Hans

Hi, Have recently developed an intermittent misfire on 'low revs' (around 1500 - 2000 mainly) and this when going 'light' on accelerator. If I floor it (or just have a bit of heavy right foot), then there is no misfire at all. I also get a bit of 'splutter' and the odd 'light back fire' when going off accelerator and decelerate (again this mainly happen when revs pass around 1500 - 2000). Car is a manual NA. Spent a bit of time looking into this today, and have determined that it is the 'left bank' (even cylinders) that has the misfire (can hear clearly that it is in left exhaust - right sounds perfect). Cleaned out injector, coil pack and ECU temp sensor connectors, but has not made any difference. Checked injector resistance and injector 6 (left bank - rear) have a reading of 14.7 ohm, which is a little bit higher then the rest (they are 12 - 12.8 ohm). Have replaced injector 3 and 4 before and when they went the reading was 80 - 120 ohm (from memory - I know it was much higher then around 12 ohm that I understand is what we should have). I suspect (guess) that injector 6 is on way out, but is 14.7 ohm 'high enough' for it to cause misfire ?

Cannot remember the exact difference between TT and NA clutch. But not a direct replacement. MJP (UK based and in trader section) would have them, drop him a line and you get sorted. I got one recently from CZP.US, and they also have them. Both would be stocking genuine Nissan items. I got a non-branded clutch a few years ago (ended up in hurry) and it was a waste of money. It has not lasted well at all, so I would make sure to get good quality (original, Sachs, Excedy or similar). I am sticking with original, since the first that was fitted in the car when produced lasted a long time, and I want to see the back of having to do this again. One additional seal that I suggest that you get when changing the crank seal is the 'rear oil pan seal' (cost is minimal). I missed to get this, and then it broke when taking the crank seal retainer out. I would suggest to get: - Crank Seal - Crank Seal retainer gasket - Rear oil pan seal

Take the opportunity to change the crankshaft seal (engine) and the gearbox input and output seals when you have the gearbox out of the car. The seals do not cost a lot, and takes limited extra time when box is already out. I recently got NA clutch and seals (+ some other bits) from czp.us. Cost a bit in shipping (and potentially also in import duty - in Ireland it usually slips through the customs net:biggrin:)

It got to be gearbox in my case. I have the whine when 'standing still / parked', and having clutch depressed, so diff should not be moving then.

Service Manual is opening box from the back and working forward. Have searched further and looked at a rebuild that has a fair level of photos taken from a Pathfinder gearbox rebuild (believe Pathfinder and Z32 share same FS5R30A box - but with different bell housings and probably ratios) and there it is split from back. If anyone has done a rebuild or opened / split a manual box and have experience it would be good to get confirmation if only way to get input shaft bearing is in essence a full disassemble of box. I am hesitant to split box, since it has no issues except this whining that really only is noticeable when cold.it is running well in all aspects (except some whining when cold). Car has about 190.000 km, so bearings will not be new any longerHave MT-90 to go into box, which may help, but if it is not too

I have a bit if whining from gearbox when in neutral and clutch 'not pressed' (de-pressed), which gets better when warm (then you cannot hear that much of it). It has been there for years, and not really got much worse, but I am going to swap Clutch in coming weeks, and tempted to see if I could change the 'Input shaft bearing' without too much work when it is out of car. Know that 'slight whine' may be from other bearings on main shaft, but suspect that input bearing is the most likely. Can you swap the input shaft bearing without splitting the whole box? What I look to determine is if it can be done by taking the front cover plate off (which will be taken off to replace front seal anyway).

Hi, My AC is working and blows cool air, but sometimes (especially if car has been used and then only parked for 15 minutes) it is like the air is not getting into the car. It can also happen when driving, and then it happens after about 20 - 30 minutes. The amount / volume of air that will pass through the vents in the dash will reduce to about 20% of normal. I can hear the fan still running, and some air is getting through. Also if I change (it is a 1993 Series 2 car with Auto Climate which I can manually change direction of air on) the direction of air, it seem like it is making a difference, and air distribution is changing (a bit hard to say, since volume of air is low). If the car is parked over night and I start in the morning, it all works fine with lots of air getting into car. It is a bit like no air is getting into the 'blower unit', and I suspect that this electrical and one of the motors (or sensors) that control the climate system that intermittently is acting up (which makes it harder to figure out what is wrong). Looked a bit and believe that the 'mode door motor' is prone to fail. Have anyone experienced this and have it appeared similar / same. Any help / advise that can be shared would be appreciated.

Nice to see that there is still a few around. There getting quite rare here now.

Hi, I get quite sever 'clutch judder' when the car is warm (and it is worse if it is warm outside) and starting from both 1st and reverse gear. It makes strong vibrations especially if I have driving for a while and everything under the bonnet is warm. It feels fine when starting and the car is cold. The car is a stock car (1993 NA - which I have had for 12 years) and the clutch has only been used for two summers (about 10.000 km), since I keep the car off the road for the winter. It would be a standard clutch that was fitted (cannot remember what brand it was), and it has really started to become very noticable in the last 2.500 km. There are no visibile oil leaks, and also the seals on both ends (engine and gearbox) was swapped when the clutch was fitted. - Would this be a problem with the clutch (even though the it is only two years old) ? - Can it be engine mounts ? (and is there a way to determine if it is the mounts that have not been changed) Any help / advise would be appreciated.

