Zedzilla

Yeap i've taken my coilovers out until all my arms arrive from japan, at the height i want to run it it end up with about 4 degrees front camber. no point driving it like that.

Nope ya gotta extend the hoses

Cheers mate, pretty easy to achieve yaself! i origionally had everything black, then i did the rockers plenum cas bracket and timing covers, just make sure you use engine enamel paint. I knew there was some sort of gain of me being over here! :smartass:

Hmm doesnt ring a bell and i used to live in blockhouse lol, you're thinking of tauranga or hamilton

Who was ya friend with the z where from? i used to have a red n/a... then again nz is flooded with red n/a 2+2's lol thats why i bought a grey one, i like red z's but every bugger has one!

You didn't happen to have one in NZ in same colours by chance i bought some spares off a fella who worked at a hire place his was exactly like the wasp. was wondering if you had maybe remade the wasp again in UK

Hes saying he won't do it himself due to needing a certified installer to do it for insurance purposes.

As in get the guy to do it may cost you a bit extra but it actually means it will do its job.

I can't really go into immense detail on a public forum. Bury the brain. So it cannot be accessed.

Very easy to install yourself, the way installers do it is a joke that any monkey can get past in 10 seconds flat once in your car.

I literally could write a novel on how to handle a motorcycle. But this site has character limits. Beyond the basics below are the CRUCIAL things you must know. COUNTERSTEERING - understand it, use it, be ready to do it at any time, get that habit in NOW. LOOK FOR THE GAP - if you are going to arse off, look for a gap where you can land, there is almost always a gap, if there is no gap, make sure your impact will throw you into a gap. (i got smacked off on the motorway headed straight for a stopped van, ploughed the van but hit it so i could skitter into an empty lane so i didn't get mowed. GROUP RIDING - don't try keep up, ride your own ride, just because they can go around a corner that fast, doesn't mean you can. LEARN THE ROAD - don't go being silly down road you do not know. LOW GEAR - sit in a low gear around town, cars do not always see you and will pull out and its too late to stop, your option is gas. (especially on a small cc bike you need every bit of grunt you can get, you'll have time to chop one gear at most. RUNNING WIDE - if you start to run wide, don't hit the brakes, the bike will stand up and its game over from there, look DEEP into the corner crank her over with some more countersteer, and throttle her out. UNDERTAKING CARS - don't do it, ever. OTHER ROAD USERS - treat them all as idiots, often they are, and then you wont be suprised. RIDING STANCE - staunch, aggressive, reality is cars do see you thier brain simply writes it off, its like that gap in traffic if it was a car coming you'd make it no sweat, if it's a container truck, you're far less likely to take it on, to a car drivers brain a motorcycle simply is not a threat. HEAD MOVEMENT - point your head at car drivers waiting at t intersections. even with a black visor simply pointing your helmet at them you are taken as more of a threat to thier brain. BRAKING - brake early never brake mid corner, at least while learning, you pick up your own little traits and learn what you can get away with as you go, but as a starting point stick to the afore mentioned. BIKE SECURITY - always use your disc lock, if they can't roll it it makes it a hell of alot harder to steal, without going into detail, steering lock is a joke, always use that too, buys you an extra 3-5 seconds. i'm not going to go into hint and tips on an open forum for obvious reasons That should be enough to get you started. Anything else you want to know don't ever be afraid to ask, buried too many.

Oh those ones. Yeah i can't afford one of those lol.

You just move it under the nose panel, it doesn't earth on the timing cover, it has an earth wire in its loom, it has no need to be on the engine, i'm still smoothing off the humps in my bay currently but i did a full wire tuck and complete custom wiring loom. Heres a pic of it all coming together before i decided to smooth the humps off... Fully wired here. Currently there is filler everywhere, fun times. Oh and i just found that pic for ya on here while getting my engine bay pics. Thanks to dougal200 for posting this in my other thread.

