Gio

Bit of a sweeping statement, that... If you remember your previous life as apple_cinnamon and your posts on the same subject on http://www.zclub.net you might just remember Sean Dezart who could be even more convenient for you as he is on the same continent i.e. France. He has 0 problems whatsoever in bringing in Zs from US. In fact, bringing in US LHD Zeds to Europe is relatively common as California doesn't suffer from rust as much as good ol' Blighty.

Yep, many members have made the same point many times but it doesn't seem to register with him. You said it :rofl: Well, if you can't be bothered to use the Search facility or listen to the answers we all gave helpfully before - in some cases over many years, you can't really blame me for thinking "oh no, not again". It is equally "disrespectful" to ask questions and then waste peoples' time by ignoring the answers. You can see, from FunkySi's helpful reply above what the Spanish for tirekicker is, so I won't repeat it. Since you're a US resident, perhaps you know what a CWOFT is?

:rofl: :rofl:

yes

Good lord it's the return of an old "friend" - stick his username into search and you'll see what I mean! http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=59095 http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=89954 asking the same questions since 2005 and I reckon he's this :xxx: as well :rolleyes: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=22919 http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=38119 What's the Spanish for tirekicker?

Sci-fi trivia: Launde Abbey as featured in Quantum Murder http://www.peterfhamilton.co.uk//index.php?page=A_Quantum_Murder Rutland has it's very own SF writer!

Wikipedia is nearly right. It's wrong as "brake" has nothing to do with the point at which is measured (i.e. at output shaft or wheels). You can very well have bhp measured at the wheels. It's right as the original method of measuring it was - as you say - using a brake on an output shaft to measure the torque etc etc etc

boutros boutros ghali

one of them might be the tyre pressure one http://www.300zxtt.co.uk/tyrepressures.html

What's racist about celebrating a half-Turkish, half-Palestinian Roman soldier? After all, what have the Romans ever done for us?

That is possible. But there are only a very limited number of credit rating companies, Experian being one. So the best thing for you to do is to contact the companies who you found giving the credit reports and ask them.

Maybe event organisers could be encouraged to use the calendar... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/calendar.php? ?

and put the wheels on the right way round :tongue:

Come on guys/gals - we're only a few cars away from stuffing the Skyline record so isn't that worth signing up for? And it'll be fun :D PS lots of press coverage is already lined up for this record attempt so if you want to help raise the 300 profile....

OK Steve, how many more do we need to beat the Skyline record?

Seen the date at the top of the story though? T'internet bringing us news at the speed of arthritic swallow hehehe :rofl: more bbc explanations here http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/theeditors/2006/09/just_kidding.html

oh and for really cheap track session see here http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=91481&highlight=silverstone

Very cheap first step for the road http://www.iam.org.uk/eshop/membershipshop/drivecheck.htm (£25) followed by http://www.iam.org.uk/eshop/membershipshop/sfl.htm (£85) The 2-wheel equivalent I did years ago was run by Hendon Class 1 plod and it sharpened up my riding and road skills no end.

OK please could everyone who wants to pick a fight over manual vs auto vs conversions (not that there's anyone like that on here ;) - just a comment for visitors :D ) please read these words of wisdom. Good advice :)

AndyP is a demon clock fixer http://www.300zx.org.uk/what_i_can_do.htm The surround is secured to the dash in 6 places. Two screws top left and top right under the little plastic clips at the top of the vent. Careful, those clips are fragile. Then unclip the central strip to find two other screws. The strip is held on by two metal clips approx where arrowed and you may need to prod hopefully upward with a screwdriver to be able to release the clips by pulling the strip toward you. After you've uncovered and undone the four screws top and middle, you need to carefully pull the whole thing outward. The last two metal clips are bottom left and need a fair bit of pressure toward you on the console to pull them free. Try to get a purchase just above the clock as if you try to twist it out from the top, your leverage could snap the console somewhere. And that worked for me on Saturday so I could get the Nokia car kit out for eBay and fix the aerial uppy-downey problem. But the RH speaker connection is now intermittent. B*gg*r. Have to do it again this weekend :) Oh, and to break a forum habit and actually answer the question you asked, here's the how-to-fix-a-clock link http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/clock/clock.html . Don't know if it's how AndyP fixes them - just know that he fixed mine years ago and so far it's perfect thank you very much AndyP :bow:

according to Mike F he thinks the lower U section is reasonably priced and can be fitted without taking the glass out. Top section is a glass out job. Mine's so old, it's shrunk - which is why I asked him the question in the first place!

