RoboGaz

Yes, I'm still planning to come along. Gaz

Spotted this similar site the other day http://www.trackdays.co.uk/ As for how I drive the Z, well I guess I'm becomming a bit of a coward as I get older and don't take many chances these days. Had a blast past lots of cars down the back roads the other day and it was brilliant, but there are so few opportunities to do that these days. I do tend to blast it about whenever I can mainly on the straight until I get some better tyres, oh and if it breaks, I'll fix it. Gaz

I've got a 92 tt and it has a sump plug. Also having done a box change recently I can tell you that mine had a magnet in it already. It was doughnut shape, but you can only get to it if you drop the sump. If you do drop the entire sump to check then I'd recommend getting a new gasket (I got one from MJP and it came with a set of new bolts). I also got a new filter and replaced it, although my original was really clean ......... so I kept it as a spare. Gaz

Ouch! that looks expensive

Well, I suppose when I said flush, I just meant I emptied the rad then refiled it rather than try and add it any other way. The water I removed was pretty clear. Oh and Jack has gone and got me all worried now, better read up and check it out. The bumf I read said it worked by enabled the heat transfer process to work more efficiently both ways. Gaz

Oh and I managed to get mine off ebay for £6.50 including postage. Gaz

I've noticed a definite drop in temperature since doing a rad flush and adding a bottle of Water Wetter. Datascan shows my temp at 72 degrees max even when sitting still. Gaz

Saved the screen captures as .jpg and if you look below the submit reply/preview post buttons there is a manage attachment area where you can browse your pc for images, upload them, then select them, save the url and add it by clicking on the image icon (just below the font colour selector for me) and pasting the url. Well that's how I do it anyway. Gaz

That would most likely be me then either on my way to or back from Tesco. I'm only a couple of miles from you in Barking Tye. Hoping to make the meet on the 4th june, so maybe see you there. Gaz

Well they look quite similar to mine, although that doesn't meant they're right . And yes I realise my idle is a little high at 988rpm, a job for another day. Gaz

deleted ............ should have read all your post first :o

Are you getting the ECU code coming up (see the thread I started - second attachment) or do you still get an invalid port message. I read on the Blazt site that a bad battery can cause connect problems, said something about trying main beam to see if it helps the charging circuits and hence the connection?. I've got different problems with mine. Gaz

Got the Datascan cable and software yesterday, set up and working OK, all dials displaying on the main data screen fine, then suddenly the screen stops working. Trying again today I cannot get the multiple display to work, see attached screen shot as this is all I get. The dashboard works OK and I can select different reading and they display OK so I am getting info from the ECU, but this main screen refuses to budge. I've removed and re-installed the software and no change, has anyone had a similar problem or have any idea what might be going on? Cheers, Gaz .

No it's still an auto, so I'll have to find out some possible causes an check it out this weekend, hoping it's something simple. Gaz

Excellent, found it and it also explains why the 'bong' started when I adjusted one of them. So at least I know which one to fiddle with now, although it doesn't make adjusting on the move any easier. Gaz

Hello and welcome to the site, I've only had my 300 for a couple of months and this site & the folk here I have to say are excellent. Here is a link to the buyers guide http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/BuyingZ.htm These cars are fast and highly engineered and up to about 17 years old, mine is a youngster at 14 and so inevitibly things will go wrong. It can be a bit hit and miss buying one, look at what's on offer here to get an idea of price, most people here look after the cars. The advice most people give is to keep a couple of grand in reserve in case things go wrong with it, if you've got a good base car then it's probably worth fixing up, but don't expect to get all the money back you spend on it if you ever sell it. As mentioned they are heavy on fuel, I only get about 16 -18 mpg out of my auto, but then I didn't buy it as an economic car, I bought it because I think they look the dogs. Buy one and enjoy it for what it is - a supercar. Gaz .

Well it wasn't me last night Phil. Did you notice if it had some Ferrari style lights at the back or not, I've spotted that one in Ipswich before now. Which Indian did you visit. Gaz

Looks like I've got 2 problems, TPS is way to low reading between 0.56 and 0.82 from idle to 2000 rpm. Also getting a code 54 reported - something to do with an autobox signal missing Then the main data screen locked up and refused to work again, I could get the dash board screen working, but the main data screen just displays most guages at zero, even tried a re-install :confused: Gaz

There are some extra drivers on the Blazt site http://www.blazt.biz if you're using a USB connector. Gaz

There are some extra drivers on the Blazt site http://www.blazt.biz if you're using a USB connector. Gaz

There are two Pots at the top of the PCB, does anyone have a link or know how each one is used to adjust the speedo. I'm only about 12% out but I may as well get it as close as possible whilst I'm doing it. Cheers folks, Gaz .

I think it'll be easier with the roof off as I can stand so I can see the POT properly :D

It was a choice of about £100 for a set of UK clocks or 10p for a 20K resistor, so not much of a choice really. Anyway as I have all the soldering gear and used to solder stuff all the time, I wasn't worried about that bit. Dismantling the dash board was interesting as I hadn't realised quite how much needed to come out, but apart it came in order to get to the screws holding in the bottom of the clocks. So clocks out and on the kitchen table, I had to dismantle it to get to the PCB, carefully of course as it's a delicate looking piece of kit. Now I could see the resistor (33K on the Jap Spec clock) right next to a chip on the PCB. Getting the resistor out was straight forward, getting the new 20K one in was very fiddly as the solder sucker I used just couldn't clean the holes very well, but in the end the holes were cleared, new resistor placed in and soldered in place. It was just a matter of putting everything back together and going for a run, hey presto clock reading much lower and looked about right. The next job is to compare the speedo against my GPS and calibrate it if necessary and whilst I had the clocks out I made a couple of small holes above the 2 POTS on the PCB so I can get a small screwdriver in there very easily to adjust if necessary. Not a bad saving for a few hours work. Oh and I have some spare resistors if anyone wants one. Gaz

I've just ordered a chip from DTA and I'll be fitting mine myself. I know some of the traders offer a fitting service, but you'll have to do without the car whilst they do the mod to the ECU ..... unless you have a spare. Gaz

Had a 280ZX about 20 years ago and regularly had it running flat out which was around 145 on the clock, so probably 135. I recall one time racing a Porsche along the M11 and slowing up near to where the Police used to sit, Porsche shoots by, Police pull out, go past me, pull the Porsche over and I go past both. Well, he was a bit of a dick, he didn't spot them and left it until 50 feet away to slam the brakes on. Had a 3.0L Alfa 164 that used to go very well indeed and had that up to over 130. Jag XJS similar speed. The current 300 is limited to 112 :( but I've just ordered a spanking new chip from that nice man at DTA :D so I'll er ... be looking out for some private road ;) .