RoboGaz

Are you able to see your actual connection speed and have you actually upgraded to an 8meg service? 8meg broadband is available everywhere from many SP's via BT now, but you'll need to request the new service to get regraded, some charge more for it so watch out. And assuming you have been moved to the 8meg service and you are getting a healthy connection speed, it can take a day or two for the systems to settle down and set the network up correctly (as it monitors and adjusts according to your line characteristics). Also it depends on how the speed of the line is being tested, because there is a difference between connection speed and service throughput affected by many factors. Gaz

Decided to add the pics here as well, it was good to meet you all, nice to see these cars being looked after ........... The cars in the first shot (nearest to farthest) belong to: me, vai0, kamikaze then SuffolkZX. In the above shot you can see vai0, kamikaze, SuffolkZX and jaffaZ32 contemplating if the pedestrian Suffolk reversed over will fit in the boot. My daughter is in a couple of them as well. Gaz

It was good to meet up with you guys, here are a few pictures I took. The cars in the first shot (nearest to farthest) are: RoboGaz, vai0, kamikaze then SuffolkZX. In this shot you can see vai0, kamikaze, SuffolkZX and jaffaZ32 contemplating if the pedestrian Suffolk reversed over will fit in the boot. That's my daughter in a couple of them as well. Gaz

No sorry, don't know him and only had my Z a month.

You obviously forgot to ring their bell or tweak their knob (door)

Yes I do.

I still plan to go (new exhaust tomorrow) and am only a couple of miles from you. Gaz

I try to use the car every day to get to work which varies between Ipswich and Martlesham (from Needham) Gary

The rear spoiler looked standard and I didn't notice the exhaust as I was a bit shocked I'd manage to spot another one, especially after driving all the way to Sommerset and back last week and not seeing another Z (apart from a couple of 350's). Gaz

Spotted you on my way into town, I was stuck at the lights as you went across the roundabout into Tesco's. However you wouldn't have noticed me as I was in a Zafira :( . Noticed it had an Irish plate and those Ferrari style rear lights. Forum member ? Gaz

Thanks guys I can stop pannicking now. AIV - from a terminology page The air induction valve sends secondary air to the exhaust manifold, using a vacuum created by exhaust pulsation in the exhaust manifold. When the exhaust pressure is below atmospheric pressure (negative pressure), secondary air is sent to the exhaust manifold. When the exhaust pressure is above atmospheric pressure, the reed valves prevent secondary air from being sent back to the sub-air cleaner. OK great, so what does it do :D Gaz

I've trawled all the exhaust threads and I think I found an answer to one question, but need some additional advice please...... Decided to de-cat my jap TT and have a Mongoose cat back system and some new downpipes ready to fit. Managed to squeeze under the car today (built some wooden ramps) and I noticed the existing exhaust has a smaller attached pipe running back to the front wheel arch (and I assume into the engine bay) on both sides along with a further sensor nearer the cats. My new down pipes don't have connections for any of these but I've read that they're not needed as I'm de-cating and all these bits are for the cats. So is this correct? If it is then do I simply leave the pipes where they are but leave them unfitted or are they best completely removed?. I assume the other sensor can just be tied back out of the way. Any help appreciated as I'd like to get it fitted this week. Cheers all, Gaz

I get these symptoms as well and had pretty much decided it was a MAF problem, I have standard filters, a splash guard and even when it's completely dry I get the same loss of power - everytime. Is there anyway to prove the MAF to be at fault without swapping it out? will a conzult or datascan diagnostic show anything. I've had the thing out before now, but it doesn't look like the sort of item that can be fixed, just replaced, is this correct. Cheers, Gary

There's no polarity to a standard resistor.

more ............... Run a power wire to where the operators used to sit and put a thiristor on the end. Waited for may mate to go up and do some work and turned the power on. This caused it to burn out which smelt absolutely disgusting, then rang the operators and warned them my mate had been for a curry the night before and had bad guts ......... that one was good for half a dozen times. Put a bloody great box 15 feet above the old codgers work bench, filled it with rubbish, pegged close with a 50 foot line and let the lot go on him whilst he was quietly working one day. Also done the fart powder in someones tea ..... foaming sugar ..... cling film on toilet ......... oh and those tiny bangers placed carefully under a toilet seat. Didn't quite get around to electrifying a toilet seat, but came close. oh and lots more . . .

