains as well (I'm not great with electronics!) So since putting my Z in for its MOT its developed the usual heavy steering at low speed/intermittent speedo drop out fault. My first thought was speed sensor as it's a fault I've had on my previous Z. I decided to investigate further by hooking up to ConZult (cheers BigH) and conduct a HICAS diagnostic (can't do an Engine diagnostic via Conzult as I'm on a Haltech). This is a shot of what it was displaying. Diagnostics was done with the vehicle stationary and idling with the front wheels pointing straight …

read up to use the dexron atf fluid is this still the best stuff to use ? cheers

I've read over multiple respray posts on here and other sites but have a few questions too. So I'm aware that cellulose paint is very frowned upon due to its lack of UV resistance, and am aware of the cyanide fumes from 2K paint. I'll be respraying my Z in a strong gazebo on warm evenings over the next month or so using a HVLP paint gun, and a 50L 8 bar compressor. I have time so I'm fine with say, one coat a night or less. Cellulose: Cheap, moderately easy to work with, but not great for a whole car and doesn't last very long if done incorrectly 2K: Expensive, easier to work with, great finish, lasts a long time, but huge issue with the fumes, especially…

I don't suppose anyone is ordering from CZP anytime soon by any chance? I'd like to tag a small and lightweight item on if possible. Regards, Joel.

I have just purchased my first 300, the car has a very loud single pipe at present and I am looking to replace it with a more subtle sounding twin pipe cat-back system. Do any of the exhaust manufacturers do an 'off the shelf' decent system or does it have to be custom made, if so, can anybody recommend anybody in my area (S.Wales).

So I have been looking at getting my Momo wheel on this evening. I have just deleted my Hicas, and was told that I could fit a non hicas boss to my steering column. However the HKB boss looks like this And won't fit due to the brass ring being in the way. Is there anything I can do to adapt my current boss? Or do I need to order a new Hicas boss to fit the current setup? Thanks guys

pool of glue like crap on the garage floor this morning coming from the passenger side Front Tension Rod so need replacement bushes. found these just looking for recommmendation really and cheaper if possible https://h-tune.co.uk/hardrace-tension-castor-rod-bush-hardened-rubber-nissan-silvia-s13-s14-s15-300zx-skyline-r32-r33-r34/

http://www.caranddriver.com/flipbook/my-fair-lady-a-visual-history-of-the-nissan-z-car?src=socialflowFB&mag=cdb&dom=fb I know which Z I would want. :)

I'm sure most of you have seen this on ebay for sale and imo it looks in good condition and reads well. Its not a sought after oem Z but good condition kitted cars will become very rare and sought after also. These bad boys are part of the Nissan 300zx Jap heritage so don't dismiss it...Love it. :) It looks familiar to me was it a members car here at one time? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-/292132650941?hash=item4404767fbd:g:-~wAAOSww5hZKx5M

Hi all. JeffTT hope you don't mind me using your picture. I'm after the pin out of the circled plug on the foot well fuse box. I have sorted the fan blower and found a diaode soldered into one of the wires. that goes of to my alarm system. just trying to work out what it has been spliced in for. Thanks Nathan https://www.dropbox.com/s/95qr3wtopudsnx2/3.jpg?dl=0

I've had the car for it's 1st MOT in 3 years and it failed on the rear fog light not working and have spent days trying to figure it out. I have tested the relay and it works fine. Fuse is fine as is the bulb Switch is fine, and linked out the 2 pins on the circuit board to make 100% sure I get power to the fuse and relay, so guessing the switch completes the ground circuit rather than supplies power? Now if I ground pin 1 on the relay the fog light comes on, should that be correct? Also if remove the relay and I link pins 1 & 2 then 3 & 5 then put 12v to pin 1 it also turns on the fog light? Under both circumstances the switch doesn't…

So my paint job has again reacted as soon as it got hotter, again. Crazing/cracking...the only option is to strip to metal an try again, for which I no longer have facilities. That's not the issue though. As mentioned before I have a running problem, I've pulled codes 34 (knock sensor) and 12, MAF (but that should be because I had it disconnected). Even if there is a knock sensor issue, would this cause the engine to stumble and stall? The car runs great until I connect the confirmed 'good' MAF. So this suggests pump, injectors and coils are fine. Maybe an air leak then... The engine used to run fine 5 years ago, and so can't be a major issue, gunk ma…

Or infact any big brake conversion For those of you that have made the change to Brembos or other big brake conversions, how did you find the following was effected? 1) Pedal modulation (so how much pedal travel from very light braking to 100% brakes) 2) abs engagement under heavy braking (kicks in earlier or later) Any feedback would be appreciated - - - Updated - - - Oh, since I can't edit, how different did you find in it comparison to stock brakes

Aftermarket high quality performance part for our Z32s soon to be NLA. http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2618136/PSA-Mike-Smith-is-Dis-Continuing-his-MSP-manifolds.html If you are planning on buying a set best do it now...

Saw this ont tele, anyone on here?

Ok, so I brinjibg "it" out of hibernation because it looks like the sun might be about for a full week. I've been preparing everything for a plenum pull, egr delete and injector change for a few months and expected a couple of days messing about with it all as I planned on cleaning up some dodgy vacuum lines and painting a few bits as I went. Started Thursday evening, plenum off, EGR out and the two hardliners to the plenum removed. Just the EGR to manifold feed pipe to remove. Well, it's now Saturday evening, I'm about £50 lighter in my pocket due too buying extra tools. I have three knuckles left that still look relatively normal. I've possibly broke my thumb and t…