Steve-o

Cheers Greg & Fairlady girl, still thinking I'll go with tied back like Vinny says for the interviews, although if done right I think down with a suit looks pretty cool.

K pics up, courtesy of my nokia and the work bog lol.

ROFL! Cheers mate, thats a big help.

I can defo see that, and some people in my office are very critical of peoples look, hair etc when they interview which I hate. I'm just hoping that if I tie it back, and dress smart, the first impression will be me, not my hair, they probably wont realise it's tied back until I turn my head. I think my hair looks ok with a suit too when down, I've been to a few clients like it. It looks ok from the front but the back looks a little too much. Yes I would defo say so, I mean if I was going for a job in sales or something customer facing, it may well be an issue. I'm hoping for what I do, they will be a little less stereotypical. I had my hair cut off once for a job interview as it meant so much to me (this was around 10 years ago though), I thought I did amazing on the tests and at the interview, but I still didn't get the job. Result was a haircut I didn't want and I still didn't get the job. I don't really want to have to cut it off to please someone else this time.

Just taken some pics with my phone at work, trying to work out how to get em on my pc.

Cheers for the comments so far guys, I'll see if I can get a couple of pics up tonight. That's a good shout.

Well the time has come for me to look for another job. My boss is pissing me right off and has been for a very long time now, and after a heated debate the other day there is no turning back. So begins my job hunt. My question to you guys is this - does long hair on men in this day and age still matter when going to an interview? My hair is shoulder length, and at the back, its a little lower than the base of my neck. It's in good condition and tidy. I'm thinking that if I dress up like I usually do, wear a nice suit, shirt etc etc I can pull it off if I tie it back neatly, but just wondering what you guys think. I work in accounts, so not much customer facing at all. Cheers!

ROFL!

tsk tsk.

Blast from the past I know, but has anyone got any contact info for the big man from SA. Been trying to get in touch with him for a bit. Cheers,

Cool, tbh you cant fail but make it look better. I just noticed the pic, the rim doesn't look too bad and the outter edge doesn't look all mashed up so you may well not need to go as far as a metal file. I use a metal one to literally scrape off the deformed edge and then I sand it all smooth to bleng it. If you do that, just be real careful not ro slip and gouge the centre of the rim, real easy as they are soft as shite. I'f it's like it is in the piccy, I would start with a course paper on a couple of inch section, work that bit and see if your happy with the result, if you are then bobs your uncle do the rest. It's a borring old job mind, and prepare to have blisters on your fingers from the friction lol. You could use a sanding block or something, but I like using my fingers (oooh err) cause it's much better to feel what your doing and be a lot more accurate with it. Cheers.

Yeh there is a good chance tubby seals will go a lot quicker with a total decat, mine was on 70k and lasted like it for about 2 years before they started to go but I think I was pretty lucky.

What Chris said, test with some one elses, I did the same to a mates. It's only nose pannel and a jubilee or two. Dead Maf will stop it reving from 2.5, it goes in limp mode and will miss like **** and bog down. Typically that shit weather guard on the z near the air box collects water and lets it into the intake, foam filters are a ****er for killing maf's cause they just get so damp and wet they destroy the sensor. Some can intermitently work ok, I've seen ones dry out and work fine, then a day later they put the car into limp mode! Last i heard they were around 250 from the stealers, 60ish s/h.

They are fitted lower air damn of the front bumper on the frame of the car, J-spec have smaller ones IIRC. It's just a case as someone said of buying a bigger one and literally claping up the pipes then putting them on the new cooler. I have some larger ones for sale if needed.

oh yeh think someone already said on the forum, but rather than running turbos at max chat, better to have em a few psi under, do the IC's gut the pre-cats and have bigger d/pipes on will aid spool tons.

safety is 7 stock is 9ish give or take. Stock turbos manual or auto will drop off at 15ish PSI, TBH I wouldn't run stocks at any more than a bar for safety and they dont flow much after anyway on the stock setup. Whack a couple of welding tips in the pipes or get a greddy, but be warned, anything over 10psi on a stock motor with higher than 70k will kill it much quicker.