If you look around, it's not easy to find any reference to the definitive list of "parts which must be changed" and "work which must be done" to change a factory-spec auto to a factory-spec manual. It all appears to come down to individual workshop's opinion. Now you or the person who you might want to sell the car to might not share the same opinion as to what a competent auto > manual change is. I am not a techie (just a pedant) so I have no idea if the following differences are or are not important. Where I don't understand stuff, I tend to look to what the factory did as they spent squillions of yen more than I did to develop their solution. Others are more cleverer than what I am so go to it but don't be too surprised if this restricts your market. It's even more complicated because different markets got different combinations of auto / manual / TT / NA / 2+2 / 2 str / slicktop / targa etc etc Differences appear to include: - flywheel - flywheel bolts - propshaft - diff - turbos - clutch booster / lines / master cylinder - alternator harness "It plugs in almost exactly right except for some splicing..." eek (but someone else has a different view - see links below) - a whole bunch of boots and stuff My sources are: Service Manual http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi Parts fiche http://www.300zx.lv/catalog/?m=Z32 http://www.z1motorsports.com/PDFs/Autoto5spconversion.pdf http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=874620 http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=916979 http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=746049 As I said before, competent people can do this and / or evaluate it to their own satisfaction. But not me! So I clearly fall into the category of people who would never buy a conversion without understanding every change done or not done and why (and I never will - don't have the expertise, don't have the time). If you fall into the category of tech wizard, then go ahead, have fun.

Hi Richard - if your insurance will cover it, you can have a test in my manual fnarr fnarr. Spookily I nearly changed the other way when ZTech came up with a good UK auto (as a cure for sitting in the North Circular Road twice a day and being a fully-paid up member of the LLOC thanks to a loose nut on the handlebars). Having driven both, I am very impressed with the auto but not enough to change. I guess it comes down to a) how you like to drive and b) car condition. Me - despite the LLOC - I prefer the control and clutch / gearstick / throttle stuff. For 95% of my daily driving, the auto would be the more sensible choice - go figure! As Ralph Waldo Emerson said (paraphrased by Isaac Asimov) "A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of tiny minds". I agree with you: if you want a manual, buy one and if you want an auto, buy one. Conversions are never as factory as the factory and bad ones would rip the value as well as give you a lot of time at the roadside. If knowledgeable owners want to take that risk, then fair enough but Mr Borings like me would never buy an amateur conversion as there is no way the quality or completeness of the work can be guaranteed and it drives a truck through the originality. Anyway, it's time for Life on Mars so I ain't writing any more and you won't be reading it :tongue: let's just hope it's a proper ending rather than the cliff-hanger-leading-the-way-to-another-series like the first one. Cheers - Gio

Nissan got it broadly right. Don't forget the Z cost (in UK) somewhere north of £35,000 and that was 17 years ago. I doubt that (except for a few honorable exceptions) any after-market supplier or self-taught modifier can beat years of design effort by dedicated teams of automotive professionals. I'd turn your question round: what's wrong with stock? I'd take a stock Z32 of an equivalent age/mileage any time over a badly modded, badly mapped, boost-jetted, over-lowered, badly-painted Max-Power job.

And Clarkson talks tosh, too - like in the vid in this thread http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=88963 he says Yes "trounced" OK but not by a 1980s ZX. And later when explaining why... What he says is accurate but his implication is that the 300ZX is not modern or safe or strong (it is all 3) and that it is lighter than the 350Z (also wrong). The 300ZX Twin Turbo has a kerb weight of 3,495lbs/1,588kg (source 300ZX Enthusiast's Companion) and the 350Z has a kerb weight of 3,406lbs/ 1,545kg (source Autocar Road Test #4618 via http://www.mjpauto.com ). JC clearly follows the journalistic tradition of never letting the truth stand in the way of a good story....