Gio

Oh I see - no, of course they weren't the first. Proof here http://www.stuffucanuse.com/fake_moon_landings/moon_landings.htm

and here http://www.300zx.org.uk/mod_comp_0.htm

Of course it's true. Conspiracy theory on this one is, like most internet conspiracies, complete twaddle swallowed by the - well, differently intelligent. Snake oil, anyone? Oh and if you've got 0.5 of a brain, check these out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apollo_Moon_Landing_hoax_accusations http://www.badastronomy.com/bad/tv/foxapollo.html http://www.lunaranomalies.com/fake-moon.htm

http://www.bridgetogantry.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=section&id=4&Itemid=28 http://www.supercars.net/PitLane?viewThread=y&gID=3&fID=0&tID=10073 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordschleife_fastest_lap_times#Current_Miscellaneous_Lap_Records:_OEM_Passenger_Vehicles_.26_Sport_Racers And that reminded me - I think I'm in love http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabine_Schmitz no longer married, eh?

Enthusiast's Companion And did I mention that the Z is still a record holder at Bonneville from 1991 - that's an unbroken record for sixteen years? http://www.junauto.co.jp/democar/jb-z32/index.html?en

When the seagulls follow the trawler, it's because they think sardines will be thrown in to the sea

Was on holiday last month with my blonde better half and her mother. Got to the taxi rank and the cabbie said "Let me help you with those bags" :rofl: you have no idea how hard it was not to come back with "I'll get the blonde and you get the one with the toiban" and the mother-in-law still doesn't know why I was grinning all the way to the harbour. hehe.

ianl - interesting, ta. Might give it a try. The wiring diag seems to agree with you. Can't see the gray on it, though but if it's an earth, does it matter? The rear amp seems to be grounded anyway through the body and so (obviously) is the head unit. I wonder if the green 12v+ is just a trigger and not a full power feed - it seems too thin to deliver any ampage. I'm not so good at reading wiring diags but it looks as if the rear amp might have its own connection to the ignition. I'll have a look to see if the J amp is in the same place you said for the UK and the manual says for Europe. ...but probably next week, now. I'm pretty sure it's not Bose as the rears aren't the enclosed moulded units - just normal Hitachi (now replaced by lovely JBLs). But is anyone's looking for Bose advice and repair, I found these removal and info pages. I understand what you say about power / possible clipping but if I can find time, I'll have a test and see what happens. It would be nice to see how the inbuilt stuff performs or not. I'm usually as fussy about sound as I am about keeping things stock! Cheers - Gio

Yep - good job, nice look.

Retro620ti - yes OK but I was trying to use the existing harness without making the sort of rat's nest I just took out of my last one! Plus I just put all the trims back so was trying to find a way out of taking it all apart again. ianl - I think you might be right. Logically, what else would the connector NEED the extra 2 wires for? It also explains (sort of) what happened when I tried random permutations. (It was a two unit Nissan (Clarion) radio/cass top unit and CD bottom uint. No remote. 2+2 Dec 93 Series 3). 1) Does anyone know where the amp is on the 2+2 Series 3? Is it the same as ianl's swb? 2) Why not power up the amp and use it? Does anyone know if the OEM fed the amp at speaker level or line level? (Yes OK any rational person would have designed it to be at line level as God intended but this is Nissan and a 300ZX we're talking about :p )

AndyP's site has a good page on Series differences. Here are a couple more really anoraky ones I noticed (at least on my Mar 90 S1 and my Dec 93 S3). 1) Boot carpet. Series 3 has rubber underlay/sound deadening as opposed to that fluffy compressed fabric-y stuff on Series 1. 2) Tweed doesn't fade as much as cloth. 3) The welding and preparation on the cross-member behind the dash (whatever it is) is a bit tacky on the Series 3 compared to the nicely finished and painted one on Series 1. First Series 1 and now Series 3 no paint and the welding's a bit crap What does it all mean? Apart from Mr Nissan trying to save a yen or two? Probably very little :D nighty night, Gio the anorak :p

