Funkysi

Bought.....you've said brought twice now. Unless you took it somewhere to get them. ??? These are only $150. It would be more hassle to get someone made up to keep them rigid. I only say this as I've lost track of the number of TTs with silicone intake hoses fitted only for them to have lost shape around the bends. Mainly affects the hoses for the throttles from memory. Just have a look when they're fitted and see if they have held their shape. Some do, but a lot don't. It's just because of the material, silicone has little structural rigidity despite being a tough material.

I'd fit these over the soft silicone ones which don't hold their shape and cause restrictions. https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-upper-intercooler-piping-hardpipe-kit-polished-twin-turbo-tt-nissan-300zx-90-96-z32-14464-hpk-xx_p_1925.php

Thanks! Lots of blood sweat and tears went into it but it was very satisfying, looked great and ran better. I had quite a lot of help too from people in Japan and the US. One particular screw was proving a nightmare to get hold of and that's the little screw on the early cars that secures part of the harness via a little metal clip to one of the offside cam covers. Chris Karl is one of my friends (ZCCA President) with quite a large car and part collection - he has buckets of Nissan fasteners - quite the nerd's paradise). I believe that both those OEM harnesses are now NLA. I wanted to keep the original hoses (took me a long time to get them), 2 Jim actually had and the other two I got on Japan and brought them back in my suitcase! I found that the silicone hoses are just too flexible and have little structural rigidly and actually collapse reducing the aperture considerably. Consider getting Flexi couplings and hard lines (powder coated satin black) if you're able to.

Looking good. Reminded me of when I did my engine bay a renewed and refinished everything and topped it off with a brand new later spec main engine harness and 740cc Nismo injectors. Plus some other new old stock parts that are nigh on impossible to get hold of such as brand new OEM Intake/boost hoses, OEM earth harness and clutch booster U-shaped hose. The only thing missing that I did after that was fit the spring style fuel line clips for the fuel filter and return lines - all other crap jubilee clamps had been removed. It ran so beautifully with the new injectors and engine harness(es). Unbelievably smooth and responsive.

When I had my Z, I had 3600k HIDs because they're the most effective and the mostly likely to look OEM. When you start getting too much blue, it's an instant giveaway (and looks crap/under performs). Originally I have 5000k and even that was too much for me. The main reason that most Z32s emit poor light from their original halogen bulbs is due to dirt build-up on the inside of the projector lens, it's very much worthwhile giving the insides a thorough cleaning too as it can make quite a difference as awkward as it us. I was very lucky in managing to obtain one of the very last sets of brand new original (non HID) RHD headlights, they'd long since gone out of general circulation, but I knew someone who had a brand new pair boxed in his loft. I ran these very briefly with the incandescent bulbs and they were actually pretty good, much better with HIDs obviously, but not bad as stock.

I'd only take it out when it's dry if your garage storing because parking a damp car in a garage is properly bad for the body. There's no hard and fast rule really, we usually get 1 dry salt-free weekend once a month in winter now. Salt won't be thrown for another month at least, I would always avoid salt. Folk say 'wash it off', well, good luck with that as salt will always sit and blow into the areas that you can't reach, ie the areas where it's prone to corrosion and when salt is being thrown, it's normally sub zero so you don't really want to flood your driveway with gallons of water from a jet wash turning it all into an ice skating rink. If you take it out and it's wet or rains, just leave it outside for the underside to fully dry before putting it in the garage.

I'd have just bought the conversion kit to save all the grief. Most parts tend to travel together, a lot of parts that you could buy new are no longer available to purchase anymore. Speak to the guys at Z1 to see if they have any used parts. They'll probably tell you the same though and some are RHD specific so no bueno there. Might be worth a shot. I'd honestly flog what you currently have and put it towards getting all the parts from a full conversion kit.

Don't start it up every few weeks, it's completely pointless. If you're not going to use it, don't start it. As above, all you're doing is prolonging the startup period increasing wear. A healthy engine's wear-state is at its highest from cold start. Don't cold start unless you have to. You'll also be running it on the cold-start portion of the fuel mapping which has a significantly higher fuel mixture; you don't want to risk bore washing. In addition, you'll also get condensation build up both in the oil AND around the electrical contacts in the engine bay. Cold start idling is about the worst thing you can do for an engine. Leave the car switched unless you're actually going to use it. Key to winter storage is GOOD storage. A dry insulated garage with an insulated garage door with a humidity that sits between about 40% and 60%rh is optimum. Appreciate this isn't always possible unless you have a modern home with an integral garage with an insulated garage door (sectional etc). Single skin garages in older properties will stay damp and your rH will be around 80-90% in the winter and will stay high for a long time. High rH will cause the connectors and harnesses to corrode as well as the body (the inner skins will sweat and encourage rot and plated metal will break down), too low an rH will cause rubbers, seals and plastics to dry out which can encourage leaks, issues with bushes, belts and dampers . If your garage is in any way damp, you're probably best leaving it outside as the car will just sweat if it's not aerated and will stand damp for longer. Good car storage is a bit of a dark art; they say not to store cars as it causes problems which can be true however good storage is absolutely fine and you'll do it a massive favour as opposed to driving it in the salty damp crap of a UK winter. Z32s are not known for having good rust prevention by design - I've seen too many completely rotten Z32s and it's not pretty and expensive to put right. If you have access to GOOD storage then do the following: over inflate the tyres slightly, park it up, leave it in gear, hand brake off, windows slightly cracked and plug it into a C-TEK or even unhook the battery. Not as straight forward for more modern cars which need a charged battery at all times, but older cars like the Z32, you can and you won't need to reprogram things or worry about check lights for things with a CANBUS system. When you come to start the car after lay up, pop the bonnet, take out the fuel pump relay and crank the engine a few times until the oil light goes out to build up the oil pressure, drive to your nearest petrol station, full up with quality high octane fuel, check tyre pressures and you're good to go. This is all you need to do for good storage, but check your quality of storage. You can buy humidity sensors for peanuts. You can buy dehumidifiers but they're incredibly costly to run.

