RoboGaz

You've got the big gasket that fits the auto box oil pan and is held in place with 18 bolts, so that's a possibility. Very easy to change once you have the car high enough to get under, done mine a few weeks back when I did an oil change. I'm sure there are many other points at which a leak could occur, unfortunately the only to know for sure is to get under it for a look ..... which is not so easy :( Gaz

The only thing I can think of towards the back is the fuel pump that sits inside the fuel tank. You could turn on the ignition without starting the car an listen out for it (you might need to let the pressure out of the tank first). I can't say I've ever heard mine whirring away though. Gaz

That just fits over the 180Kph jap speedo so you don't have to keep converting the speed in your head. If you are handy with a soldering iron, apparently you can change the 33K Ohm R10 resistor for a 20K ohm one and that'll do the job as well. Your speedo will then read im MPH (just need a sticker over the 'K' of KPH if it bothers you'. This would sort the speedo out, a new chip will delimit the 112mph (180kph) jap limit. I plan to do the R10 resistor conversion soon. The other option is a delimeter box that converts your pulses thus makes your jap speedo read in mph, but I've seen a few people say this can cause power steering and auto box issues. Gaz

Not to sure about the wheels, but I wouldn't be happy with V rated tyres on my car. I know they're rated up to 149 mph, but you have to watch out for the stresses of acceleration as well. Gaz

Not quite every day but 3 or 4 times a week. Basicaly I'll use it as much as I can and keep it on the road for as long as I can, just love driving it around really and hate the idea of cars being stored away and not used. Gaz

As Vijay says, you need to go to the Motherboard manufacturers site and look up the latest updates for your motherboard model (hopefully you noted it down when you replaced the chip). Most decent sites will tell you what chips they support and also what each BIOS update covers, it should also tell you if your new chip is supported in that motherboard. The Pheonix BIOS will be specific to the motherboard especially where HP are concerned and I would have thought that HP would have updates under their support section. Also I can't quite remember if it's F1 or DEL to get into the HP BIOS, just as you start the machine up. Gaz

Spotted in the car park near the station around 18:30 this evening. Was dropping someone off so didn't spot the reg. Was that your car Jack? Gary

Definitely worth a look here as well: http://www.mytyres.co.uk/start.html At least you can compare a fit only price as well. Gaz

Mine are 45's, so 225x45x17 all round for me. Gaz

Here it is: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=71037 Gaz

Fitted mine from ZCentre this weekend, I posted a thread in the general discussion area giving some detail of what was involved, but you should get instructions anyway. I'll go and look for the 'very oily thread' Gaz

The spec is fine as you're almost up to desktop standards there, but it really depends what you want to use it for. If it's just for browsing the internet and a few letters then it's to high a spec and you're wasting money. If you want to play games on it or run multiple apps, then it's spot on. I assume it has WiFi and Bluetooth, I'd be suprised if it didn't these days. Oh, and make sure you run the battery down every now and then. I've been using laptops for years and tend to have it sitting in a docking station most of the time, so the battery is always fully charged and they only last a couple of years like this. I try to run mine down about once a month, helps a bit, but they all go in the end. Gaz

I didn't want to mention the fact it looked dirty ;)

I read the brake pedal tip on here and it appears to work as far as I can tell, it must clear any residule juice from the circuit board.

I've seen an hour or two quoted, but I find half an hour usually does it. If i want an immediate reset I switch on the ignition and depress the brake pedal, that seems to work. Gaz

You should see my wheels, you couldn't get a gnats dick in between my calipers and the wheel. I was a bit concerned when I first bought the car but not had a problem yet. Gaz

It's the super unleaded from bot the Tesco's near me in Suffolk. I think it says it's 99RON on the pumps. Mine runs fine on it. Gaz

Thanks for the feedback znut. I've had a lot of good advice from everyone on the forum, the best £20 I've spent on the car, so just glad I can start to give something back. Gaz

Definitely agree with that, I was very suprised how much hotter it gets than the engine cooler. Also the old auto box cooler sits down one side of the main rad so I can imagine it has trouble doing anything useful to cool the oil. Gaz

