Z32

Just thaught id post some info, maybe usefull. all the threads saying when you do a NA to TT conversion, you need to use an electronic boost controller, as the NA loom doesnt have the connectors for the boost solenoids (without these conected youl be only on 7PSI) you dont need the TT loom, nor do you need a EBC. you can just wire them to an ignition powered live. ive run each one to an earth (the engine) then the posative just needs to go to an IGNITION powered live. it doesnt matter which wire on the solenoids you use for the earth as their not polarity sensative. dont run them to a constant 12+ tho, or as i have found out youl have a flat battery the next day :) just thaught this maybe usefull info to the forum for future cases :)

well its a new AFM to the car, so id expect it to be iffy (second hand one) might buy a new one, just to have code 55 :) if i sell it to the 200sx boys, will it come up with an error message on theirs? dont want to sell it to a Z owner whol have the error message also

the car drives fine now, no pops or bangs. i was driving it, then it went pop/bang, then woudnt start. but i think that was because the CAS connector came off. the AFM is something seperate i think, as ive got the error code for the AFM still. i thaught the initial problem was the AFM as i did the ECU check, then saw the CAS after. car running fine, but has error 12. does the car not run 100% if its in error modes?

no i havnt, i get code 55 when i unplug the AFM (all fine) but when plug it in comes up with 12 (but still drives fine)

just looked, the CAS had come off. CAS back on, started & runs fine. am still getting error 12 when i connect the AFM tho? it runs fine with the AFM connected? must be dodgy. while i have error 12 does the car go in any kind of mode? it will rev over 2500rpm etc ?

just conencted my boost solenoids up, and went for a blast (car pulling reall well!) all of a sudden pop/bang! like a bee*R overfueling sound. car started after it, bogging out. now doesnt start. ECU shows error code 12, which is the AFM? now this is the first time ive driven the car in boost since ive had the AFM. it was a little boggy when i had it, and the mesh was a bit crap, so cleaned the mesh, and sprayd WD40 onit. think ive bought a shit AFM? the car will not start now tho?? shal i unplug it?

na i didnt remove it, it had peeled whered was damaged on 1 side, so straightened it out. then cleaned the surface, which was dirty. (was thinking how people clean the sensor inside?)

i think its the washers yes, the garage actually wired mine from the bottle to the balance bar! luckily i didnt squirt them, and noticed

sorted :) took it apart, straightend the mesh, then cleaned the mesh with WD40 (soot all over it) and sprayed WD40 on the sensor (quickly from a distance) was nice & smooth then when went for a blast, and held boost nicely :) (car hadnt been used all through december/january so that probably helpt)

thanks for that pic dude. il see if i can fit some sort of prong through the hole and seal it, then run it to the tank. whats the harm if dont conect the expansion tank? isit the steam from the rad has nowhere to go, hence pressurizing? therefore the steam goes to the tank to save the rad?

ive defo got a radiator & oil cooler seperate. but also the take-off on the rad. can i just block off the rad then at the bottom? (will conect the hole at the top to the expansion)

ahh, so at the moment my expansion tank is doing nothing, can you elabarate on the take-off at the bottom of the radiator more? why would the oil cooler pipes conenct to the rad? (know you say not to the core/inside)

i wouldnt have thaught so, as the expansion tank does this (think) yea, at the bottom of the radiator, there is a take off, which connects to the expansion tank. this is the only pipe which connects the rad to the expansion tank

havent noticed this til the other day (bear in mind i havent really driven the car in a year) had small amount of air hissing & water squirting out, on closer inspection looks like a hole there? now it looks almost perfectly round asif something supost to be there? am i missing something? ive seen some cars which have another pipe coming from the side by the cap. when i installed the rad, i just had the 2 main pipes which go to the engine, and then 1 pipe at the bottom which goes to the expansion tank

remove the HICAS pipe from the power steering pump. then just get the Driftworks eliminator bar. no need to panic :)

ok, il spray sum wd40 onit later & clean with a tissue softly,

my car was running fine, nice and smooth, lent a AFM to someone but went missing in the post :huh: anyone after buying another one, its very spluttery on boost, if you nurse the gas pedal to boost its ok, but try accelarate hard and it holds back & splutters. (like boost lea,k/missing sound) im asuming its the AFM, the new/crap one i have has damaged mesh, can i replace this? does the mesh really matter? or is it the sensor inside what counts.

just done it :)

tried playing about in network places etc etc. i wana get acess to my files on my PC, from my laptop. My PC is connected to the wireless router, (XP) i can access the internet from my laptop (through my router) on my PC, i have run the wizard to setup home network. right clicked the hard drive & selected share. then onto the laptop, ive done the same, created a homegroup? (windows 7) the laptop finds my PC name, and my Xbox 360, but i cant conect to my PC. have i missed something? is there a step by step somewhere? ive been trying for hours :(

crazy isnt it, was stuck in llantrisant & Cardiff for 3 hours in the traffic/snow yesterday. was in my corsa tho :)

had about 9inches of snow down here :) not silly enough to drive out init tho :)

agree, you can have a 94 model and the money you save, just get the other interior bits/lights and done. in regards to rust, my 1991 doesnt have a spot of rust onit. the only thing with the 99spec is probably the mileage.

IVE DONE IT had a automatic NA, dropped the TT engine & gearbox in there, pedal & master/slave cylinders, TT ECU, TT fuel pump, straight forward. fitting the pedal is a bit potchy!

yea will try and do the same then, dont want to just drill the piston out completly or metal shavings will get all in the pump. yea the pdf just seems to loop it all back to the pump, i perfer the minimalistic aproach & get rid of everything un-necessary :)

thanks mate :) the pdf is a little unclear on re-assembling. you need to put this back on and use the origonal banjo which is by the piston/spring, then put an end cap or a normal bolt at the point where the hicas pipes connect. PS my piston is in there :) ive unse-zed it a little, gona be a pig to get out tho :( cheers :)