I'd try and see if you can still get an original spoiler from Nissan. I've not seen a single replica spoiler which fits properly. I had mine painted a Lamborghini metallic white (was originally KH6, the pre-94 tri-stage pearl white). I swapped all my glass out too for blue tint rather than the original bronze tint, yours should be blue as it's a 96,

Do like a Huracan STO. A friend of mine (the chap who actually stored my Aston whilst my new house was being built) just sold his Perfomante and that was a bit of a beast. Sadly didn't get to go out in this as he sold it on fairly quickly to make way for an F8 Tributo.

I can't make my mind up on it. I want to like it, but it just doesn't quite work for me. The front doesn't tie in with the back. Keen to see it in person to gauge perspective before I write it off completely. Mind you, I wasn't overly keen on the 370Z when it first launched although it grew on me and then when Autec produced the NISMO version, I became a changed man. I then drove one non-stop (nearly 12 hours in each direction) from Cleveland in Ohio all the way down to Tuscaloosa in Alabama about 3 years ago and really enjoyed it. The same can't be said for their last version, the 50th Anniversary which IMO, looked dreadful. I hope I grow to like the new Z though.

T.50 is incredible but looks bizarre. All function over form!

I take that back, Valkyrie is lighter and not just by a bit, it's a LOT lighter, some 1,500lbs lighter (about the weight of a poverty spec MK1 Golf). Half a second quicker to 60, top speed is 250mph over AMG-One's 215. Valkyrie trumps it on every single level.

Being a Merc fan and an Aston fan, I'll go for the Valkyrie. AMG One just hasn't quite matched the hype for me although it is an incredible car. AMG One sounds like a modern F1 car which is exactly what it should do as it uses a version of the F1 Power Unit. Valkyrie sounds like the F1 cars of yore which we miss so much. Both amazing cars, but the Valkyrie for pure theatre alone although technically, I think Valkyrie makes better use of its Adrian Newey designed aero. Expect AMG One is lighter.

Here's a great idea, put a spare wheel in it. ?

The best rust proofing is to garage it and not to use it in the winter or when it's wet. ? After owning mine for 15 years and living by that rule, when I sold it, it was still minty fresh underneath, zero welding, no rust. Clean as a whistle - thankfully, the new owner still keeps it that way. ?

I had the pleasure of sitting in an R390. ? Amazing cars. The origins of the engines in these later went on to power McLaren road cars in a heavily modified form.

Having heard Z32 exhausts the world over (litterally), the most impressive sounding are without doubt the ABFLug/Veilside systems as well as the B&B system from the US, not a lot comes close for exotic refinement. In terms of visual appeal, that's a tie up between ABFlug and B&B. I had a Veilside Evolution system on my Z32, it sounded wonderful, not quite as nice as the ABFlug to look at although they used the same manufacturers to produce and used the same cans (they sounded identical) but the ABflug Superior system wins on looks although nigh on impossible to find anymore.

I can't believe how cheap DB9s have got now. They reached the bottom of their depreciation curve a few years ago. Early DB9s do have some issues sadly which have affected their values, catalyst ingestion and V12 'tick' cost huge amounts to put right, something thankfully V8 Vantage doesn't suffer from, V12 Vantage doesn't either as the design issues on early V12 engines were put right apart from cat ingestion on the primaries. My Vantage Roadster seems to have held its value better, there are much fewer Vantage Roadsters that hard tops and their values hold up a bit better. I paid £37k for it which was a premium at the time as went for the best example of the early version that I could find and I bought it through a supercar dealership and it hasn't lost anything since, good examples of early Roadsters are worth high 30s/low40s still and general values are increasing. It's got some very expensive 'lightweight' option wheels on it which were a £12k-£15k option from AM and as dealer fit - it's an all-options-ticked car with the exception of the Premium sound system.

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I have PPF on my Aston Martin, companies such a Topaz can produce CAD templates for your car, smaller companies will either buy templates or cut on the car. Not sure where you're based, but go to Topaz or similar (they have sites in West London and Bristol).

You might want to order that transmission sooner rather than later. I believe availability is depleting fairly quickly.

No words.

Good to see my old wheels still going strong!