Bits in my kit: New rad (replaces existing engine oil cooler) 2 x 90 degree connectors for the new rad Adaptor plate 2 reducers 2 lengths of rubber pipe (for the auto box cooler) 8 jubilee clips Firstly I had to remove the splash guards under the car which was fairly easy as I had done this a few weeks ago, but the first time I removed it, several of the bols sheered, so watch out for that. I also have no grill on mine so have good access from the front, so undoing the existing small engine oil cooler is just a matter of undoing 3 bolts. I fitted the new cooler to the adapter plate that came with it (4 small bolts), attached the 90 degree connectors to the top (facing the drivers side) and then removed the pipes from the existing cooler and attached them to the new one (just loosely to start with). Once I was happy that it would fit in place I tightened the pipework. It's a bit tight in there but the old cooler bracket did bend fairly easily to squeeze in the new cooler. OK so that's the new oil cooler now cooling the engine oil (not bolted in yet). One mod I also had to do was that my adaptor plate was flat and the old cooler and it's bracket was not, so I had to straighten the bracket (just used pliers) and the plate on the old oil cooler (used a mallet). This meant that the existing bracket, the new adaptor plate and the existing oil cooler plate all mated together in a nice sandwich ready to bolt together. The pipe work for the auto box runs under the car and and attaches to the rad on the right hand side (facing the car). Trace the pipes until you're happy as I cut into mine at teh front of the car as it run under the main water rad as it was nice and easy to get to. Used the reducers in the kit to connect the new pipework from the kit to the existing pipes and then ran it to the old cooler and cut them to size. I flushed out the old cooler with some auto box oil just to ensure there was a good flow through. The old cooler now sits back to front with the 90 degree connector facing the passenger side and is bolted via the centre bolt through the adaptor plate (this is now between the two rads so is a bit fiddly to get to). I managed to get a second bolt in so it's nice and tight on mine. I managed to remove one of the old auto box pipes, the other one I cut as close to the rad as I could. Oh and be ready for a bit of oil when you remove the pipes and cut the auto pipes. One other thing, when trying to find a route for the new auto box pipework I had to break a small platic plate in order to make a hole large enough for the pipe to go through where other pipework is, don't worry, I'm sure you'll spot it. Hope it all goes as easy for you as it was for me. Gaz

Was going northbound on the A12 and near the Stratford St Mary turn off (just after Colchester). I was going the other way so didn't see the reg, but it did have a standard rear spoiler. Anyone here? Gaz

Finally got around to fitting the auto box oil cooler conversion to my J spec, but also removed the pan from the box and replaced the filter. Also decided to do a engine oil and filter change, so all in all I got rather greasy today, but it was good fun :D The cooler wasn't to difficult in the end, thank goodness I'd built some wooden ramps though otherwise I'd have no hope getting under the car. Auto box was nice and clean as was the filter, but I changed the filter anyway whilst it was all apart. Only did a short run to check things out but did notice the 'new' auto box rad got quite warm but the brand new engine oil coller was still cold. ill need to check this after a longer run, perhaps tomorrow. Just got the rear diff to do another day. Gaz

They look really nice and definitely one of the mods I'd like to do to mine at some point, gives it a slightly more modern look I think. That goes for the side repeaters as well. Gaz

Sunday 4th is looking OK for me as well currently. Gaz

Saw this trick on a program a few years back about these Icelandic nutters who drive around in some extreme conditions in their 4 x 4's with about 12psi in their tyres to get some grip. Anyway because of said pressure they quite often de-rim the tyres. So this happened at the weekend to my err.... ride-on mower :) and I couldn't get it back on the rim. So remembering this program I got some lighter gas, gave a squirt in the tyre, stood back and lit the blighter. One bang later and it was inflated and on the rim :cool: Most impressive, a bit more air pumped in and it's not gone down yet. Tyre felt slightly warm afterwards, but at least it worked and I've still got my eyebrows. Gaz