Ryan

That response is pure class, made me chuckle lol The facial expression is brilliant

Just read this start to finish, You did great, I think the fact you basically advised I dont know what was in my hand, Im not calling the policeman a liar, as sometimes I do have to pick things up, so could of been holding something, not denying that, cant remember back that far. But adamate it wasnt a phone...... Sounds very responsible, and reasonable imo - you fought a great case mate. congrats.

My neighbour pays £20 a week for a unit, only big enough to work on one car at a time, but it has a pit. very handy lol

Hope there is no damage under there. Check that for dedication....... .....Think Id of done the same lol

My Z insurance was £224 fully comp inc full european breakdown cover. with Footman James on classic policy.

Saw you today, following white R33 Skyline. Down the road from Pilton, towards Glastonbury around 3.30 this afternoon.

Could it be one side was receiving less fuel due to the fuel bridge leaking? and now it has some pressure it was able to blow all the "crap" out?

Bet your pleased voddy. I remember you saying a while back about giving up on yours and starting fresh. unfortunatley it has. Im carless still, and tbh, I cant justify buying another car right now - no matter how cheap. I Just miss the Zed :( always looked like it was smiling at me as I walked up the road from work

Hi buddy, welcome to the club. I had similar issue with code 34. Like said before, I put the 1 megaohm 0.25watt resistor in the pin holes, and it was fine. its £25 to get the knock sensor relocated as not ideal to run a turbo engine with a knocksensor bypass! The knock sensor itself is over £200 from Nissan, but there are cheaper ones on eBay - however I cant vouch for them - you may be able to get a good one from a breaker, but its still going to be very old and near the end of its life. The resistor was 29 pence from maplin, and the plug is at the back of the engine in the middle, at the top. there are 3 connectors, two together, and one on its own. Its the one on its own, closest to drivers side. When located, literally just pop the two connectors apart, one side goes to ecu and one to the det sensor - bridge the two pin holes and should run fine. As for reseting fault codes, dont disconnect battery for an hour, takes too long. There is a Connector port in the drivers footwell, just under the dash, next to the kickpanel by the door. you can do this to diagnose faults without lifting passenger carpet, and it also auto resets fault codes when you disabloe it, by repeating the disabling procedure..... Using a paperclip, or small wire, jump the connection between pins 8 and 9 on the Consult connector, as shown below: [ATTACH]65203[/ATTACH] Hold the jump for three seconds, then remove the jump. This is essentially the same as turning the potentiometer on the ECU. Once the jump is removed, the CEL will start blinking codes. Insert the jump again, and hold for three seconds. Then remove it. This will clear all codes. Turn the key off, and run codes again to ensure they’re gone.

Hi Mark, think you will find its a new set. common thing on Zs :(

Can I join you guys if I havent got a Z? Thinking about getting a cheap £500 FTO as a get me round, while I build up business, till I can afford a SWB Slicktop Manual TT - At which point I also intend to send it straight to Jimmer for a forged rebuild and big power before even using the car. Then have it as a 25C+ weather car lol.

I got 245s lmao. Proper wide! lol Could do with wider though, never be to wide with a Zed. Roll the arches out, sure you can get 305s in there!

Sorry Ian. Was out with misses, had to run off last night :( will pm you a mobile number incase im not home when you try ringing again.

As you will have noticed my Zed has been in the For sale section a little while now. I havent advertised elsewhere as my heart really isnt in the sale. however, If I were to advertise elsewhere, what sort of money should I be looking for? I have noticed a few on here for considerably more than mine, and other than paint work, there is no way any could be better (no offence intended to other sellers) What should I be asking for the car in its current condition, allowing for bodywork, its incredibly reliable and used daily. Two more guys in my VILLAGE have bought Zeds in the last two months after seeing mine around - unfortuantley theirs are not the greatest examples I have seen. Anyway, what do you think I should ask if I start advertising elsewhere?

Nice short add, but also incorrect info on it lol. its not a 1999 V reg as stated, its got S1 interior, and Pre 99 Tail lights - for a start that is. Terrible. Think you could buy it, being led to believe its a 99, then claim back costs due to the fact its been sold under false pretences lol.

did you know you can get a full respray from a club member for around £800 ?

