Oldreverbob

Take the speedo to a car instroment repairer and have the resiter changed in your speedo [recalarbrate the speedo]

NA manual gear box houseing has to ground out to fit a TT fly wheel plus pressure plate & the starter motor is pack out to line up the starter gear to the ring gear.TT flywheel is differant & use a upmarket clutch kit.

Go onto the Blitz EBC sight and down load the english install & user manuals.

Boost controler guage is the one to beleave [EBC digital readout].Nissan guages are renowned to be wrong. That includes OEM,speedo, tacho,oil pressure,fuel & temp guages.uselly read fast or slightelly high.OK for a quick referance to what is going on. Thats why after market Lab Instrument quality guages & race quality guages cost a mint.

There is a differance in series 1 & series 2 Speedo Clusters in the electric connecting plugs & the wireing internals they are not interchangeable as a unit but the faces look the same.

The other day it was 44 deg C not F in Western Sydney Australia , I live 150 Klms South of Sydney on the sea side and it was still 38 C deg. so being sensible I locked the ZX in the gararge and watched the old F.1 cars on the big flat screen TV with a few beers. So enjoy the weather "rain or shine"

If you fit a EBC the waste gate dose not open until the PSI the control unit is set to no early volume bleed off.

Standard Boost is 9.5 PSI ,some ZX's were fitted with ceramic turbo rotors [my friend had ceramic rotors in his standard Auto TT from the factory when it was new there was not many like this]simular to the SKyline rotors which the advice is not to boost over 12PSI. To be safe you should change the ECU ROM Chip if you boost over 12PSI.and the injectors over 22PSI. runnig on 98 octane fuel. You would will start to max out at about 24PSI. on standard manual turbos.

The earlier Die cast finned type 1 PTU often fails check first if faulty you may have to fit a type 2 unit.

I run 4 differant adjustable settins eg. #1=8PSI,#2=10PS1,#3=12PSI,#4=14PSI,with a NISTune UCU with 370 injectors and manual trans.turbos. Runs OK.

Undo the boost hose at the butterfly and look at the inside of the hose if there is oil present this will indicate the oil is comming from the turbos.

I am useing a Blitz EBC on my car I use Y connector rarther than a Tee fitting. If you are useing the single solinoid unit make the lines from the turbo actuators to the Y fitting the same equal length and the line from the valve to the Y fitting as short as you can.I mounted the valve on the firewall between the battery & the engine.My single solinoid Blitz works perfect if you need to boost over 17PSI it is advisable to use the double solinoid valve type.The Inglish instructions for the Blitz EBC can be down loaded from Blitz Web page.

:taz:Don't stuff around use a EBC Boost control ,they open at the preset pressure with no bleed off [no loss of boost flow & pressure] and if you are going to run boost higher than 9.5 PSI get your self a NISTune ECU then dyno tune your car or rechip your UCU to a reconized tune.I run a blitz EBC which gives me 4 seperate switchable boost settings inwhitch I have setup to 4 manual selectable settings of 8PSI., 10PSI.,12PSI.&14PSI.running with a NISTune ECU-2 ,with a K&N pop air filter,Cruise brand twin cat back stainles steel exhuest system,then Dyno tuned @ 13PSI.boost which produced 320RWHP .& 590N RW touque.If you run a higher boost without doing the other after market mods your engine will detonate witch will give the results as per MarkDarby's photos above:oops::headvswal

:taz: Don't stuff around use a EBC Boost control ,they open at the preset pressure with no bleed off [no loss of boost flow & pressure] and if you are going to run boost higher than 9.5 PSI get your self a NISTune ECU then dyno tune your car or rechip your UCU to a reconized tune.I run a blitz EBC which gives me 4 seperate switchable boost settings inwhitch I have setup to 4 manual selectable settings of 8PSI., 10PSI.,12PSI.&14PSI.running with a NISTune ECU-2 ,with a K&N pop air filter,Cruise brand twin cat back stainles steel exhuest system,then Dyno tuned @ 13PSI.boost which produced 320RWHP .& 590N RW touque.If you run a higher boost without doing the other after market mods your engine will detonate witch will give the results as per MarkDarby's photos above.:oops::headvswal

:taz:Did your turbos have the ceramic rotor blades like the skylines because I have herd of some 300ZXTT with these turbos fitted .It is not reconmended to set boost pressure above 12PSI on ceramic turbos.

:taz:They do fit OK but will give you a bit more turbo lag on the auto gear shifts.

Changed my power steering fluid and made a mistake in puting power steer oil in instead of auto transmission fluid witch made my steering feel notchy changed the oil back to auto trans.oil and fixed the problem .

Non OEM seatbelts on a 300ZX where they are fitted into the doors can be a real pain to find a brand that will work as good as the original Nissan belts.

Driver side: If you have the hands of a 6 year old and live a mile from your church :censored::surrender:useing lots of penertrene oil and have 7 day weekends of time it can be done if you are prepaird to loose some bark of hands and arms. Passenger side is a bit easier to get at still you have to be able to loosen the heat frozen nuts and bolts. Thats y people take the engine out!

A radiator bloke will be able to replace the plastic tank witch has the nipple moulded onto it. Glues onto plastic with coolent under pressure could be a problem.

In motor racing I have always used a veg based oil eg. Shell M or Castral R . You must first treat the oil by warming the engine up to running temp and then letting the engine cool down, then warm the engine up to running temp again before the start on the starting grid. At the end of the day drain the sump oil out and dump because this oil will oxerdise if left in motor to long .[go off or turn to goo if there is methernol used as a fuel] The engine has to be moderfide to use this oil by enlarging the oil ways by 20% this oil will lubricate at a lot lower oil pressure than normal and I never had a engine blow useing these oils.:thumbup1:

If you ever get a sender unit not working , check the small oil input hole to see if it is blocked a lot of these units have been saved by drillng out the hole again with a small drill useing a small pin drill chuck.

Have a look in the Aussie ZX sight aus300zx.com.au Tech questions may help you .

Go to http://www.aus300zx.com.au and have a read of there Tech problems questions this may help you to understand how it all works.

If the steering is still heavy & the power steering pump is pumping I would say the problem is the solinoid valvle on the steering rack is jamed or not being energized. This electrical valve operates the varable speed steering wheel feel control.