Hans

They are definately OEM. I do however believe that the option for this model of mudguards was only available in Japan (JDM), so look out for someone breaking a J-spec car that have them fitted. You will probably find most of these in UK, Australia and Ireland but you may be lucky and find one in the US. One of the traders here that are breaking cars may be able to help if you are prepared to pay shipping etc.

Water in the footwell would be the heater matrix. I have changed mine and I did the by-pass as to allow for use of the car when awaiting the parts. You can bypass the matrix "at the back of the enging". I used a "fairly long" (close to 1 meter) standard hose that you can buy for next to nothing at your local motor factor. I then let it do a long turn as to not obstruct the flow to much (Do not think the flow is critical in any way). I would not get a second hand matrix, as the fitting is a bit of a PITA. The cheapest (as far as I know) would be to buy one from the US (Courtesy Nissan). They are the same as RHD except that you have to swap the inlet/outlet pipes from your old. These do not wear (normally) so they should be OK. / Hans

The rear are 6x4 inches, and are easy to swap. Without modifications to the "metal bracket" that the original front speakers are fitted to, you can fit 5.25 inch (13 cm) speakers without any problem. The hole in the bracket is 13cm if I remember correct and the outside (that you fit the speaker to) would be approx 15.3 - 15.5 cm. Believe that a few have fitted 6.5 inch speakers, but as far as I can see this would require modifications to the metal bracket that you fit the speaker to. I replaced my old front speakers (6.5 inch that did not fit properly and sounded really bad) for a decent set of 5.25 inch speakers and it was a substantial improvement. You just have to drill new holes in the metal bracket to fit then.

Quit sure that the 9006 is not the same as the H3 and H3C that we have in the European and Jap. spec Z32. I think that a different bulb and fitting (9006) was used in the US models, so I do not think that they are a direct replacement.

I got mine from Mike (MJP), but you can apparently use the US version. The pipes that are connected to the heater matrix are different on the US version (LHD). If the pipes are OK (which I would think) you can get the US matrix and then swap the pipes over from your old (RHD) matrix. They are easy to remove (and if you do not take the dash out you will need to disconnect them (I did the job with the dash in on my -93 manual car). Remember that you have to add shipping, customs duty and VAT to the US price.

Think that the easiest is to remove the fuel pump relay. You will find the fuel pump relay inside the car. In the drivers footwell on the side in front of the door. It is located a bit behind the rest of the fuses (that you will reach by taking the normal cover off). You will need to remove the "whole plastic panel" around the area to get to the fuel pump relay. It is easy, and will only take a minute or two to remove the panel. You can also check the folowing link, as it is a step-by-step for doing the fuel filter: http://www.ttzd.com/tech/fuelfiltertech.html The relay is in the same place for RHD and LHD (at least in mine) and I also recall that it was "bright green". You will also find an "EGR guide" under: http://www.ttzd.com/tech/engine/egr.html

White smoke would most likely either be water (condensation in exhaust or coolant) or oil that is being "heated" and not burnt. If the car is warm (i.e. you have been driving for some time) condensation in the exhaust should disappear. If the cause would be coolant, I would suspect head gasket, so check if you are loosing coolant. If you are not loosing coolant, it is potential that it is "heated oil", as I believe that this is supposed to cause white smoke and not blue as you would get when it is burnt. The oil would need to get into the exhaust without being burnt. Think that turbo seals or problems with the PCV valves could cause this.

I am not sure how long a "faulty gasket" could last before it really gives way. Guess that it may depend on how much and how you are driving, but also how "lucky" you are. But if it is going, it is just a matter of time. I think that the gasket can leak without mixing the fluids, it would depend on where the leak is. To get it sorted you will need to replace the gasket, you cannot repair a faulty gasket other then replacing it. There are different ways of determing if the gasket is gone. A compression test could give you an idea to start with. Garages (and maybe Nissan did this for you) can do a "cylinder leakage test" that I think is the best way of determining if it is gone. Another thing you can do is to take the radiator cap off (with a cold engine), start the engine and look for "small bubbles" in the coolant. If you get a stream of small bubbles, one of the garkets are leeking.

Put in a search for "Heater Matrix Article" on this forum and you will get a few hits for posts related to the problem. There is an article (attached to the posts) in a few of them that will explain what is going on.

Check for earth leaks. Think that they are know to be a "heather matrix killer".

Charles, Please check your PM or SMS me on +46730371609 and I will give you a call. They guy that can carry the parts need them Thursday evening to be able to help. / Hans