SirMixalot

Sorry mate so did you actually overheat or did the heater just go cold? Obviously when you take the cap off a normal radiator it will "go whoosh"and throw steam everywhere if it is hot and you will then have to fill up again - as you did. If your bleed screw is knackered why dont you order another one off Mike @ MJP? cant imagine it will cost you more than a couple of quid!

Good tip - thanks Blue Nik - I am going to order one tomorrow!

Just realised I didnt answer Vijay's question - no mate I can't hear it when it should be going back.

Thanks Smithy! "Either source a Nissan one or borrow one for a couple of hours from a nearby zedder to eliminate that as the cause." I have ordered one today off ebay - its a standard one though i notice that some of the upgrades seem to have different opening pressures. Unbelievably, Lythgoe Nissan were unable to source a radiator cap even after giving them my chassis number. The guy on the phone sounded as though he had never heard of a Zed! "You happy the viscous fan is working correctly at speed ?" Not sure about how to test this mate? Excuse my ignorance but is this the Radiator fan? in which case it seems to be working fine as far as i can tell. "Can you list exactly what jobs you had done whilst repairing the split pipe. " Not huge amounts just brake strip/servicing, installation of SS brake line, fitted HID lights / ballasts, Apexi induction, Oil and filter change, Head gasket sniffer test. "Oh and with engine running, have you unscrewed the air bleed screw on top of the rad until water appears to be wanting to come out ?" Yes - have done this. To my mind the water seems to escape only after hard driving and when the temp needle shows overheating I usually have to replace about two litres in the radiator. As above, the MAIN leak seems to come from the area underneath the passenger headlight and a smaller one at the area under the oil filler cap but could these be due to expansion tank dumping??

Brilliant post

Cheers Darrell Im never quite sure when the water is overflow or when its been dumped from the engine! Further development today: System was pressure tested and the guy at the garage said he couldnt find a leak anywhere. Since the head gasket tests have been negative as well I can only assume its the rad cap or a really difficult to find leak that only occurs under very high pressures. After topping up the radiator i can drive it around without any problem as long as i treat it sensibly and there is no leaking or dripping from underneath. If I give it the full beans however, the needle starts rising within a couple of minutes, I get dripping from underneath the car (mainly an area underneath the passenger side Headlight), and the is a loud "bubbling" sound coming from the area of the passenger headlight (as far as i can make out). Does anyone have any idea what the fk is going on with my car? If I could find the problem I could get o with actually fixing it!! At the moment I am looking for a performance Radiator cap on Ebay - is there any advantage with these over a standard cap?

I had exactly the same problem with the windscreen - oily white crap that took ages to clean. I ended up having to change my heater matrix - at the time i was told it was a good idea to put a brand new one in since if you are going to go to all the effort of fitting one you don't want to have to repeat it in a years time. I think it might be possible to fit a Primera series II matrix but its worth doing a search on that.

Worth every Damn penny.

Ha ha brilliant guys!! Never thought of that!! I was having the cooling system pressure tested by a garage today - I mentioned the problem with the seat to them and they have managed to put it back in its normal position but i dont know how they did this. Gentle testing with the switch still reveals it goes forwards but not back. I am a bit puzzled by this since I assumed there was just one motor and reversing the charge polarity through it made it go forward or back. Once its light I will check the track for coins but if there arent any there does anyone have ay further ideas? Cheersz guys - love this forum!

Uh Oh no you dont as I seem to have become a registered user overnight!! Saz any chance of asking Andy about my electric seat problem? I forgot to mention tom him yesterday as I was doing my nut about the car!!

Hello ther Saz - you have PM!

Small world TurboZ - YOU pulled over when my tyre shredd on the M61 - many thanks for that - isnt the Z world small and amazing? Now you are part of the story we will have JackBlack play you in the film looking at the screen and saying "Man that is one LOONG M*thaf*ckin post!

Some idiot jammed my passenger electric seat in the forward position when valeting the car - now the forward/backward switch doesnt work (silent when i press "forward" and a little clunk when i press "back") and i can only carry passengers with REALLY short legs now!! For some reason the seat lower/raise control still works fine. So !. Is there a simple way to fix this? 2. I presume there isnt a seperate fuse for the raise/lower and forward/back controls. 3. Can I MANUALLY reset the seat where it should be? 4. I have read a thread about reversing the positive/negative lead so I can move the seat but anyone have a step by step for a relative techie novice? Thanks again guys!!

