Gio

Also a typical behaviour when your rear shocks are u/s.

fpmsl

And just read a little further - the 1957 British Grand Prix at Aintree looks like being a real pub quiz twister - "This was the first occasion that a British-built car won a World Championship race, a feat achieved with two British drivers at their home Grand Prix." It's a coinci-clasm, Professor.

There have always been team orders in F1 and there always will be. I agree with Eddie Jordan that they should just scrap the rule against team orders. And as Martin Brundle says "my strong advice to any established driver is to simply ignore the request, win the race, and handle the nuclear fallout afterwards." It's an example of the Golden Rule: he who has the gold, makes the rules. Who pays the driver's wages? And in 1957, drivers could even swop cars mid race! "Car #20: Tony Brooks (26 laps) and Stirling Moss (64 laps). They shared the 8 points for first place" British Grand Prix http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1957_British_Grand_Prix - wouldn't that shake up a boring race :D

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=1405299&postcount=10

There are squillions of sensors all over the place. The Z32 engine and ECU were very advanced for their day. To get to grips, you'll probably best start with the fault codes for the ECU. Here's a guide to how to get them (or find someone with a ConZult) http://www.zmods.org/index.php?page=ecu_diag And a useful page with pics of where a lot of stuff is http://www.z32photoguide.com/ And here's a very comprehensive page of how to troubleshoot and check hesitation/stumbling which gives a good overview of fuel/air type probs, how to clean stuff etc http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesitation/hesitation.html Good luck :)

Any recommendations? One that knows their way round the Zed's fiddly trim bits, preferably. Ta.

IACV was replaced with new. Still happens!

OK. My S1 TT Manual never did this but my S3 NA Auto does it all the time. So far it has stumped three known Zed specialists. Throttle bodies cleaned, all linkages checked and greased. Throttle Position Sensor was checked. There are a couple of valves IACV and AAV which have been replaced, first with s/h and then with new (sometimes they can stick so when tapping one with a hammer sent the idle back to normal, we thought we'd found it. But no.) Then wiggling the water temp sensor connectors did the same so those were cleaned up. Partial success but it all came back a few weeks later. ConZult doesn't show anything. It seems breathing or sensor related. I'm pretty certain it's not the viscous fan. Sometimes when cold in the morning it's gutless and sometimes it's fine and sometimes it accelerates on its own into 2nd. It's in the garage again so if there's a cure, I'll post. Otherwise anyone else got any bright ideas?

Sounds like mine. Does it suddenly go from normal then up to 2k and sit there? And then later without any rhyme or reason back down to where it should be?

Modern headunits, yes you're right. But if you want to avoid running new cables or stick to the original wiring loom for whatever reason, you will either need to locate and remove the OEM rear amp (no idea where / how to start) or make it work. I decided to try to work out how the OEM wiring worked as there was a hell of a rat's nest down there cause by people just ramming in another "adapter" or loom bodge. So I took everything out that wasn't OEM and started afresh with what Nissan had put in at the factory. Proper diversity adapter, proper ISO converter and then found two wires left over not mentioned on any wiring diag (the gray and the green/silver band). Plugged in the head unit, aerial etc and everything worked except the rear speakers. That led to the hunt for why and that led to finding out there was a rear amp and how to turn it on. My Sony has to have the rear speakers turned waaaaay down low because of the rear amp. So if I ever want to amp up the fronts, all I have to do is get an amp for the fronts and then it's amped all round.

The exact wiring varies by Series but I discovered the 12v feed to the rear amp (or its relay) by trial and error. I was fed up with the bodge solutions of just running new wires. If it is one of the Zeds which has a rear amp, why not use it!

Bonjour lhouigy, il y a quelq'un (Sean Dezart) sur le http://www.zclub.net. Il est français et il importe Zs en la France des Etats-Unis.

:blushing: good to be back, Si, ta. Good to see some of the old guard still around. Anyroad, how could I have forgotten this (I've been driving all night my hands wet on the wheel) (bonus funny car slideshow) or this killer synth track (never seen that live version before) and if we're talking driving tracks, how could you not have this (yeehah) and in particular praise of the weekend's Australia 1 Germany nil result There we go, that's raised the musical IQ of this site :cool2: ok lads teabreak over, back on yer heads.