I should add this was followed by a... now do you see how ridiculous your car can be, so stop being such an arse in it. (i was sensible in it but made my point)

Yeap had a young fella in skyline club who was 16 driving an r33 skyline coupe, rb25det, forward facing plenum upgraded turbo injectors etc etc, would drive along next to us on motorway in 3rd gear pulsing the gas coming on and off boost, we all tried to help him and guide him most people gave up on him. He was going on about how he can handle the car etc etc, he took me for a drive one day, he wasn't bad but he just couldn't control the power. burying it around in straight lines puttering around the corners... I said mate you can't corner this thing at all can you, oh yeah it tries to go sideways... he challenged me i couldn't go any faster, so i took him out through the old whitford gorge in the wet, he was pretty pale by the time we got back! :lol:

Wasn't really clear there, lack of sleep... If you are to drive outside of hours or with passengers there must be a person who has held a full license for over 2 years in the front passenger seat...

Yeah i've heard of insane insurance over there, since you left they raised up the driving age to 16 here, all the farmers got upset that rural kids wouldnt be able to get around etc. yeah car licensing is not too dis-similar here. Learners: scratchie test - cant drive unaccompanied. Restricted: driving test - no passengers, cant drive unaccompanied between 10pm-5am and that person must have held a full license for over 2 years and must be in a state of which they could take over control of the vehicle, ie not over the drink driving limit/ under influence of drugs/ asleep etc etc. Yeah full license here in car is 18 months after restricted or 12 months if you do a defensive driving course, never at any point of license system is there any restriction on vehicle power output etc. The aussies approach of P plate drivers no turbo cars no v8's etc i think is a damn good idea.

I did have a pic saved but after a 10 minute hunt i can't find it, it's on my to do list, you simply cut the bracket off the strut tower and weld in onto the edge of the headlight bucket facing the nose panel side, the raise in the nose panel gives you enough clearance for the lid... Your other option is to put it up by the brake booster in the corner where the loom comes in from the wheel arch, the existing holes there are spaced the same so you can just bolt it right up, you can then either heat up and bend the lower pipes to run the hoses inside the engine bay, or drill straight down in the body of the care and run the hoses through the wheel arch then down under the chassis rail. Alot of mucking around and it is still in the bay then, just zap the bracket on under the nose to make life easy, personal preference i guess. Are you going to move the PTU also?

I'm you get really stuck i have some here but hopefully you can source some locally, have you still got the whole piece? could just weld it back together?

Could be as simple as rotted water pipes off back of motor or the water lines that run off to the throttle bodies have perished, pretty common, wish i could be of more help but i havn't pulled a head yet.

Can't really help with your main question but i will say, before you remove the timing belt mark it and the cams with twink so when ya put it back together ya just line it back up and away ya go, also the water inlet pipes on front of motor, dont use an ordinary allen key, get a bit you can put in the end of a socket, hit it in with a hammer, then hit it about 50 times to shock those bolts loose then lean on them. I don't know where you are at but thought i'd throw some input none the less. In theory you could probably get away with dropping off the exhaust and leaving the headers and turbo's on the heads and pull them out with the motor still in the car. but its alot of fiddling around and it only take 2 hours to pull the motor.

Heck of a complex system compared to here. Here bike licensing is. Learner license - Testing: road rules scratchie test, basic handling skills test (ride around some cones slalom prove you can stop within a set area etc. Restrictions: no more than 70kph (40mph?) on open road or motorways (stupid rule), limited to 250cc (or less) bike, must display l plate, no passengers, no riding between 10pm-5am. Wait time to next stage: 6 months Restricted license - Testing: be followed on a 250cc or less bike by a testing officer, (they use an intercom headset) Restrictions: no passengers, 250cc limit, no riding between 10pm-5am Wait time to next stage: 18 months (12 months if a driving training course is completed, no test on a bike you have to do this in a car... :glare: ) Full license Testing: Testing: be followed on a 250cc or less bike by a testing officer, (they use an intercom headset) Restrictions: none.

Where do i buy these z's that dont need much doing to get roadworthy?!?! thats like catching a unicorn.

Don't know the system there so can't really help wiht licensing, but most other bike q's i can help with, rode for 6 years, mechanic for 4, did the odd bit of racing etc, took a break from it to build my dream car (hence i'm here) Getting back into it in a couple of years, was getting a bit too confident for my own good on the streets.

Better if you could go around there and get pics of the rusty sills, also check underside of bootlid for rust and there are other places they can go too, the uk members are alot more schooled on how they rust over there though, i'd highly advise getting a member to look over it with you before buying.