Funkysi

MJP gets them in occasionally too, you could also speak to Luke at ZCentre.

It depends on the environment mainly. Rubber degrades, as do all oil based products, they all have a finite lifespan. Jimmer did my cam belt last weekend for my peace-of-mind and it was originally fitted 8 years ago when he built my engine. He took off my old one (my Z has done 20k since he built it) and the belt was actually in fine condition, but we decided to replace it anyway. My car however is never driven in the winter or in wet weather and it dry-stored in a doubled-skinned integral garage, so any of the rubbers on the car have had the most minimal of exposure to the elements which is why my old cam belt still looked pretty new. We replaced the top roller, but everything else felt tight. Cars that are left out in the open and driven in all seals will have definitely seen their belts and rubbers degrade and significantly more.

No, I like it, but I don't think it's better or nicer than the original TT bumper.

Not at all. You'd always use one as a donor anyway. Nothing to do with cost. The cost will actually be more as I am buying another driveshaft to use as a donor rather than the one already on my car.

What do you want to know about them? They used to (not sure if they still do) manufacture for a number of European OEMs back in the 80s and 90s, so they're half decent in terms of quality.

Bottom 2 look the best! Those Bomex mirrors....or are they Veilside ones look dreadful! Thalidomide springs to mind whenever I see those.

My father lived in Portugal in the 70s. Used to teach English as a foreign language at Coimbra University.

Hahahahahahaah!! That's friggin' hilarious! :rofl: :lol:

Then leave the bugger in peace! :lol: :rofl: ;)

No, no and NOT!!!! The chroming of stock headlamps is something that has now thankfully been confined to the sin-bin of the past and long may it stay there! :) Chromed stock headlights were all the rage about 10 years ago and BOY do they look dreadful!! lol

With only 80k on the clock and in seemingly very good condition (although non original colour coding), I think it will get closer to £3k.

Thanks for the link Paul, much appreciated!

Must - - - Updated - - - ..be an iPhone!

Can't say I look at the Focus, even the ST and go 'mmmm, that's a nice car' despite it being a decent hot hatch. Grim colour doesn't help its cause. ...but the Z, now that's another story! :)

Personally I'd stay with a stock setting. Your alignment place will recommend what they can set it to. It also depends on what wheels/tyres you have fitted. You might want to dial in a little more negative camber, especially if you track it. I think that the stock settings are best IMO. You'll get more even tyre wear too. Bear in mind that you don't have a huge amount of adjustability with stock rear arms and none with stock front arms.

:whistling:

Good luck! Looks like you have quite an interesting selection of vehicles already!

They did all come with CL as standard. There's only one actuator though. If your other Z had remote CL then it would have had to have had another actuator fitted in the drivers' door also which is probably what you're noticing.

Probably easier to note with a manual engine bay:

They're not really detuned as such, but they use different cams and slightly smaller turbos. They just develop the power slightly differently to cope with the lack of gears that the auto box has. There's a bracket that sits about your PAS pot which is there to hold the auto transmission loom and isn't found on manual Z32s. It also has an auto balance tube. They're slightly different and have pipework in different locations. If it's been sat and you have no previous history, then a compression check, followed by a connector clean followed by a full service are the very first things I would do. :)

I hate my iPhone. I am counting the days until the end of my contract and will be promptly going back to Android! lol :)

God damn Kev!! So glad my arse is rot free!! Looks like the job that's being done is pretty good! :)

Couple of questions : Firstly, how long has it been sat? Secondly, it's not quite so important, but the engine spec will be slightly different, but did you know yours started life as an auto? I'd start with giving every single connector a thorough clean, the engine bay doesn't look like it's seen much love and attention in some years. Connectors are the common cause of poor running. Check the timing too, your CAS looks like it's quite corroded, so might need a bit of persuasion. I'd also replace the cam belt, water pump, tensioners and aux belts if you're unsure as to when they were last changed. It's also worth doing a compression check before you do any of that though, just for peace of mind. The arches will indeed need to be cut out to fix that. If your sills have collapsed due to poor jacking, make sure that the rear targa drain holes haven't been closed shut as a result. If arches are on their way out, then it's likely the sills will have started rotting from the inside. Pop off the rear 1/4 trim and look down inside to see what you can see.

Welcome to the pearl white club! I saw that Z on eBay earlier and thought it looked pretty straight. :) Hope you replace those rear lights and wing indicators though! That's essential! :)