alicowan

Fired up the Camaro after 3 years. Wouldnt budge (Auto box). Freed off all brakes. Still wouldnt budge. Topped up tranny fluid (really low). Now gets a wee bit drive in reverse but wont go forward. Move shifter down through D, through S and into L (low) and it wants to go backwards !! WTF

Just back in from Zedshed. Corroded connections on injector. Cleaned them up - now running sweet as a nut. Might just do the other 5 tomorrow

Done that to start with Dan but didn't help so swapped coil pack and plug from good cylinder but misfire stayed on same cyl. Plug was dry so now thinking maybe injector?

Took the car for its MOT today,started off on 5 cylinders but just put that down to its first road run since October. After a couple of miles all six kicked in. Reckoned it was probably just a bit damp and it dried out. Got to the MOT station, ran fine, took car out of garage, switched off, paid for MOT and when I started it again it was back to 5 cyl. Been like that since. If that helps.

swapped the coil pack and the plug. Misfire stayed on same cylinder. Where now?

standard boost. 44 thou?

Yip. Got the plug out.

Dropped a cylinder today. NGK R PFR68. What should the gap be and how can I check the coil pack?

Got me worried now Groover - MOT this afternoon and a couple of my gaitors not great. Checked MOT guidelines and got the info below. Reasons for rejection. (No mention of gaitors). All due respect to your knowledge but I hope you're wrong lol 1. a. no shock absorbers fitted to a vehicle on which they are standard b. a shock absorber missing 2. a. External damage or corrosion to the casing of a shock absorber so that the unit does not function b. an insecure or detached shock absorber. 3. A fluid leakage serious enough to indicate that the fluid seal of a shock absorber has failed. 4. An excessively worn shock absorber linkage, pivot or bush. 5. A shock absorber which has negligible damping effect.

With wheels, exhaust and body mods, value £4k, Footman James for £120. Been best quote for 2nd year in a row,

I needed the wee plastic bit for the door lock mechanism. Told they were like hens teeth but Luke from Zcentre said he had one that he'd throw in with the downpipes I had just ordered. As it was 1st April, I thought he was pulling my leg and bought 2 from Andy Puttnick. Downpipes arrived last weekend, no wee plastic bit, but this morning = you guessed it, my invoice and the wee plastic bit arrived in the post. So, Luke, I apologise for doubting you and if anyone on here needs the plastic bit for the drivers side or a metal version for the passenger side, let me know. No charge.

Fluid integrity checked. 40% JD x 60% coke. Perfect. Agree with the rear light description but budget dictates style at least for the time being lol.

http://www.biggred.co.uk/ i had to call the guy as the part number shown on his site is different from the one I got. The one I just fitted was M1718. It's only the seal kit (4 seals), not the full kit which includes piston etc but the cost was only about £15 and delivery was next day at no extra.

With there only being 2 @ 21w instead of 4, does that mean the load resistor would have to compensate for the equivalent of 3 lamps @ 21w, so 63w?

Only 1 x 21w per side. Am I getting close to a cluster lamp removal? lol

Thanks guys. Might look at aftermarket high level lgiht. In the meantime, dangly bulb time. Warning light annoy me so it has to go. Cheers.

Nah, standard light bulbs. Can't remember if it did this before the winter work. Had the panel off the boot lid and there's a plug with 2 wires going nowhere. Would that have been for a high level brake light ?

Meant to say the lights are aftermarket ferrari lookalikes.

Doing a light check before MOT next week and all is well except when I press the brake pedal. Although both brake lights are working, the dash warning light comes on. Any ideas?

Finally captured son for a wee while. Brakes bled no problem. Wheels on, off the axle stands and tested. Still feels a wee bit soft once engine is running.Solid when engine off. Front brakes bled as calipers were removed. Didn't remove rear calipers as there was no need. Could there be some air in the rear pipes?

My thoughts so far are based around the complete lack of clarity regarding the claims from both sides. Both citing fear of loss but no figures to back it up. It is only their opinion and I'm sure we all trust the opinions of politicians. Are we, as humble citizens , qualified to make this decision? You cannot make a decision until you have all of the information required. As yet, we are not and probably never will be, fully informed so have to go with Joellyp on this one. Heads or tails?

Good advice. Had a similar issue with a cortina years ago so Zed has been gunked and blasted. Where's the bleed screw for the ABS?

Got the seals today from Biggred as seen on the link photo. Easy removal and fitting seals. Pain in the butt trying to make sure the threads didnt cross when reconnecting brake pipes but job done, bmc topped up and looking good. Bleed time tomorrow and we should be good to go. Thanks again Jeff.

Stephen - thank you. Level was low. Topped it up, issue solved. Must be a record - posted a problem and within 4 minutes it's solved. love this forum.

Most of the winter work now complete but still have an issue with hicas warning light coming on. Did this for a wee while last year but was intermittent. Coming up for MOT and I know the tester won't fail it for this but I'd like to try and resolve the issue. Where's the best place to start? Checked FAQ's but couldn't see anything other than changing rods. Doesnt feel like any wear in them.