Bit of update
so while on the dyno we discovered a few drops of oil under the car. A bit of investigation reveals the most likely culprit is a cam seal…. Annoying! So at some point I’ll have to pull the front of the engine off and install a new seal.
I’ve also been speaking to Brett at BDE and will be purchasing his now PS pulley for ATi crank pulley, which will resolve the issue of it spitting off its PS belt.
I’ve also been going through the datalogs of some of the drives I’ve had to identify the cause of the imbalance of fuelling between banks. While I’m not sure it’s totally the cause, I have found that the alternator is not keeping up with demand. While the pic shows voltage drop during a pull down to 13.06v, wider analysis identifies a direct correlation between the fuelling of the engine and the electrical systems being above or below 13.5v. So I’m going to have my alternator inspected, and if it’s performing as expected I’ll either look at having it uprated to 120amp (to offset the 24amp draw of the 525lph pump) or if that’s not possible I’ll look to upgrade to a 200amp unit from WPS or WOSP.
By
nickz32 ·
Just thaught id post some info, maybe usefull.
all the threads saying when you do a NA to TT conversion, you need to use an electronic boost controller,
as the NA loom doesnt have the connectors for the boost solenoids (without these conected youl be only on 7PSI)
you dont need the TT loom, nor do you need a EBC.
you can just wire them to an ignition powered live.
ive run each one to an earth (the engine)
then the posative just needs to go to an IGNITION powered live.
it doesnt matter which wire on the solenoids you use for the earth as their not polarity sensative.
dont run them to a constant 12+ tho, or as i have found out youl have a flat battery the next day :)
just thaught this maybe usefull info to the forum for future cases :)