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Funkysi

Registered Member
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Everything posted by Funkysi

  1. The Wings West is the petticoat. I don't like either, they both look like giant rabbit hutches - they're 'gopping' as James May would say. The drop sides are the wrong contour and then the lack of swage line. I've never worked out why they were ever popular (thankfully far less now). The Gracer cheapens the look of the Z. Some really poor copies I've seen, the wheel arch curve is completely different to that of the car, looks hilarious....hell, even originals fit like crap. The front end of this Z looks terrible. Apart from the fact that this early Stillen GTZ-R bumper looks like the mask from 'Scary Movie', the shape is dreadful. Seen this on almost ALL aftermarket bumpers.
  2. We'll have to agree to disagree on that one, I personally think they add visual 'weight' to the car and take away the slipperiness. I don't dislike them, some are quite nice, some however are foul. Veilside skirts, Wings west skirts, basically anything with a silly little vent, cut-out or awkward shape on them. Kaminari, Stillen and Impul skirts are all quite nice, but I personally wouldn't fit them.
  3. Yeah, most/all of what you see in the aftermarket world are hideous things.
  4. True, however, it's not something that you can't buy anymore.....it's more a thought of the grim looking Greddy Gracer, Stillen GTZ-R, Veilside Catfish and Wings West horrors.....actually, some of those originals are actually made of urethene, however most replicas aren't. Fibreglass is horrible.
  5. Fibreglass bumpers - like chocolate fire guards are oxymoronic. Besides, I don't think I've ever seen a nice looking fibreglass bumper for the Z32 other than the Escort Racing 99-look one....and the replica one....I'd just wait for a genuine to turn up second hand. Personally I think the original looks nicer. Fibreglass products also fit like ass. Stick with what you have and don't waste your time with skirts. The less rust-promoting stuff on the Z32, the better IMO.
  6. As far as I know, they were all body colour and any that are black have been done as an aftermarket thing. In answer to your question, because my seams are almost perfect (they will be perfect after repaint), they'll be left body colour as they currenrly are. I hear what you're saying but I don't want to hide the condition of a standard part that's in excellent condition....if that makes sense.
  7. No, leave them as they are.
  8. I went to the paint shop earlier in the week. I didn't take photos as most of the car was under plastic sheeting. I only dropped off some bits that I'd stripped down. Doors are off, blocked and semi prepped. Wings are off and prepped as are the bumpers. It's going to slow a little whilst they finish off a classic M5 that's almost ready for paint. Glass will be out soon I think. I've never taken the wings off before so it was nice to see the condition of the forward section of the sills, inner front arches and behind the wings, wonderful condition! Happy days! I had slight and historical jacking crease on the drivers wing which has been straightened out, it was only very minor, but wanted that looking spot-on. They're going to send me some photos at some point which I'll post up here.
  9. Had a decent spare passenger seat which gave up its life for my drivers seat. As we all know, the foam bolsters do collapse over time, more so with fabric seats than leather as that just wears through, my drivers seat was no exception although it isn't the original seat and its history is unknown. The velour type material doesn't really wear through with saggy bolsters but the fabric stretches, loses its shape and creases as a result. Steam can be used to get some of these marks out, but I wanted it to look like new. No before pics, but here's the state of the foam and old bolster. Here's the old bolster fabric removed, you can see the creases down toward the bottom section. The pile is squashed and even if you re-used it, there would still be lines left. Had all the foam swapped over, so it's lovely and firm and new-looking. Well worth doing IMO.
  10. Merry belated boobies!
  11. So did planetary scientist, the late great Professor Colin Pillinger! :)
  12. In terms of actual 'specialists', Jimmer (PowerZed) and Lee Dent (LA) are the only 'specialists'. Both have had great reputations right from the start. I was PowerZed's first ever customer and have been using Jim ever since. His attention to detail, knowledge and skill are first rate and he's been responsible for some of the most powerful Z32s in the country, prior to PZ, Jim had all sorts of technical qualifications and spent many years rebuilding complex truck gearboxes, so has a wealth of engineering expertise.
  13. Really? Why would he not want to return it even if he didn't have to pay anything? Why not ask Mark Derby? Those two seem to be working together.
  14. Huh? :confused:
  15. Very interesting and useful! Thanks Andrew! :)
  16. Few other bits powder coated. These were the originals, now I could have bought new ones, but mine were rust-free. The issue I find with a lot of the black metal components in the 300zx is that the paint quality is quite poor. They're single stage wet painted, they scratch, scuff and discolour very easily, so I had these and the lower bumper support bracket powder coated to give a more durable finish. New rubbers too and new screws. I didn't realise that the original screws for this slot are actually black, always thought they were silver. I did replace the lower metal support bar about 8 years ago and despite polishing it regularly, it discoloured too - no rust on it, just the same single-stage ultra-thin Nissan line paint. My powder coat guy said the paint on these parts blasted off with absolutely no effort and was surprised that the parts weren't rusty! They look a little more glossy than they actually are. They're a satin black which matches all of the rest of the black painted parts Should have a few strip-down pics tomorrow. 3 more boxes of stuff due too, 2 from the US and 1 from Nissan UK.
  17. Looking to thoroughly clean and re-grease my door glass runners when I refit my glass (with new rollers and caps). Does anyone know the correct grease to use? Is it a PTFE based grease? It looks like Nissan used some form of white grease....a lithium grease?
  18. Of course!!! Pics now!!!!!!!!!!!
  19. No, but I'm sending my car there at some point later in the year. As Andrew has suggested a number of recent builds have gone there with fabulous results.
  20. If you're in Warwickshire, head to Pro-Tuner in Coventry.
  21. Just to double check you're going for +22 @ 9" at the fronts not +10 as +10 will require work.
  22. That's actually a fairly decent spec for the front. You might have to play around with the arch liner tabs a little. You won't even need any nasty stretch on those. 245 or even a 255.
  23. Coming from a man who wears a flat cap and slippers? :lol: Hope to see you soon matey. Not sure when you're down this neck of the woods next.
  24. FIRST thing is to get rid of that HIDEOUS steering wheel Kev! :D Oh.....happy birthday by the way! :p

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