Funkysi

Grey 2+2 nr Portsmouth uni at 5pm today. Viper spoiler, afterburner rear lights and dark wheels.

Piss off spamulica. Why don't spam bots ever write anything that actually makes sense?

45PSi is about right at idle I think.

I used to have the K800i, must say, the camera quality was amazing, but I hated the phone and the little joystick. But the photo quality was pretty good. I took these photos with it....

You should replace them anyway regardless of stress as you're changing the geometry of the car. :)

If you want adjustable ride height without wanting to go the full coilover route, then the tried and tested quality version of that are GC Coilovers from the US. They use Eibach springs and are a highly rated product by those from over the pond. :)

Why do people bull-crap in car adverts so much. Seller writes.... ...and then writes Someone on here did that with their black Z32. Anyway, looks pretty good value, but as Allan says, strange photos.

It seems to be. My company's continuing to make growth and is anticipating in making growth next year too. Although there has been a slowdown, we're still growing. The company I work for is quite cash-rich anyway with a good strong foot-holding in the market place. So I am quite fortunate. It's a private company still, not a PLC or Corporation, even though it's a multi-national. Still owned by relatives of the founders. So no shareholders to answer to.

Depends what style as to what size you go for. I'd quite happily go up a size to 19" wheels with my current design. Same goes for if I ordered custom fitment BBS LM or the like. Depends on style. A dished wheel will always look slightly smaller and therefore, proportionately, 19" wheels won't always look like 19” wheels. Width, well, on standard arches, I'd say an 8.5 - 9" front and a 9.5 - 10" rear would be a good place to start if you want to get a staggered look, which, IMHO, makes these cars look even more aggressive then they already are. Then there's getting the correct fitment. Make sure you choose a wheel with the right PCD and centrebore as this will determine whether or not your wheel can actually be mounted to the hub!! PCD should be 5 x 114.3mm and centrebore 66.1mm Then it comes to offset, a key of getting the car to sit purposefully on the wheels. To big a offset and the wheels will look really goofy and sit too far inside the wheel arches, to little of an offset and the wheels will stick out too far giving all sorts of rubbing problems. For example sake, we take an 8.5" wheel at the front, the max you can get away with on this width on stock unrolled/fettled arches is about a +20. It'll give the wheel a nice flush look in respect of the wing. I'm running a +25 on my fronts and I'm going to stretch it out a little using spacers to achieve a +20. But, if you're spending shed loads on wheels, then you can design in your own offset. Rears, for example, take an 9.5" wheel. Absolute max on this width with stock/unfettled arches is about a +35 which is what I run. Wheel is completely flush with the rear 1/4. Then comes to style. I personally really like the look of dished wheels with a nice deep lip on the rear. Find it gives the Z a really intimidating, but classy look. 5 spoke, multi-spoke or mesh type design, they all seem to work well on a dished wheel with staggered fitment.

What happened to WhiteZed? LOL

Hope so as the first one was made before you were born! LOL......and me for that matter!

You talking about the old one? Death Race 2000? Old Stalone film. One of the worst films I've ever seen. The only good bit of the film are the titties! Not seen this new one though.

Sorry not been in touch. If you're about tomorrow evening, meet up at Gordano if you want.

...ignore. I was checked out JDM models. Yes, US spec cars were VR-4. They didn't get the lesser powered TT models. I think their lineup was something like the 12v twin cam V6 with 160bhp, the 24v V6 which was over 200 and the VR-4. In Japan, VR-4 was a different model as you could get either 280bhp or the VR-4 which produced 320bhp

VR-4s are higher BHP than the TTs. VR-4 is a seperate model.

Incorrect. VR-4 was something like 320bhp over the stock 280. VR4s come with a large rear spoiler too, so look different from normal TTs.

Suprised people still take their cars there to be honest. Sounds like you're happy though and good luck with it.

BTW, for the record, when I originally went to test drive my Z with Richard Smith and Gio, Richard and myself came back onto a dual carriage-way and what should appear alongside....yup, a GTO TT. I think his car was a little poorly. Bit of blue smoke, but even then, I completely left him for dust. When he did catch up, he roared past with a nice trail of blue smoke coming out of it as I pealed off.

The proportion of cars over 15 years old is sooooooooooooooooooo low that it's not even a scheme that has any value what so ever.

AFAIK, the only 2wd GTOs were in the US....and they were FWD!!!!! GTO was also sold by Dodge as the 'Stealth'. Fortunately, although in later years, Mitsubishi incorporated the Dodge's V6 12valve engine with a miserable 160bhp, it never made it into any Japanese or UK models. Some parts of me like the GTO, others don't. I have a friend with one (Twin Turbo) and it's a great car for what it is. I don't like the interior and from some angles it looks a little odd. Lots of ugly plastic bits stuck all over the body. They have pretty good road presence, low, wide, squatt. I seem to see less GTO/3000GTs than Z32s now. Wouldn't say no to this. VR4 is the model to have really. Although it wasn't my list of cars before choosing the Z, I looked through them and thought about their potential. If I was going to buy some sort of GT/Sports car from Mitsubishi, then it would have to be the Starion. Always liked the appearance of this car. Not the quickest thing in the world and it doesn't handle as well as it could, but it's so retro-cool!

I know, but want all the sensors on mine at 101% before I start increasing the boost. I know 14PSi is pretty safe, but really want my engine performance at its best. So o2 sensors, CTS, fuel filter, uprated air filter, good plugs etc before I even start to ask Mr P about supplying me a new chip and then getting a boost controller. :) Nice to see that good power can still be had out of the VG with little work.

Cracking results Lisa! Same sort of power that I'm after. Good to see it running well.

You got the one that didn't come with mine then!! LOL. Luckily I found a suitable compression washer, so no worries there.

One thing I always do is flush through a litre of additional oil through the engine so any old oil that sat at the bottom of the pan comes out. Our cars take 3.4 litres of oil, so that gives me over a litre to flush out with if buying 5 litres worth. That's one hell of a rigmoral to go through for what is a 10p part!