A lesson about overheating! (long post) One of the pipes behind the engine split a couple of weeks ago - it was duly replaced and i had a couple of other bits and pieces done at the same time. I got the usual advice to cary around soe water with me, park uphill and keep topping it up over the next few days to get rid of the airlocks. Well, I had been driving around without any problems for a few days and only had to top up about 50mls total. Today I was happily pootling down the motorway when I noticed my temperature needle beginning to rise (only a few degrees but it wasn't at its normal resting place bang in the middle) - Aha! i thought - I'll put on the heater at 40 degrees and pull over if it gets worse . I drove for another ten minutes and the needle didnt get any worse - in fact it settled down the normal level - brilliant I thought. Then, whilst i was crawling along a slip road towarda a roundabout in the blazing sun the engine suddenly died out. I was surprised I had stalled it and tried to restart but it wouldnt. I sat there for about five minutes and tried again - engine sprang into life and I pulled over onto the hard shoulder. Opened the bonnet and there was a general fog of steam hovering over the engine but I couldnt particularly tell where it was coming from. Using a towel I carefully opened the radiator after the engine had cooled a bit and there was hardly any water in it!!! I thought i would wait further whilst things cooled down before adding any more water. Whilst I was waiting a van pulls up on the hard shoulder - chap jumps out and introduces himself and gets on with looking over my car - its none other than the legendary AndyDuff - God of Z Techincal knowledge! He looked my car over and suggested a couple of things I needed to do like swapping my knackered rad cap and getting a compression test in the cooling system then he jumped in his van and was off - BIG THANKS again Andy for your kind help. So I filled up with water ad slowly drove to my mate's house.The radiator was almost completely empty though without an obvious leak!!! Needle stayed right where it should be but when I got there I could hear an angry "bubbling sound" from the front right corner of the engine and on looking at the rad cap there was a bit of whistling and steam escaping from it. Looking underneath the car there seemed to be two main areas that were dripping. First one was approximately in the area where the radiator filler cap would be if you dropped a straight line from its normal position to the ground. Second drip was in approximately the area where the OIL filler cap would be if you dropped a straight line to the ground. In both cases there wasnt a huge amount of water coming out and it seemed to stop relatively quickly. Left the car six hours - topped up the radiator again and it took about two litres of water (I dont knwo how much of this was previous airlocks as i had left he car parked upwards). I watched it for a while but when the car was stationary and at rest the radiator level didnt drop at all. I put the cap back on and drove home - no problems at all with overheating or dumping water though I did notice a trail of drips coming from approx the front passenger headlight when i stopped once. Radiator cap was rock solid. I'm therefore quite puzzled as to what has actually happened to the damn thing. 1. I definitely need a pressure test which I am going to do this morning 2. I need a rad cap - I know there are various "performance"ones e.g. Nismo - anyone got any experience of these and the best place to get one from on a Saturday morning or should I stick with a standard cap (in which case where can i get one of those on a sat morning)? 3. Do I have a leak at the bottom of the engine or was the water just from the expansion/overflow/AC tank? (it was cold water BTW) And lesson learned - if your temperature needle goes up STOP and investigate. As AndyDuff explained I put on my heaters at full chat and thought I had solved the problem as the needle came back to normal - in fact because the coolant level was heating up the temp gauge rose and when it leaked out of an unknown location it got to the stage where the temperature probe was no longer being dipped in the stuff so the needle started to fall again EVEN THOUGH THE TEMPERATURE OF THE ENGINE WAS STILL GOING UP!! no signs of HG failure at roadside and it was chemical sniffer tested two days ago whikst in garage - all negative. So any ideas peeps?? cheers (sorry about the long post)

from merriam webster Main Entry: chasm Pronunciation: \'ka-z*m\ (*\ pronounced as e in kitten) Function: noun Etymology: Latin chasma, from Greek; akin to Latin hiare to yawn — more at yawn Date: 1596 1 : a deep cleft in the surface of a planet (as the earth) : gorge 2 : a marked division, separation, or difference So you are right!!

Hiya Paul mate I sent you a PM and left a message on your answerphone!!

How do you fill the tyres with nitrogen if you have a puncture?

I'm sure it will polish out! Are you sure he wasnt cut out of it by the fire service?

But on the other hand, the way I see it is you COULD buy a reasonably quick ALfa brand new - the minute you drive it off the forecourt its lost a third of its value - sell it after three years and you would have kittens at the money lost through depreciation. You can pick up a really good used Zed from an enthusiast - you have a great chance of getting a good one if you are patient and when you come tosell it it is pretty much at the bottom of its depreciation curve - i.e. you pay running costs plus maintenance during the time you own it. I think its an important consideration to take into account - all cars with this kind of performance will return relatively similar figures!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaJNZ0dpAmI

Not sure how much it would be mate but have you thought about a colour that would contrast your paintwork a little more?

Tried both and definitely prefer the looks and drive of the SWB!! Even Gran Tourismo says the SWB is when Nissan got serious about prodiucing an out and out sports car!!

keep it!! looks like a really nice example - and what good are your nexus gauges going to b on the shelf? Fit 'em and give yourself a treat! anyway what are you going to replace the Zed with? Are you going to be happy sitting in your (more pricey but inferior) car adn seeing a gorgeous well-specced Zed drive by and think - that could have been me?

looks clean and modern - love it!

Here you go mate: http://www.holymoly.co.uk/g/corner/fitness-first-74870.html