Long time ago now, but when I worked in a telephone exchange ............ Poured battery acid all over my mates brand new leather tool holdal whilst he was on holiday so it was dry when he returned and he suspected nothing. It took weeks to wrok and I almost gave up hope, but one day he picked it up and the whole thing just disintegrated and he was left with just a handle. Same mate had a lovely shiney Ivory phone that was his pride and joy, that was until I invited him round the corner to see a test explosion of it, blew the thing to bits. Cut into the power feed to the bench of a dopey old codger who used to work near me and added some pots, resistors and a few other goodies that could be kicked in when I fancied peeing him off. Water bombs on dopey old codger from the 4th floor. Done the car full of polystyrene one. Tools in a block of ice. Covering old codger from head to foot in spray snow. and many more ...............

Looked at all the existing threads, but haven't seen an answer to this question: Have decided to go down the replacement chip route, but some threads say the speedo needs to be changed for a UK one. Why is that, what's the issue if I don't change the speedo straight away. Will it cause auto box problems with incorrect signals all over the place or what?. If it's just incorrect speed then I'm not worried about that as I can use my GPS. Also, I spotted a post that said changing the 33K R10 resistor to a 20K one will convert the speedo to a UK one. Anyone done this, did it work. Cheers folks, maybe soon I'll be able to answer questions rather than keep asking them .......... still got a few little niggles to sort, but I'll get there. Gary

Hi Folks, Put a new fuel filter on my J-Spec today and found a 4 inch piece of black tubing in the outlet of the old filter. It looked a bit like a straw but was thick enough not to bend easily, also one end was blown so that it would not go all the way into the filter. Anyone know what this is for, is it purely to restrict fuel flow or is it there for a reason. I changed the filter because when booting the car I kept getting a sudden loss of power under load (like you'd removed your foot from the accelerator), usually around 5000 rpm, in different gears (it's an auto). Ease up slightly and go for it again and I could get the car rocketing off again. I put it down to fuel starvation, hence the change and finding this little widget. Did the air filters as well and it seems a lot better now but I'm not convinced I've completely cured the problem. Cheers, Gary

It's the dip stick for the auto box ........... at least that's where mine is.

BazzaJG is selling a "Camber Correction shim kit (never used) 35 pounds" in the Items for sale section Gary

Also, from the site ............. What do I need to do to get it working? 1. Plug cable between the laptop serial port and car Consult Diagnostics port 2. Turn your computer on, start Datascan 3. Turn on the ignition, but dont crank the engine 4. Click the connect button on Datascan 5. You should see your ECU part number being displayed 6. Choose data display and pump the accelerator pedal 7. You should see the TPS gauge move 8. Start your engine and you should see all the gauges spring to life Did we actually try starting the Datascan then turn on the ignition or was the ignition on when the Datascan software was fired up?, could it be as simple as that :confused: Gary

Hi Bart, I had another look at the Blazt site last night and there was a page that showed some different settings from the ones that were displayed last night (products tab, Datascan software, shows '54' in the Hex address box). Not convinced it will be the answer, but might be worth a look. Gary

It looks like someone has puked up next to it, can't say I balme them :hurl:

Had a 280ZX (2 seater manual) about 18 years ago and loved it. Didn't like the older style 300ZX, but when Nissan restyled it in 89 I just fell in love with the shape and have wanted one ever since. So, prices dropped, I saved some pennies and finally got one last Friday. Mine is 14 years old, yet it doesn't look dated imo, I think it's just about spot on for looks. I think the missus is feeling left out though :) Gary

Hi Phil, Yes, that was me, I'd just dropped a letter in to the local school and then went for a blast along the A14 :D . Great fun, but I must get it delimited. Glad to see you got back OK. Gary