Zedzilla

One more to give you a better idea of 18 inch wheel arch filling, this is running 265/35 on an 18x10

Personally i think 19's are a bit overkill on the zx. and you will have to run really low profile tyres to fit them, in the rear to fit in the arches, in the front also arch fitment but you have to also clear the camber arm linkage upright. Here's my project which is running 18x10 rear and 17x8 front.

Haha Oh yes terminated indeed. Happily single these days.

Dave is very particular about his products and won't release anything sub par, i'm more than happy to wait for his products, the smoked side indicators i got from him are just damn beautiful. :thumbup:

A fella called dave who makes the z32 zippo style lighters and many other goodies will have his light up door sills on the market soon, for a far more sensible price.

Never claimed to be all tough and hard. Nor do i have any desire to be.

I'm not trying to show off to anybody or anything, i'm just saying i dealt to him in the appropriate mannor of a swift kicking. :oops::devil2:

HICAS is the devil, i sold that crap for scrap. Yeah Z without power steering isn't my idea of fun, at speed its not so much of an issue as you can feel it happen and just muscle it a bit. Wouldn't want to try parking one without power steering though.

Hmmm my old ZX used to do it but i never managed to track down the problem before totalling it. only seemed to do it on long corners or roundabouts. What i mentioned before is the common problems i've heard of on other forums.

It can also be problems with the wiring but given it didn't start until you topped it up it's not really relevant i thought.

The P/S on a 300zx has to be filled with dextron III automatic trans fluid.

Yeap plenty out there like that!!! Amazing what you walk in on when you come home from work early. I hope you have some new mates?

Here's how mine looks currently, i'm yet to cut brackets and fill holes though, but this has all its wiring on it.

Reality is my car will never be in shows at least not for years until its all painted with the v8 in etc, but i just like to tinker with things and improve them, its a nasty addiction.

Hmmm i see what ya upto! clever! Yeah i've looked into the skyline coil packs but decided not to go that extreme as i'm looking to put a vh41de nissan v8 in within 2-3 years. Heck yeah ya missing out man, wait until i got the v8 in then you can put your foot up it and scare yourself lol :biggrin:

Yeap, woman know these dating sites are full of horny males, you generally wont find any good christian girls waiting for marriage, if they arnt seeking sexual meetings and say they want dating, generally by date 2 unless you're not a complete muppet you should have bedded them lol

I've unplugged them when parting cars just unplug the old one and plug in the new one.

Looking good mate! How are you planning to reroute your fuel lines? With the tuck there probably are much more sane ways to do it than the way i have. I have taken the whole engine loom apart to the ecu plug, so only what needs to come through the firewall ever comes in, essentially all i have coming in goes to the plenum for coilpacks and injectors, exhaust 02 and intake cam sensors, and the wiring for the CAS and water pipe sensors. For the gearbox wiring if you are running auto you can feed to through the hole where the clutch master would go if you wanted to, but i've drilled a hole above the bellhousing so the wiring can just come up through there and hook into the main harness i've made, it's straight plug and play for ease of gearbox removal. the engine loom will only need plenum taken off should i need to engine pull, which is now an easy job with all the extra crap from the plenum gone. The rest is inside the cabin and i was going to run it round seperately to the existing body harness the loops around the front of the car, but much of that wiring just runs to the relay box and gearbox wiring, so that whole loom is being shortened to come inside the car, relay box and all with only wiring for the lights, horns, ABS etc running forward, along with the wiring for the PTU and AFM for them engine loom running with it. Thats the way i'm essentially doing it, but you could get away with just stripping down your engine loom but you will have to extend engine loom wires that run forward, so i picked less wiring rather than adding more to an already complicated system. Hope that makes sense, i think i'm a bit bonkers but if i dont do it it will bug me, and i now have a far better understanding of how the car ticks. but alot of time was spent like this :detective: here's a picture of my engine loom, everything laying on the guard is what to take inside the car which usually runs down the chassis rail. You can see the ECU plug up by the mirror. In the words of Captain Jack Sparrow responding to an accusation of being mad... "Just as well because if i wasn't this would probably never work!" :boat:

Really really really tempted to steal that colour for my balance pipe. :drool: you seem to be going through the same rebuild saga as me mate lol

At least it is digital already so not so bad but i'm definately keen on an s2 upgrade :devil2:

Oh wicked! thanks for that mate! gotta track down one of those!

I mean if you really have to i guess there is no other way :devil2: :whistling:

yeap you higher piston is a jim jammy by the looks of it, not completely look at the pad wear, take pads out and nip iff the dusts seals clean the pistons up, take the cap off your brake resovoir and slowly push them in all the way with a g clamp, should free them up, and wont require a rebleed. you'll need to get that disc machined and do the other front and new pads at the same time.

Depends on driving style if he wants to do some reasonably spirited driving without pushing it hard, drive to work the odd weekend twistys etc they will be fine, i'm running 215 fronts with 285 on the rear. and you will find all drift cars worldwide run 215 or 225 fronts.