mines twinturbo

Hi List, Whilst in the US I bagged a set of Nismo S tune suspension :bow: for the Z. Nice 4 way adjustable damping front and rear. Trouble is i have no way of knowing whether they are stock ride height springs or lower unless.......... someone on the list knows the free standing length of the damper and springs with stock springs or lowered. :D I want to go lower so is anyone using these dampers with eibachs or something else? thanks in advance Chris

Hi guys, Back from the US with some tasty 'hand luggage'. Took a punt on a set of Nismo LMGT2's by RAYs from a breaker. They are totally contemporary to the 300zx design but I am not sure whether they will fit due to the offsets. Rear 17 x 9 +38 offset Front 17 x 8 + 35 offset So listers will the fit? What tyre sizes are recommended for these? If they don't fit I got them cheap enough to re-furb and sell on So.......anyone know of anyone who can re-furb a set of split rims in the north west? Also a source for the nismo stickers on them as they are slightly damaged thanks chris

yes mine went pop after fitting ALC. Chris

not overly impressed with red stuff and even less so with EBC discs. (mine warped in a jiffy). Has anyone used 'yellow stuff' EBC pads yet its their street and track formula. I am going to the ring in september and need the braking sorted as the ring is a brake killer. Chris

no bud had to go over my memory like a detective an remembered I replaced the old discs coz they were shagged, got myself the EBC kit coz it sounded like good value. Turns out they was junk. Anyway i am just in USA at the moment and bagged some tasty nismo wheels and a set of nismo S tune suspension so looks like I am gonna go the big brake route now anyway........... Thanks for the advice guys and now we all know stay away from EBC discs. pads are good (red stuff) but discs are ****

Crappy EBC sportline discs...........warped :rant: :headvswal How do i know? Shimmy effect gets worse the hotter they get and both track rods and ball ends replaced.....steering rack good, tension rod bolts good, bushes good etc. etc. So I now need a new set of new front discs. And one's that won't bleedin warp !!!!!!!!!!! :( So EBC sportline discs waste of money stay away etc. Thats EBC sportline discs :(

Just look at the amount of clean warranty holding engines going into the US from japanese suppliers:- http://www.jdmofmiami.com http://www.enginesus.com If these prices include their mark-up and profit think what the auction price is from japanese breakers....... The jap breakers must be able to ship to the UK. Can the trade guys track down the source of supply for these minters? Note: VG30DETT's fit on std pallets so shipping should be easily do-able and worthwhile..........? Chris

tie bar bolts are good and it has just had new turbo's and gearbox (Ztech) and some minor stuff done at Zedworld. So it is the specialists hands and yet cannot get rid of this problem....... Think it is deffo something in the steering chain but what? Chris

Here we go again, :headvswal :mad: Got my Zed back from Zedworld who fixed dead zed problem (wiring loom problem) and also replaced the driver side steering rod as the ball socket was worn...............But still i have a shaky nose under breaking AAAAAARGH! Lets list what I have done to solve this so far:- New dampers New bushings for Energy suspension jobs (full master kit) New discs and pads New upper links New track rods both sides New Wheel bearings Tracking done Wheels balanced New tyres Replaced power steering pump (which i am convinced crapped out due to all the shaking through the steering) :headvswal :headvswal The symptoms. The front suspension / steering clunks when i turn left (sometimes) Under braking from speed the wheel wobbles and there is a noticeable pulsing through the brake pedal and shaking of the steering wheel. The harder I drive the worse it gets. Anyone...............Any more ideas. I wanna take this thing to the ring but not until its sorted. Chris

Bit of a tough question this one as you cannot expect much from a car where all the components are approaching the end of their design life anyway. All cars of this age will require open wallet surgery at some time soon. This will determine whether our cars will become a classic or not. If enough of us can see the cars through their old age then we will have a bona fide classic on our hands...........BUT i do worry a lot about some people who think it is ferrari performance for mondeo money. That is simply not true and probably the cause of many cars missing services, oil changes and replacing stuff when it should be. Bottom line is a Z is expensive to run if you run it and look after it properly. My advice is if you are looking for performance on the cheap forget it. If you can honestly afford to drive a real performance car adn drive it then do so. I think there are too many 2,000 mile a year cars which are just like preserved in aspic rather than been DRIVEN :slap:

Andy that is a sweet brace. I will search for the carbing one....... Thanks for the link. I love looking at translated jap sites it is so amusing Chris

I myself want to get a good front strut brace but was told there is only one that really fits properly as space under the bonnet is WAY tight. I think it is a cusco item that is S shaped and nestles nicely into the inlet manifold gaps. I believe it is no longer made and I also worried about the damage that might happen in an accident but they look cool. Has anyone got one of these and if so know where I can get one now in 2006 pics and links always appreciated Chris

