Joel1993

If it's the newer style injectors then I thought the newer style fuel rail was needed. I may be wrong if anyone wants to correct me

Yeah it's only gradual like. Not much difference but you can tell :) Update on them so far

Received some front wings from a wide body zed for free. Off rich cropley. Smoothing the bottom off as we speak. So it's gradual. Gonna paint them red also :)

Very nasty mate. New front tyres. No more wobble. However the new ones have ripped my arch lining off lmao

OK then. Had a wheel wobble for a while. Took it in and I glad I did. Ready for blowing :O

Thanks guys. Someone has one near me so I am going to pick up Monday. Really appreciate it though. I will bear in mind if that is also a dud :D

Sorted for now. I have hardwired it so it runs at battery voltage all the time. Starts and runs but ticking like mad. Picking new unit up Monday :D

Took apart the fuel pump ecu and this could be the problem. Burnt circuit board in places

Cheers for reply. I have changed the fuel regulator and it's the same results

I have also found after checking my fuel pump that the gasket doesn't fit correctly. Seems to have stretched somehow... this explains the fuel leak when I full the tank up full. But still not starting

Did. Then died now nothing. It's trying to crank but it just keeps going

Car has been running fine this morning. No issues. Now when I have gone to get in the car my afr gauge normally goes up to 3 bar for fuel as a test. But nothing. Constantly 0. There was pressure at the pump but not in engine bay. Need help please

Hmm. If it is doing nothing at all then sounds like it is the ptu. Is it cranking at all? You said it was previously. I had a problem with my ptu where the wires had dropped down and rubbed on the fan belt. This made wires arch over and cause many issues haha. Check the wiring also on the ptu and coil pack connectors... the fact it isn't doing anything.... no crank. Check battery. If it doesn't do it with jump leads I'm not too sure. Let charge for a bit?

If the fuel pump is louder and maybe higher pitch? The pump could be on its way out? Maybe.

Personally in my book it was more cost effective for me to do the n/a rear subframe swap. On the hicas my bushes were dying and it didn't feel like a good unit... the back end would squirm everything I went over a bump :S. Much better now :D

Nobody?

At least you have got it sorted mate... could have been a lot worse

LMao. .. I actually went out to check XD. The light warning is on though?

Does it? Oh bother :(

Update on the zed... my passenger rear lights have had a problem for some time now. When car is old they don't come on. Brake lights work but not normal lights. I took the old resistor out and tried some others but I only had the wrong ones... I got tired so I linked pins 4 and 5 together and there you go. Happy days. It works :)

Update... linked 4 and 5 together and works perfectly. Lights come on when they should :D

Update. I have taken the resistor out but I only have the wrong resistors haha. Is it safe to link 4 and 5 together?

In the drivers footwear next to the acceleration pedal. It's quite far back. It's just a pull off panel. It's awkward to play with the fuses... Just to be helpful here's a picture of the panel

Needing a new rear light sensor as mine is going kaput. Thankyou :D

The ratios on the diff is different... for example. I think the tt one is 3.58 or round about that but the n/a one is 4.08. So fitting a n/a subframe on you are eliminating the hicas and improving your acceleration dramatically. Approx 1 second off 0-60 you do however loose top speed. But not much :)