Old Zed

That looks a cracker Si, but please say your going to change them wheels, its still nice tho'.

Was that the weekend of his barbecue...

Is that what you put on hemorroids mate ?

It was supercharged and weighed in at 750kgs without the driver, and fitted with drum brakes all round. No seat belts either because all drivers feared being trapped in a burning car. Very brave people.

The Sunday Times has run an article comparing Jenson Buttons car, the Honda RA106 with the 1951 Alfa Romeo Tipo 159 of Juan-Manuel Fangio. The most startling thing is the power that was being extracted from the Alfa. It was a 1.5 litre straight 8 pushing out 425bhp @9300rpm and had a top speed of 190mph. In comparison the Honda is 2.4 litre and knocking out 760bhp @ 18500rpm and a top speed of 225mph. What ever happened to Alfa Romeo in modern times, its sounds as though they had the motoring world all stood to attention then.

I got mine from the local Nissan dealer, can't rememember the cost but not expensive.

No they ould not all be worn, which makes me think it is a clutch clearance ploblem. Do you know what oil is in the box, that could also cause problems.

Looking from the front of the car, its that shiney thing just in front of the battery.

Follow the loom back up to the connector just in front of the suspension strut top. Disconnect it there and it should be OK.

If your wheels require a spigot ring, there is usually a small recess in the back of the wheel hub, if there is not then it probably do not need them. I had a set of Enkeis and they did not require them. If in doubt, pop into an alloy wheel centre and ask them.

Have you had someone inside the car pressing the clutch pedal down and been underneath and measured the clutch fork movement. It could be synchro trouble which when going slow it will engage OK but at speed will then clunk because it not meshing the next gear correctly.

Hi Wolfman. If you take the centre console out to which the leather gearstick gaiter is attached, the two rubber gaiters are attached to a plate bolted to the tunnel with four bolts. easy peezy mate.

By the way Dave, is this engine being rebuilt to a price (i.e.cheap) or to recommendations from SWZ. What takes priority.

Dave, it sounds like parrot mechanics again......

Taking it out is OK, 1 man job, putting it back is something else. I hope you realise that you have to drop the front crossmember when taking the engine out.

You really need to find an engine in a damaged car that has got some history, otherwise any second hand engine is a risk as many people on this forum will confirm, despite guarantees.

If you find that the aerial is faulty and needs to be replaced, do not be tempted by those Ebay ones from the US at £25 or so. I bought and spent days pissing about checking everything trying to get it to work, without success. Bought a secondhand proper job and it went straight away. You could by my US one for say a £10.

It does not mention rings or bearings being inspected or replaced so it is not a rebuilt engine. And it had the head gasket replaced. Why ?

Are you taking the engine out or the gearbox out, either way the splitting bit is the same. Drain gearbox oil.Remove engine to gearbox back plate bolts, and remove the plates. They are in two pieces on an auto. The starter should be off as well. You will then see 4 mounting nuts for the torque converter, undo 'em. Remove the bolts round the bell housing, the two at the top is only reachable when the gearbox crossmemmber has been removed and the gearbox is then lowered. Ensure the torque converter stays attached to the gearbox. You will then need 3 shredded wheat as it is quite heavy. A two man job.

Sadly I am now not able to come due to a commitment which has been changed to Sunday. See you all next time hopefully then in the Zed.

Kev you budding mechanic, it is a difficult job with the plenum on as you need to cut off the pipes to the EGR. Then plug them securely. The ends that fit on the plenum need to be welded up and then bolted back on to the plenum. This is very difficult when the plenum is in place, but as you are a late night disco mechanic, you might just manage it......cheers mate, John

Well mate you are in trouble, there is a huge list of traders on here and no on can help you, not even an offer of replacement, it tells a story 'eh.

You are better off taking it to a garage who are unfamiliar with a 300zx than to a local main dealer. They are supposed to be experts and will fault everthing they don't understand, as opposed the local mot station will try to appear as knowledgeable and probably just pass it.

Mark the position of the CAS unit and unbolt, Turn ignition on and rotate the shaft of the CAS unit. you should hear the injectors click as they fire plus the pump pulse also. If you remove a coil pack and insert a plug you should also see it spark. You should be able to see what is not working from this test.

I did not mention 'abusive parrot mechanics', I stated 'parrot mechanics', thats people who read thread answers from others about doing repairs, and then quote them practically word for word in their reply to another thread, and probably have no experience of the actual work. Another aspect which comes into play with a Zed is the state of modification, i.e. it would take a bit longer to do a cambelt on a car blinged up , say like BG Vince's than a bog standard runner, book times could cost you money.