Busy day today - at the cars bright and early 7.50 am (well, that's bright and early for me on a weekend) to swop audios and get ready for car alarm bloke. Say hallo, Miguel from Southern Car Security of Crawley. 7.51 am Miguel's big van blocks out sun. Coffee on, work starts. Postie arrives - hallo LeGrath's rear JBLs (ta David, very nice, just the job). Anyroadup, as I strip out my stereo/remote/bass tube etc, I become less than impressed with the work of some of the so-called professionals who have just bodged their way to a successful conclusion. Oh well, it's quite good fun having a poke around and going "tsk tsk" and then solving things. Work cracks on and I even miss the Saturday lunchtime pint (now there's dedication for you - only for Zeds... ). All my kit and wiring out from the Silver Machine and the Nissan radio/cassette back in. It works - hooray! Make note to fix aerial connector. Miguel finishes the alarm, hands over keys, remotes, certificate, instructions etc. Now I can stuff my Sony and Pioneer into Leo (Blue NA Auto). Time passes. CD changer works, tape works, bass tube works, radio waiting for diversity adapter (thanks, Bob), remote commander works - blimey, I've usually melted something by now. (I have one torn nail and drawn blood three times but that's better than normal for me when doing anything practical.) And now I hit the problem. Getting the rear speakers to work. The standard ISO connector doesn't do it. It does everything else: aerial uppydowny, L & R front - all fine. The breakout for the rear speakers has 4 wires (L rear +/-, R rear +/1) exactly as per Daves_Zed's wiring diag But the only available connector on the Z wiring loom has 6 wires. I plugged it in to the ISO but nothing. I took the ISO apart and took a rear speaker out to manually connect speaker direct to feed. Worked fine. Tried to test each wire in turn against the Zed connector and that's where the fun started. The connector is this one: Looking at it from the front, the wires are 1 Orange / 2 Light Green / 3 Dark Green 4 Black & White / 5 Black & Yellow / 6 Grey The Black & White might be faded Black & Violet From Dave's diag, this should be 1 Orange Rear Right + / 2 Light Green Rear Left + or maybe / 3 Dark Green Rear Left + 4 Black & maybe Violet might be Rear Right - / 5 Black & Yellow Rear Left - / 6 Grey ??? I have tried so many combinations that I now give up. The strange thing is that if you stick any wire to top right 3 Dark Green then its pair will give sound connected to 1, 2, 4 or 5 - but not at full chat. I found one combination which gave Right Rear at full chat but Left Rear at lower volume. It's a JDM Series 3 so I am fairly sure (not 100%) there's no amp or gubbins. The (old) rear speakers worked fine with the (old) Nissan stereo. Both old and new rear speakers work fine when connected manually to the ISO rear output pairs. Any ideas?

Top bananas, guys - thanks. Busy weekend ahead :D

Thanks mario - wish I was closer to Sheffield! How do I get the back seat out? According to Dave Zed's excellent wiring doc http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=866712&postcount=5 the Orange should be "Illumination" and connect to the Red/Green in the ZX loom - but I guess the unit itself generates its own "illumination by the front panel. Certainly the Sony wiring diag doesn't show the orange - as you said. I forgot to mention I found a diversity aerial adapter thanks to Bob Safe'n'Sound so thanks, Bob :D so fingers crossed for a dry-ish weekend.

I'm fitting a Sony head unit & CD & Panasonic bass tube to my new auto and can't work out the easiest route to get the cables to the back. Tracing back on my old Z it looks as if you take off the sill covers and put them behind the carpet. Is that right? How do you get them behind the rear seat - do you have to take it out and the trim or is there an easier method? I got an ISO connector (all Nissan models) from Harry's but when I got it home it already had two wires cut and wrapped with tape :eek: :mac1: so back to bloody Slough on Sat. I also noticed the Sony doesn't use ISO but appears to come with its own adaptor which fits to the ISO. Let's hope it's simple when I get the console off tonight / tomorrow.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=37072&highlight=age+poll http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=28908&highlight=age+poll

And look at the plate - a V1? Either the man has no idea about how engines work or it's a staggeringly tasteless attempt at a German joke :D

No - you only rent it :D Cheers Alan, have fun.

And here's the official Nissan parts fiche showing the charcoal strip (bottom right) and paint code G64-1. I only mention it cos the UK number plate plinth is a) designed to fit in the strip exactly and b) is colour matched to the charcoal. If you look at the gaps which allow airflow to the rad(s) the thin one which is in the strip must be less important (it's narrower so air will stall at a lower speed than a wider opening) than the larger opening below it. So personally, I would rather mount a number plate to obscure the thin gap than the big one (best would be the US version where you don't have to have a front plate at all). For some reason, I think that the UK mount within (and matching) the charcoal strip has a neatness about it that beats just hanging a plate like the JDMs.

These guys refurbed mine http://www.cdrsupplyco.com/pages/5/index.htm

Ahh thought it was there or thereabouts! Now let me see - is the Britannia still there? And the Fullers pub? And there was a great Everards pub just opposite. Hang on, got a pic of it somewhere (you can tell I had to do too many exhibitions at Olympia over the years... :D ) Aaah proper pub, good beer and hopeful kitty! :duffer: :duffer:

Charcoal stripe every time. Breaks the front up and makes it look lower (compare to the wide-mouth look of the 99 spec).

Is that the car park next to Olympia?

Ah OK - I didn't realise anyone was allowed to leave Lord EMAP's empire! IIRC Craig David journos for EMAP but I don 't know if he freelances or what. Good Luck with the guide. I can't think of any other car which delivers so much and costs so little (to buy) - what else can you get for £5k with this level of performance, technology and style? When it was launched in USA, Motor said "Dollar for dollar, it's the best damned sports car on the planet" and that's still true. IMHO.

Peterborough? Is this EMAP? If so, I think Craig David on here will be a good contact.