Silly question but you wired it so it is sucking into the bay rather than blowing right? I just ask cause blowing hot air forward when the car is moving will restrict the flow on the rad, sucking back is where it should be into the bay and out underneath.

The antena 99% of the time has a blue antena feed comming from the head unit, most stereos will only feed this to the aerial when any of the radio functions are on. If not it should not send a signal and the aerial should retract. Most people who wire in antenas havent got a ****ing clue and wire it to the switch to the igntion or something stupid like that. I would suggest checking the antena is wired to the antena on your head unit, chances are someone has wired it to ignition or something similar.

I've got a blast cab for serious wheel blasting and refurbs, but TBH it's rarely needed. Most of the time it's surface damage, which looks worse than it is, 1-2mm of alloy scuffed can mould together, and look like a shit load more damage to the rim. Your best bet if it's rim damage and not strutural is to metal file off the scuffage on the rims, it will take a very short time to get a rough shape together on the rim. Then you use 120 grit or a real abrasive to start to work the uneaven surface to blend, work your way down to 500 grit which is all that is needed to flatten it to the right shape. Go straight to 800+ and white spirit, then wash with soapy (fairy liquid) water, rinse well. Dry the rim like crazy, cause even when it looks and feels dry often there is still moisture there. Once dry prime with a cellulose primer filler (cheap and sticks well uness the rims are coloured with twin pack, twin pack sits on cellulose but not the other way around). Dry with a heat lamp or hair dryer will do, then sand with 1200 grit to smooth. Wash again with soapy water, and white spirit. Dry totally then spray with alloy wheel paint. After 48 hour laquer with clear varnish (much better than normal laquer). If your aiming for a polished lip like you have, use 1200 from 800 with no primer, polish it out with fine wet and dry, then varnish the lip and blend the varnish into the outter edge of the rim and inner paint to seal the alloy. It will stop it from corroding and make it shine like fook. A couple of days after varnishing, use cutting paste all over to flatten and then polish it up with a polish compound. Job done. I removed and reshaped all four rims on the 306 daily driver by hand and flat down / finished in matt black and laquered in like 2 hours. It dosn't take long (unless they are split rims and you are working with caps, then it's a pain in the ass!!!!!!).

Pirelli P-zeros every time, medium compound, superb grip, but do wear a little easier than others when warm (they go farily soft). Wet driving and dry tho they give amazing grip. 265 45 18's were around 120 each from a decent local dealer, although they fetch upward of 160 in most joe blogs garages. Other than that I would go with Uniroyal rainsport Z rated or Falkens...

TBH a 5W 30 will be good at low temps like we have in the UK most of the year, but not so good at high running temps (which the Z does run to) I'd go for a 10w 40, decent cold start protection and 40 sae can run up to 130ish deg before oil starts to shear. Basically, the lower the first no, the thicker it is on startup and will protect the engine on cold start, the higher the second number, the thicker the oil will be at high temp (so 10w 60 sounds attractive). But its also down to molecules and the makeup of the oil, and semi or fully synth, a lot of oils differ. TBH I'd say a 10w 40 semi synth is the best balance for a Z over here, but ppl will hace their own opinions on oil, it's a funny old thing!

Sorry bud, from experience on only 4 Zeds to your 20 (lol), smoking on rundown was not PCV's. Infact, they seem to do **** all lol in all three cases it was turbo seals, and never seen valve stems go on one. Heavier oil prolongs the issues but in the end, seals it is.

realistically a 5 speed stock Z manual, reconed with a good clutch will see high 400's and not slip or die quick at all. Me and Jay ran 480ish hp and 400ft lb on a stock mid mileage box with a decent clutch with no slip and beleive it took a lot of shit with FTS. LC etc. I doubt many Z's are truely dynod on say a mustang dyno that will show anything over 500hp, so unless you are spending a second mortgage on the z to get it ove this performance, a good manual box with a high performance clutch will be fine.

I've seen known of four autoboxes on close friends go, and then have all been the soloinoid, which in turn kills your laccy bands lol. Most ppl who do recons, fudge the part, cheap fix, good profit, hence 99% of the time it is a shit job and will die within another 6k

Getting soft in my old age mate lol. And it's good to be back. Ello Shrimp ;)