Hans

The first problem (speedo dropping from 80 to 60 mph) sounds like it could be the speed sensor. Guess that there is a risk that the conenction was touched when the exhaust was fitted (I think the sensor is on the side of the gearbox). I would check the cable/connector to the speed sensor first. Also, it could be a "speedo converter box" (if you have one) that is acting up, but you have just changed the exhaust. The second problem sounds like "clutch throw out bearing" related problem to me. The Throw Out Bearing would engage when you press the clutch pedal.

Works fine if you keep your old pipes. No problem at all and it only takes a few minutes to swap them around.

I also have an early -93 Series 2 car and I have R12 in mine. There is a sticker under the bonnet that indicates the type of gas. Mine has R12 on it and the amount that the system is loaded with. If I remember correct the sticker is just behind the passenger side headlight.

A -91 NA (Jap Spec) will have 26mm discs unless changed by previous owner. My -93 had 26mm discs before I changed for TT set-up. I think that the US spec NAs got TT discs earlier then Jap Spec.

NA and TT pads are the same. The discs and calipers differ. You can fit TT calipers and discs to an NA without any problem (got to swap both) and it is much easier (and cheaper) to get hold of new TT discs (30 mm) here in Europe.

Will not get any photos today, as we are off to Cork for the weekend (and enjoy a few extra miles in the Zed). I tool the nut off the adjusted at the level. The end is "square-ish" and as to allow the square end to be pulled longer into the car, I took a nut that was a bit bigger (probably 2 sizes) compared to the one fitted, and used as a "thick washer" as to be able to tighten the wire. You just have to check that the "washer nut" is just about the size for letting the square end of the wire through and you should be able to sort without any problem.

Had this problem myself aswell. I did not know about any adjustment under the car, so what I did was to place a nut (just big enough) at the end of the adjustment in the car (at the lever), as to pull the wire longer into the cabin. Was very easy and did the trick for me. Be careful with the diameter so that it will allow the wire to be pulled furter into the car, and does not get "stuck" on the nut.

You will need discs that are 26mm for the NA. I believe that all Jap NA cars have these even though they used 30mm (same as TT) on later NA models in the US. My NA (Jap Import) from -93 had (have now changed for TT set-up) 26 mm discs when I got it.

Hi, Not to raise to many alarm bells, but I have heard about similar stories from Sweden (I am originally from Sweden but living in Ireland) and they have turned out being scams. It has been LHD performance/luxury cars (in the UK that they want to sell on export due to being LHD) that the owner will send prior to payment being made. The car is usually "prices very low" compared to the usual European market price. They have wanted to get "shipping payed" through "money transfer" and allow you to return the car if you do not like it. False shipping documents using names of well known "courier companies" are used as to say that the car is in transit and they want their "shipping payment" (before car arrives). Car will in these scams not arrive, and the "shipping charge" via money transfer is long gone. Communication from these scams have been e-mail and mobile phone numbers as I understand. They can/will call as to build trust. They can send loads of images over e-mail apparently and also quote VIN numbers, which may be valid or fake. This car may be genuine, but be careful and make sure that someone you trust can view/check it before you part with any money. The information I have is from a "reputable Swedish car magazine" (Teknikens Varld)that answered to one of these adds (Mercedes SL) and later printed a story on this as to show the type of scam that is going on. / Hans

I do not think that it has anything to do with the clutch. When in "no gear" and running the car the noise disappear when the clutch is pressed would mean that when the internals of the gearbox stop turning the noise disappear. I would think that the noise is coming from the gearbox and that it is likely that at least a part of it is coming from bearing(s) that would be connected to the engine side of the gearbox.

Hi, You can find similar once at B&Q (Yes it is true) or other garden centres, as there is a 15W version of the same bulb that is used in some garden lights. You would not be able to see any difference between 13W and 15W, so they should work OK. Have seen them myself at B&Q in Ireland so should be available in UK.

Could maybe be related to breaks and the front calipers. I am about to re-build (re-seal) my calipers as they are starting to get a little bit sticky and there is a bit of "sound" from them when driving before they get warm and the "stickyness" disappear.