Some smoke diags http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/SmokeDiag.htm http://www.ttzd.com/tech/pcvtech.html and there's some youtube vids IIRC, the OEM temp gauge is not a linear temp readout. When in the middle of the scale it means temp OK and it takes a lot to get it moving up to the top. It's deffo in the workshop manual somewhere.

Whaaat? :hurl: Frilly shirted new romantics, bloody disco, There's No-one quite like Grandma In fact, just take a look at the 1980's jukebox on that page. Coward of the County - Kenny Rodgers, Xanadu, Together we are beautiful - Fern Kinney. OMFG. Ok, I'll accept the Jam, Pretenders, Specials and Blondie, but "greatest tunes ever"? Here's three quickies which are definitely great driving tracks and need caution not to get points. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCeD_6Y3GQc (nice wheels on the cover) (Nobody gonna take my car I'm gonna race it to the ground Nobody gonna beat my car it's gonna break the speed of sound...) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jxmDYw3mrY (foot tapper even on a Monday morning) Now those are great tunes :rockon:

You're not the only one. There's quite a lot of "clever" design work to improve the look of the Zed, make it look lower and less lardy than it actually is. The charcoal strip on the front bumper for one, the long thin rear lights for another. I think the orange-peel texture below the detail line (another thing that breaks up the bulk of the car) is intended a) so it matters less if stones and road debris hit it and b) to de-emphasise the bottom section of the car. Think about it another way, if you make that part of the car as shiny and prominent as the upper section, then you're drawing attention to it - which is the opposite effect than if you're trying to disguise the bulk. They put an astonishing amount of design resource into creating these Zeds and it's not just the engineering - they didn't skimp on the external design either.

What have Amanda Grayson and the Port Stanley runway got in common?

Here's what the R134a retro-fit receiver/drier and expansion valve look like. Might be the only ones in the UK as no-one else would have been obsessive enough about "by the book" to bother!:helpsmilie: I didn't bother after that as my 1993 NA was R134a from the factory so the R12 issue doesn't arise.

I got a bit obsessed about this a few years ago with my '90 Silver Z TT because there was a huge amount of bull being claimed by so-called experts. I had the drop-in replacement from a local expert but it was never as good. So I dug and dug and found out there was an official retro-fit kit from Nissan which was never made available over here because it happened just about the time the Z32 was dropped in the UK. There are a number of official Nissan Service Bulletins about this NTB92-001 A/C System Changes for R134a Refrigerant (All Models) NTB93-097 R-134a A/C System Service Part Ordering Information NTB93-188 1994 300ZX Changes for R-134a Refrigerant NTB94-091 Service Procedure for Retrofitted A/C Systems NTB95-106 Air Conditioning (A/C) Lubricant/Oil For Nissan Vehicles NTB96-023a Air Conditioning (A/C) System Retrofit Information & Procedures NTB98-106 New A/C System Receiver Drier Replacement Guidelines The digest is: R12 is now illegal Using R134a in a R12 system can snafu the seals and gum up the receiver drier and won't be as effective as the expansion behaviour of the gas needs a different expansion valve. No idea how the "drop-in" refrigerant fits into this. You can still get the bits to do the official conversion - I know because I did just before I sold the Silver one and I think I've still got them somewhere - I'll look tonight. I think from memory that it's just the receiver/drier, expansion valve and seals which are really necessary. The original kit also changed the filling valves and the compressor.

Less of the "old", buddy :p

Sniff. I can't tell you how much I liked that car (well, actually, you would all know that feeling). If it hadn't been for the bloody car park that is the North Circular, I would never have sold it. Glad he's OK.

What? dead? aaargh :shock: (no bones broken, I hope)

Is that Kev as in Zairs?

Awwww shucks. A legend in his own lunchtime, more like :) Now I remember why I missed the forum. Is there a fight round here I can join in? And who are all these young people who've posted more than me....