Zedzilla

Well the old brackets got to me and i figured if i've got this far i may as well weld up unused bolt holes etc. Derhaps due to a certain inspiring engine bay pic earlier in the thread.. :tongue_smilie: Here is how she is right now, going to buy some filler tommorrow smooth it all up then get a lick of paint on there... Still weighing up the new power steering resovoir placement :confused1:

I've just bought some 285/40/18's for the back of mine in toyo t1r's, on my last Z i ran toyo proxes 4's.... performed well in the wet, i preferred the RE002 adrenalins in the day, but in the wet they were pretty useless. Be interesting to see how the t1r's perform.

Not even a grand with JDM lights and front bumper?! You sure it aint mickey mouse? :laugh:

Mine were $1700 NZD don't know what that is in your money, but they are BC red's for an R32 Skyline GTR.

Paint em bright orange with the silver existing kept. :cool2:

We we're contemplating putting one of those in, but have you seen the cost?!!?!?!?!

Sounds typical of a cooked PTU. They will generally do it when hot as they are on thier way out then fail that cylinder completely. It is also worth noting 300zx's don't like thier plugs being unsettled you'll often see green corrosion/ white powdery corrosion on the pins, if they have been in for a long time the connection point usually remains, but unsettle and plug back in its is easy to make problems worse, so i'd first try some electrical contact cleaner on all the pins. clean them all up including ptu pins and injectors. If that doesn't fix it i would suspect a bung ecu, perhaps somebody local to you will let you plug on thier PTU to narrow it down but it is your most likely suspect given the behavior.

Only problem is to get a top one down ya gotta move both the bottom ones. Awesome yes, practical not so much.

Made them, 38mm square tubing, not overly heavy designed to get low cars up. knocked them up in a day. do the job well unless you have a really silly low car.

Wilcoes i know one thing at a time and all that, but once you got the wheels sorted get cracking on ya engine bay if thats your thing... Here's mine last week just needs fuel lines put in.

Unfortunately, now i have to kill you.

Drift days/ trackdays / weekend twisty playtoy/ daily driver occasionally. bit of everything really. But for suspension i've gone with: BC red coilovers. Adjustable arms for - rear camber, front camber, rear toe, rear traction, front traction. Rear subframe lock collars. Half cage going in early next year :devil2:

Front are ROH drift r's australian made, rears are manaray ms-6 3 piece. the wheels were the cheap part, its the 2.5k of suspension that hurt the wallet! :sweatdrop:

I bring nice girls home all the time, they just leave in the morning. Thats a nice girl right there.

Also a better selection of tyre specs. Hell my new tyres i've got here are 285/40/18 toyo t1r's for the rear, in a Y (180mph) speed rating, would hate to think what they would cost in a 19!!!

OMG that is one sweeeeeeet vert. :surrender: I do actually agree with that definately not 19's on a swb. Found a side on pic of my car, 17's front 18's rear. had to take my coilovers up a touch to get her up the ramps.

Yeap, it's personal preference on look, i'm all for people having whatever they want on thier cars as long as they like it.

Oh don't get me wrong they look good, i just think 18's flow better with the car, and the 19's are a bit over powering unless the car is seriously low. ie tucking tread front and rear.

Fella i got my bodykit off seconds hand has his on 20 inch dtm's a bit similar to yours... but it is tucking rim on the front damn near on the ground on coilovers. Looked insane, but he said it wasn't exactly practical to drive.

*prints* *scurries away in 300zx section of filing cabinet* Thankyou sir! :cool2:

Yeah prettymuch any set of cheapo lowering springs will give you 40mm drop... Euro style... pffft JAPAN style (i'll never admit to le french or ze germans doing it first NEVERRRR)

:mellow: too big!

Depends on the offset of the wheel... if its only going to hit by a mm just shave the nissan logo off ya caliper, gives you a free 3mm of clearance.

Nice mate, regarding the wheels it reminds me of mine before i got coilovers in, just drop the rear about an inch and it'll tie it all together. :gunsmilie:

You're also going to need the manual shifter surround and boot. I assume by prop you mean drive shaft, you only need the front half, as thats the only difference between auto and manual (rear half changes between n/a and TT) ideally you want both pieces so they are balanced to match, if you do that you're going to need a manual n/a shaft, if not you will need to get the shaft professionally balanced which can be a pretty hefty amount.