Nice Guys to deal with and if you book in and drive over they will fit the system to your car. They have lots of tips to choose from and know what they are doing. Mine was custom made 75mm diameter full system with De-cat and 'controversial' six outlet pipes. Looks kind of standard but not.... Highly recommend blue flame Chris

Guigario the famous car designer once said the ONLY way to show any cars true beauty is through the colour silver. :bow:

Yeah and my jap spec mirrors then fold back for 'extra speed' mode according to my lads :D

Not wishing to confuse but I went through 2 converters until the problem was correctly diagnosed as a faulty speed sensor in the autobox. changed it and haven't looked back :hyper: Chris

Yeah, I did that route and i wish i was a passenger when you get her breathing properly :D I did induction, stillen intercoolers, 360deg turbos,Mine's 'Light tune' ECU and Iridium 1 grade cooler plugs. That was all good, then I did the full de-cat 75mm bore exhaust and Jeez it was profound the difference. Should have done divorced pipes as suggested but hey i am not complaining. Now I can get that boost controller and run higher boost who knows what she will put out. My Apexi Multichecker has seen 340PS. (On a cool morning with lots of dense charge going in ;)) When you take the stock system off shake it around a bit because even though they may look sound lots of collapsed baffles inside means mucho restricto good luck Chris

where do you get the carbon vents??? chris c

sounds like you need to get it checked over to see what other clips might be missing next one could cost a lot more than £1.25 !!!!!!!!!!!!! :nelson: :eek: :eek: Get the car looked over thoroughly. I know from experience my 'fully serviced' one japanese owner with paperwork had the cambelt from hell, water pump dying with old age etc. etc. Your piece of mind will be worth the fee......... :nana2:

Fit a DVD player in the back with two pair of noise cancelling headphones along with the following instructions:- "If either of you ever think you are out of room in the back just say the word to mum and the DVD playing Z goes.........." Hey presto no complaints from 8 & 10 year olds even on 250mile trips :hyper: In fact "Why can't we take the Z?" is the cry even over the old Beemer and the RX8 Chris

Wow they would last me about 6 months then !!!! Only joking....... (>30k miles per year in my Z) I just changed to Toyo Pro-ox 1r's myself and am quite enjoying them.... Interestingly Me & my missus took her RX8 to pro drive recently and saw graphically the difference tyres can make:- Pro driver in nicki's car with Bridgestones (the tyres the car was developed with) ACE, vs. Same driver, same model car with Pirelli's (the company Pro-drive have their sponsorship deal with) WEAK. The difference was amazing. Mind you My missus also has had her RX8 lowered 30mm but even so the difference was obvious with the squealing noises and the whole poise of the cars. The pro drive guys said 'we would love to drive with the bridgestones' but don't tell pirelli we told you that! Chris

My original HID's (low beam from Outlander Motorsport) start dull then brighten up in seconds my Hi beam ones however take some time and flicker on start-up.......Switching between hi and low beam is therefore not as good as it should be. I was thinking of reversing the fit and also I have been told the battery has to be in tip-top nick as the initial drain for HID's is mammoth. So not sure :confused: I think I will get the Z-centre guys to look at them when i return for some other stuff doing. (haven't forgot guys) My Missus's RX8 has HID's as standard and of course there is no flicker whatsoever just a couple of seconds to get to full brightness.......... :bow: Having said all of that i can say that now having had the HID experience I would not even drive a performance car at night without them and when you get them done do both Hi and low beam you will not regret it. Chris

What sort of mileage did you get from the next box and what kind of HP / mods are you running? Chris

Hey garstang, not seen your Z around preston i am in clifton........ Silver Mines' twin turbo - looks like stock - but is not :D Chris C

Uk auto's do have a cooler but it is (pygmy sized) and jap ones don't but they were both still on their design limits when 'designed' in 1988. By now even the youngest autobox is 10 years old and most are 15 years old. The oil cooler will give you a little longer than you would have had without it but that box will blow especially if you are on the upgrade trail. My advice to fellow auto owners is get out of denial and start saving for either a replacement bill or a manual conversion. If we (the z community) are not realistic about helping our cars through the next 5 years then they will slowly die one-by-one and not reach classic status which they deserve. The auto vs manual conversion is a personal choice at the end of the day and sure auto's had smaller turbo's and different cams but in the real world some say that a manually converted auto drives better due to faster spool up and better real world drivability. If you are after big power then you would be replacing turbo's anyway. Either way is your choice..........but start saving Chris