Zedzilla

Between hollow and hoody theres more tits than expected in this thread. :whistling:

Thats fine i understand your post exactly, i was just making a comment on it as you said they were rare, so thought i would mention they didn't come factory as that, and a bit of a history lesson. Still doesn't deem the attitude in your initial reply. :thumbdown:

Actually going with what jeff said yes differences between 2 and 4 seater also. but you get the general idea.

Groovers link covers it in detail. In laymans terms, you can mix half and half ie. TT auto box with an n/a subframe and diff would be a TT auto front half with an n/a rare half (doesn't matter if from auto or manual for the rear half)

Yeap.

Yeap still an s13 chassis as such, in the way the 350z and 350gt skyline share the same chassis. The silvias have many names in different places etc and are easily confused.

s13 rear...

Cefiro and s13 silvia arn't the same, very similar though. s13: http://ll.speedhunters.com/u/f/eagames/NFS/speedhunters.com/Images/AntonioAlvendia/Feature%20Cars/HenryVIPS13/IMG_8645_RearOffset_S13.jpg The 180sx you posted is the type X model, 95-97 from memory more often referred to as a 200sx due to being SR20 powered as opposed to factory CA18 in the older models.

s13 silvia front grafted onto a rs13 (180/200/240sx) silvia car.

You need to drop the attitude. I don't know what you know as i don't know you from a bar of soap. Given 2 hours ago you thought an intercooler cooled exhaust gas i figured it was rather safe to assume you didn't know much about cars. That doesn't mean i think you are stupid or anything for not knowing that as we all had to start somewhere. This also doesn't excuse replies like the one you have just given. What favour did my last post do me? how did it benefit me in any way? simple answer: It didn't. So whose benefit do you think i posted it for? As you were...

Okay, i've run it by the old geezer and we discussed what his GTO has been known to do. His also can run fine then randomly overheat, what we found it to be on his is a poorly seeling radiator cap, it seems a small amount of gunk/sludge/grime, occasionally comes out of the rad and gets under the cap seal and it can't pressurise properly hence the overheating is caused. Would explain why yours was fine for a 2 hour drive, check under the rad cap for sludge/crud around where it seals, if there is any just give it a clean and put it back on and you should be right, i'd be replacing the rad though as it is the most likely source of afore mentioned gunk.

Thats not even a factory car, it's a sil80... 180sx with s13 silvia front. Born from the s13 front being cheaper to replace, also less weight as you can ditch the pop up headlights etc.

Sounds like a solid plan to go with. I guess see how that goes, there really isn't many other possibilities left. All be worth it when it's right though.

Well i figure you are no fool when it comes to 300zx's never assumed otherwise, but everybody makes mistakes. Like the guy who fixed my first Z from the club here, oh yeah mate ill fix it ive done it 10 times before.... does plenum pull, fixes the water leak, then put the windscreen squirter hose onto the balance pipe and snapped 4 rods... Is fixed really the correct term?

All the intercooler does is cool the intake air as it gets hot as it goes through the turbo housing, simply brings down intake temps, For the intercooler to not cool enough would mean it had a hole in it/split/leak... then the engine would run like a sack of potatoes.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5164960_change-engine-coolant-nissan-zx.html Points of note being turning the heater on and rad cap off while it bleeds, actually just go through the whole thing... :tongue_smilie: 300zx's are a pain to bleed but once its done right following that procedure you can rule out any air lock.

Thanks for that, perhaps merge all the threads on it... It seems you have covered all the bases really, the only coolant system problems i can see that would still remain would be an air pocket in the heater matrix, or a blockage in the water galleries. of the turbo(s) or the block. Component wise you are well set with all the new parts so i suspect it is more of a flow issue. At least you've taken the effort to narrow it down. We can all throw ideas, most will be wrong, but better to check it out than overlook it. Once the old man is vertical i'll see what his input on it is.

Yeap shes pretty damn low, i know a few of the "hellaflush" look guys, not for my but each to thier own, but they can tell you where every speedbump in the city is and direct you on routes to avoid them :lol:

The whole cooling system is mechanical with the viscous clutch fan on the front, The electric fan wont kick in until much later, so for it to climb up in the first place does show a cooling system issue. While we are on the topic i will add a bit i learnt while doing my full rewire. I looked into the differences between the TT and n/a electric fans as i have one of each, and the TT has an extra wire run to it, which upon research is because it is a dual speed fan, alot of people it seems believe the electric fan is only for a/c usage, this is simply not the case... People also do TT swaps and don't bother putting in the 2 speed fan and can run into problems in traffic etc, but as i say i don't think its overly relevant in this case, but worth a mention none the less. Below are the electric fan parameters: The NA Z32 has a single speed auxiliary fan. The following specs are for the NA fan, and come from the Nissan service manual. Temps are in Fahrenheit: A/C off, coolant temp below 219 = fan off A/C off, coolant temp above 221 = fan on A/C on, vehicle speed A/C on, vehicle speed A/C on, vehicle speed > 25mph, coolant below 219 = fan off A/C on, vehicle speed > 25mph, coolant above 221 = fan on The TT Z32 has a two speed fan. The following specs are for the TT fan, and also come from the Nissan service manual with temps in Fahrenheit: A/C off, coolant temp below 219 = fan off A/C off, coolant temp above 221 = fan on A/C on, vehicle speed A/C on, vehicle speed A/C on, vehicle speed > 25mph, coolant below 219 = fan off A/C on, vehicle speed > 25mph, coolant above 221 = fan on As you can see, the fan is ECU controlled (A/C, temp & speed sensor input feeds to ECU, output from ECU for fan operation). It is also obvious the fan should not run very often if the cooling system is operating efficiently. The full write up is here... http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/auxfan/auxfan.html

Yeah but if you followed that thing around you would never get a puncture or grit on your tyres ever again. That piece on the front bumper may as well have bristles.

Wouldn't it have made sense to buy the TV on boxing day as well?

Very nice, you end up paying the extra for the full HD? Sweet crib but where's the tree at. Or is the tv stand the present shelp for blu ray recorders and gaming consoles? :cool3:

Thankyou so much... Finally a way to give the old man shite via santa.

Also, is it actually using any water or is it just overheating? if so how much water is it consuming?

Are there any mods you did prior to the problem first occuring? ie dialled up the boost a bit, chipped the ecu etc etc within 6 months prior to the problem first starting.