If you need a "complete aerial" (including the motor), try one of the traders that sell 2nd hand part.

The aircon in my car (early -93 import) is not working (needs re-gas) and since the original gas was R12 it will either be R134a or R416 (or similar drop in) that will be used. As the aircon has been out of order for some time I am planning to get the drier tank changed as I believe that this should be done. Does anyone know if the drier tanks are the same in the US models or are the Jap part number different as the prices seem to be lower in the US? If anyone has the part number for an early (believe my car was produced in January) 1993 NA Import, please let me know.

The plugs are independant of the year, so the same for a 91 NA. You should be able to get them from one of the traders here like MJP or ztech. Got mine a while back from sparkplugs.co.uk.

Stock should be PFR6B-11.

This info from the aussie 300zx forum may help. http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/tech/firewall/firewall.htm / Hans

Roy, Would be nice to meet. The one that MJP (Mike F, http://www.mjpauto.com) supplies are the RHD version, but you can remove the inlet/outlet pipes from this one as well as to change the matrix withteh dash in. It is the shape of the pipes that are different in some way, but the "fitting onto the matrix" is the same. I do not think that courtesy have the matrix in their "web-shop". Drop them an e-mail and they will give you a quote. Remember to get a quote incl. shipping and you will end up paying "customs duty" and Irish VAT. I think that duty is 4% and the VAT 21%. If I remember it correct it is added to the whole value/cost including shipping charges. I changed my matrix with the dash in and would do the same again if I end up replacing it again. There are a few "tricky things" but it can be done. Drop me a line if you want to discuss before you swap (Hans.Mattisson@ericsson.com).

Roy, You can get the matrix from Courtesyparts.com in the US. I believe that they are the cheapest. You only have to swap the inlet/outlet pipes from your old matrix. The LHD matrix have different pipes, but the rest is exactly the same. It is very easy to swap the pipes (I removed them as to change the matrix with the dash in). When I changed mine, I did not know that they where the same so I got mine from MJP. I also got a quote from 'Nissan Ireland' at the time (as to compare) and there quote can only be refered to as "very expensive".

I believe that there are two types of aircon pumps but that they have both been fitted to the NA and TT (i.e. that there is no specific NA or TT version). As far as I know it is the pipes (connections) that are different between the two versions. On one version they are closer to each other.

chopper, when my matrix went, I got a lot of "steam" inside the car and water in the footwell. The first indication was that I started to get a little bit a 'steam' on the windscreen. The water in the footwell followed a few days later, and when it started to leak, it was leaking a lot. Guess that this could differ from "matrix to matrix". The "fog" usually started to build up after a few (maybe 5-10) minutes of driving when the engine start to get warm. You could sometimes start the car with no steam inside the windows, but after a few minutes it started to build up.

If it is the matrix (and water in the footwell sounds like the matrix) you can get the matrix from the US (Courtesyparts.com is the cheapest as far as I know) and just swap the pipes that the hoses connect to from the old one. The LHD matrix is the same as the RHD except the pipes that are very easy to swap. I changed my matrix with the dash in, and it takes a bit of patience. There is one bolt that you can only reach from under the bonnet and it is a PITA to get to. I must have spent atleast an hour before I managed to undo it. It is not tight, just hopeless to reach. Do a search on this forum and look at the aussie one (they have write up on how to do it with the dash in). If you have a manual (mines a manual) you will have to remove the clutch pedal to be able to swing the matrix out. I would do it with the dash in if I ever ended up doing it again.

Did a few searches, and according to information the early (89 until mid 90) NA rotor is supposed to be 26 mm and later NA rotors (from mid 90 onwards) 30 mm, which is the same as the TT disc. So if you measure your discs and calipers you should be able to determine if you have TT discs (30 mm) or not.

I think that this depends on the age of the NA. My understanding is that early NAs (until 90 ??) have different rotors, but that later (91 onwards ??) have the same rotort as the TT.

You can replace the antenna mast. I know that Courtesy sell them and I would think that MJP and others here can get them as well.