Joely P

Let us know how you get on. It'll be worth relocating the washer bottle and overflow tank if the airflow now exits directly rearward. Also, get yourself a carbon canister from an R33 GTR as its less than half the size, does the job perfectly and doesn't hinder the airflow [emoji106]

Let us know how you get on. It'll be worth relocating the washer bottle and overflow tank if the airflow now exits directly rearward. Also, get yourself a carbon canister from an R33 GTR as its less than half the size, does the job perfectly and doesn't hinder the airflow [emoji106]

Indeed. This is an interesting thread.

Indeed. This is an interesting thread.

You've paid €500 to have someone killed and paid €2000 to protect yourself from their mates? This sounds like an episode of love/hate!

You've paid €500 to have someone killed and paid €2000 to protect yourself from their mates? This sounds like an episode of love/hate!

Welcome [emoji106]

Welcome [emoji106]

Don't take the mick out of dwarfs with learning difficulties; it's not big and it's not clever.

Don't take the mick out of dwarfs with learning difficulties; it's not big and it's not clever.

Sorry, I went off on a random tangent on that one.

Sorry, I went off on a random tangent on that one.

I also have the Greddy SMICs and am happy with them. They weren't cheap but were reviewed fairly favourably back in their day. I have no idea how or if things have improved in the design of these cores since then but the Greddy coolers are very much dwarfed by the huge coolers of today. I do recall seeing a chart, testing all of the big guns about 10+ years ago and whilst the cooling efficiency was good and favourable pressure drops for the Greddys, against the bigger cores, they just couldn't keep up with the final output charge temp so simply were not as good. That was until the tests were redone with a factory front bumper and all OEM lighting (no fog ducts) installed, where the Greddys performance was superior. I still wonder today about the efficiency of these heat exchangers that are being crammed in those corners. There must be some heat soak at the top and the pressure drops can't be good? I also wonder about how effective the ducting is on some of these new ones as they're designed to be installed as ducting for OEM bumpers but due to a relatively small intake opening, serving a large core face, it is essentially creating a convergent duct which will slow down the airflow across it, increase the pressure, reducing the air that can flow across the cooler. Disregarding the core efficiency of the cooler itself, Ideally we want to get as much cool air in and out as quickly as possible and I've seen surprisingly little testing in the best methods for intercooler exhaust ducting with published, proven results. Using these large cores with the stock NACA intercooler exhaust air being drawn out of the bottom can't be the best way. But is simply cutting slots in the arch liner or similar going to be a suitable alternative?

I also have the Greddy SMICs and am happy with them. They weren't cheap but were reviewed fairly favourably back in their day. I have no idea how or if things have improved in the design of these cores since then but the Greddy coolers are very much dwarfed by the huge coolers of today. I do recall seeing a chart, testing all of the big guns about 10+ years ago and whilst the cooling efficiency was good and favourable pressure drops for the Greddys, against the bigger cores, they just couldn't keep up with the final output charge temp so simply were not as good. That was until the tests were redone with a factory front bumper and all OEM lighting (no fog ducts) installed, where the Greddys performance was superior. I still wonder today about the efficiency of these heat exchangers that are being crammed in those corners. There must be some heat soak at the top and the pressure drops can't be good? I also wonder about how effective the ducting is on some of these new ones as they're designed to be installed as ducting for OEM bumpers but due to a relatively small intake opening, serving a large core face, it is essentially creating a convergent duct which will slow down the airflow across it, increase the pressure, reducing the air that can flow across the cooler. Disregarding the core efficiency of the cooler itself, Ideally we want to get as much cool air in and out as quickly as possible and I've seen surprisingly little testing in the best methods for intercooler exhaust ducting with published, proven results. Using these large cores with the stock NACA intercooler exhaust air being drawn out of the bottom can't be the best way. But is simply cutting slots in the arch liner or similar going to be a suitable alternative?

Haha, nicely put! That is nice. I like the interior too, looks lovely. There's another one of those bizarre steering wheel centre pad with the horn outline detail.

Haha, nicely put! That is nice. I like the interior too, looks lovely. There's another one of those bizarre steering wheel centre pad with the horn outline detail.

Sounds like you need to be reacquainted with a Z, are you at home tomorrow, I'll pop round for a brew? ☕️[emoji514]

It's depends on the capacity/dimensions of your box as to what drivers would be compatible. I would always recommend JL Audio but you would have to investigate which one is suitable for you. You'll be looking for high end, very expensive models if you're after 1000watts RMS, but I really don't think that is necessary, I would be much more interested in the sound quality before the power output so be wary of cheaper brands claiming high outputs. Unless of course you're referring to peak output, which I would generally ignore and only take notice of the RMS output. I have a JL Audio 10w3v3 in mine which I installed in place of an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10" (a very well reviewed sub), the Infinity is for sale if you're interested, £50.

I think so, a new replacement will cost you £150-200. Have it out and store it for when you need it if your new Z glass is staying in.

I like your reg. number :thumbup1:

SWB slicktop with LMGT4 wheels, nice!

Having reread my post, it's not particularly accurate! I'd have to look at the wiring diagrams again but if the fuse doesn't blow after removing the relay then it could possibly be anything left in that circuit, including the relay. Basically, just try and isolate parts of the circuit, if it stops the fuse from blowing, you know the defect is in that area.

I have a set in the garage somewhere, I'll have to dig them out but they're yours if you want them.

Unplug the fog lights relay, and try again, if it doesn't blow the fuse, you know that has an issue. The same can be done with the fog lights themselves and maybe the plug into the switch pod. Trial and error so stock up on 10amp fuses! Hopefully you don't have water leaking onto your fuse box from the targa drain.