If this is a air leak in the brake booster, would it be likely an 'internal leak' (i.e. inside the booster) ? Or would it be vacuum pipes that are more likely to be the cause ? / Hans

Hi, Have not posted here for ages, but I am now having a problem that I am struggeling to get to the bottom of. Had the Z'ed (1993 NA) for 12 years and so far managed to sort most things myself. The issue is the 'feel' in the brake pedal after driving for a while (and also after leaving the car just to idle for 20 - 30 minutes). The pedal is nice and firm when it is cold, but when it get hot under the bonnet there is a spongy feel if you keep pressing the pedal for 30 - 60 seconds (feels OK to start with and it passed the Irish NCT - MOT eqvivalent without any problems as it is now). After pressing for a while the pedal start to slowly give, and will get closer to the floor. Have replaced the brake fluid, and I do not think that there is any air in the system (have bleed a few times). I cannot see any leak anywhere and I am from what I can see not loosing any brake fluid (no need to top up - it is still plenty of fluid in container). Could this be a problem with a Brake Master that is on its way out ? Any help, so that I can find the reason would be highly appreciated. / Hans

Thanks for info. Will get a rear crank seal and then line up my local garage for the swap.

The clutch on my -93 NA Manual import (used as my daily drive for 10 years now) is reaching end of life and I have a new "clutch kit" but I am guessing that there are "other things" that I should consider to swap at the same time as I get the gearbox out. Any advise of what should be swapped at the same time at the clutch would be highly appreciated. / Hans

Got this sorted with a new injector (from eBay US), as the old was dead. My local mecanic did the swap using the dremmel method, and it was easy according to him. I changed the injector connector at the same time as the injector to have a new / clean (no green gunk) electrical connection. Have worked fine since, and would definately look at the dremmel method again if I need to swap injectors later.

My 300zx is misfiring, and I have narrowed it down to cylinder no 4 (mid cyl left bank). Have changed the coil pack and no success, and today also swapped the injector connector and cleaned the injector it self. Tried with an "ohm meter" directly on the injector and I get a resistance of approx. 3.25 kOhm (yes kilo ohm). This does not sound OK to me, but is there someone that know what resistance that I should read. If it is the injector, have anyone swapped no.4 using the "dremmel method" or will in be plenum off. If it is plenum off, is there other things that I should get swapped at the same time. Also, any idea how long time it will take a garage to lift plenum and swap injector ?

My "fluid warning light" was on for a while (until the car got warm in the morning) when my pads was getting worn (it was about a year ago). The level was still OK when looking at the reservoir, but the light came on for about 10-15 min especially when driving up hill and the car was cold. Top up with some fluid or change the pads. I would think that it is teh "fluid warning switch" that is causing the light to come on. You can disconnect the conector from the reservoir cap when it is on (leave the hand brake off on a flat surface with teh engine on) and if this turn teh light off you have found teh reason. / Hans

If one (or sevaral) of the temp sensors are faulty (or disconnected) you will get "very hot air". I had one sensor disconnected for a few weeks a few years ago when I replaced the heater matrix and the heater was on "full" until I got the sensor reconnected. Run a "AC diagnostic" and you will get info about which senor(s) that may be faulty. The diagnostic only takes a few minutes and will point you in the right direction.

The aircon should still work with the heater matrix by-passed. I had my matrix by-passed for a while and it is OK until you hit winter. So, as long as you get it sorted before thw winter you should be OK. I swapped my matrix myself and used the "dash in method". Took me a few hours (approx. 4 if I remember correct) to change and you can buy the matrix from the US at a much better price then you will get in the UK / Europe. The matrix is the same, just swap the two short pies that are connected to the matrix from your old one and you will have "a complete one" that fit a RHD. / Hans

I have a 93 (Series 2) NA and it is only very late Jap NAs that have 30 mm discs (probably after 95/96). I am very sure that your 91 model will have 26 mm discs. Mine had 26 mm set-up and I have now changed to TT set-up with 30 mm discs. Believe that US spec NAs got 30mm discs earlier (during 91) compared to Jap spec. / Hans

If it is less then 2 years since you cancelled your old insurance (on 200SX), I believe that you should be able to get a statement from your old insurer with regards to your old No Claims. Believe that this could work, but not 100% sure. Give your old insurer a call and check if they will/can provide a statement of your old No Claims.

Get in touch with a Motor Factor or order some from either the US or the UK (try one of the traders here). I do no use Nissan Ireland for any parts since there quotes always tend to be the most expensive you can get. I have had my car over 5 years, and my view is that you are better off importing parts from the US if not urgent or use the like of MJP (or other trader on this forum). Better service and lower prices.

I think that you have "US spec" lights at the front. Similar to the Jap spec, but the fogs do not have "side lights" and you have the amber part in the "corner unit".

My PTU went a few years ago and when it happened the car just died when it was getting warm. After leaving it for 30 - 45 minutes to cool down it would start and run OK until warm again. You may get other prolems then this from the PTU, but this is what happened to me when my PTU went. You should be able to determine if it is the PTU if you run an ECU diagnostic. / Hans

Last winter I also had problems with "Targa leak". The water entered on the drivers side at what sounds similar to the location of your leak (At the front outside corner (plastic end) of the targa). Turned out that the water was leaking "under" (yes under) the seals that are fitted to the body of the car body. The last 5 - 10 cm of the seal that goes along the top of the windscreen was the problem, and got it sorted by taking the seal off and put silicone on the metal "edge" (body of the car) before refitting the seal. Never leaked since, so was definately my problem, but yours could be different.

Hi, This link to the AUS 300ZX forum should give you the information you need. http://www.neuralmotion.com/forum/tech/acfan.htm /// Hans