I was away working up in london for last couple of days. missed out big time! bargain - - - Updated - - - * maybe not - looks like seller ended it early :(

Not much mate, partners uncle owns a huge scrap yard. Scrap metal prices have dropped about 50% best to hold on to it for 2-3 months if scrapping, as will be worth double - literally.

Thats the thing, I dont want to mod he Zed I have, its a 2+2, Targa, I want a SWB Slicktop. and mechanically it doesnt matter, as I will be using a rebuilt forged engine in it. I cant justify a loan for a forged rebuild in a car, which isnt what I want it to be and never will be. Its not a hyperthetical case of replacing the car, with a SWB Slicky, as thats an indefinate decision. Its a case of when, and what I should do with my current one.

Yeah, paint work defo needs doing, all the metal work is fine, its just the rubber rear spoiler, plastic mirrors, flaked of paint on the skirts, and paint peeled of on the corner of the rear bumper, but no physical damage to repair.

That was the entire reason I posted this thread. Wondering do I sale now as is for around £1900, am I going to recoup anything by doing the extra work, although I can get respray at cost price, still going to be around £1000 by the time I add in mine and my fathers time we could spend at work, earning extra cash. - would I make 3k, and if so would it really be worth it, when Im going to have to do all the work again on a SWB slicktop Manual TT........ Seriously considering putting up a for sale thread now - but also thinking the right car for me isnt out there right now....

To be honest, all it needs is a rear drivers side light and respray, which Im getting done for nothing. As my dad finally agreed to do it. So its going to cost me all of £30 to make it perfect.

Sounds good, But I was also thinking I'd like a manual, and have no idea how to check how strong the engine is, but Im guessing its pretty strong lol. Also would preffer a SWB slicktop lol. Hence why I was thinking if I managed to do what I suggested, would save me over £1000 on manual conversion, and I could also go for the SWB slicky.

Im wondering, if after My Z is back to perfect, including respray etc.... and running 100% with no issues, what would it be worth? its done 82,000KM. which is about 51,000 miles (guesstimate) one owner from new prior to me, with all original service books, and a totally original example, bar the stainless exhaust system. I dont want to ruin a perfect example of an OEM JDM car. But I also want more power. hmmmm.... So was hinking if I sold it to someone who would appreciate it for what it is, once its all sorted, how much could I expect? I would like to use the funds from it, plus extra, to get a good condition Z, with mechanical issues, and invest in a complete forged engine, like the one for sale on here - and build up from that - to make it a perfectly reliable modified example. I was thinking around 3500-4000 for a vehicle with new fresh, perfect paint work at that mileage, with its immaculate interior and reliability. What you think?

I cant remember them all, but will give it a go! Mk3 Ford Escort, before I passed my test. Peugeot 205, till I passed my test. Bought a Brand New Corsa C 1.2 SXI a week after passing 1991 MR2 Turbo, 5 weeks after buying Corsa, as it got shunted up the back and written off, when it wasnt even 2 months old. Audi 80 Quattro 2.3 Turbo 1990 Mr2 Turbo 1995 Nissan 200sx S14 - Modified Mechanically, standard bodywork and interior 1994 R33 GT-S Skyline 1992 Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo 1998 Peugeot 306 Cabriolet 1991 Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo 1994 FTO 1.8 GS TipTronic 1996 FTO 2.0 V6 GPX Mivec Manual 1990 MR2 Turbo 2010 Seat Ibiza Cupa (1.4 TSI - brand new, returned it to manufacturer after 4 weeks, due to blind spots driving, had to go through courts who said that after independent testing the cars blind spots were much larger than they should be) 2008 Fiesta ST500 2009 Renault Megane Cabriolet 2011 Citroen DS3 1.6HDI DSport+ 1990 300ZX Twin Turbo - 2+2 Auto. Im only 28 mind, so been through a few :S Edit, also had 1995 E36 M3 Coupe in there somewhere lol prob more, just cant remember them all on the spot!