GRMAGNUM

Have a look at my drawing not brill but is correct.

It looks like you have lost live feed to indicator , if there is an open circuit because wire is broken or no earth it thinks the bulb has blown. Is this the same on passenger side?? Video only shows driver side. Because as you say loom is separate left and right so if both sides are the same you have lost either two live feeds or both have bad Earth !!! The side indicator should be connected somewhere to the front indicator you coulď try putting another wire in from side indicator to front, this will work , if it then doesnt work you need to give indcator fresh earth connection. Try running wire direct off neg on battery . Quick test I would do is using your meter, neg on battery check indicator for 12v if none try reversing put red lead on to battery pos black on indicator earth. This second test will prove you have good earth

Have you checked again whether you have a 12v feed at front indicators and good earth Seems odd if side indicator is working cos they are on same line! Unless broken wire to front, but that would only stop either right or left not both.

Sorry not yellow should be RED 10AMP FUSE.

Hi, just looked again at circuit , do you realise there are SEPARATE fuses!! There is a fuse at battery end that supplies the HAZARD LIGHTS ! Hence why those work. Now , there is another separate 10 amp fuse in the drivers footwell if this has blown you will not get any turn signals but will still get hazard lights!!!!!!!! Take yellow 10 amp fuse out and replace with known good one.

Ok. If you go to stalk plug side you should have 12volts on pin number 1 , if not you will need to back track to flasher unit. If you DO have 12volts on pin 1 you could try putting a temp link between pin 1 and 2 this should make one side flash. Link between 1 and 3 the other should side flash. If you have 12v on pin 1 and nothing happening when linked you have broken wire between 2 and lights or 3 and lights Chances are only one will be not working ,you will then need to check wires from pin 2 or 3 to the actual lights You just need to keep methodically going though them. Remember you will need ignition On so be carefully when linking or you will of course blow fuses. Like I say multimeter check 12v on pin 1. First

This is what it should look like,

Flasher unit should be behind steering wheel under dash and there is also a bulb check relay that looks like it is on accessories board behind fuses in drivers footwell !!!!! Hard to get too so try flasher tset first.

Having looked at circuit diagram it would seem to be problem between flasher unit or indicator stalk area, I would look at flasher unit and wires to it , this unit is fed via hazard switch in off position . Fuse feeds - hazard switch off position-----feeds flasher unit ----feeds indicator stalk which in turn feeds either right or left bulb. You need to check wires on flasher unit- three wires 1. Feed from hazard switch.2. Earth wire.3.Feed to indicator stalk Number 3 looks likely to be missing. Hope this helps.

Have you tested with multimeter? Check at front indicator 12v on b/l neg is black, if no volts showing put multimeter neg tem on battery neg and test b/l for 12v if ok you have lost your earth on black , to check this put wire on black cable and touch earth on body or battery Ps make sure your ignition is turned on. ,and indicator stalk turned to side you are testing.

It's also good to change air filter and fuel filter as per maintenance schedule.

Yeah the pipe to the fuel damper alters hydrocarbons if you detach the pipe close by opposite on balance bar that goes to aid s and this affects the CO levels! Only pull one at a time depending which you need altering.

Lockdown blues is getting tome. Anybody getting failure on mot for Emissions! Article o 300zx-twinturbo.com shows dutch guy with meters on car showing high failure rate. He then disconnects small pipe to fuel damper and emissions were now passable!! I myself had fail on emissions about fifteen years ago, i removed pipe temporarily and it passed . I remove every time car goes in for mot and has passed every time! ! Ps don't forget to reconnect after mot. Even though car will run ok.!! Hope this is of some help to some one.

There is a good write up about emissions, Google ' Nissan 300zx pass emissions test' and you will find great article about what happens when you temp disconnect pipe from fuel damper at rear driver side of engine. I failed mot emissions took car away disconnected said pipe and passed with flying colours!! I disconnect this pipe every mot and never had another emissions failure again since Ps don't forget to reconnect after mot! The article was on 300zx-twinturbo.com Dutch guy with pics. Hope this is of use to somebody.

Bit bored since lockdown so thought I would Che co2 my drains. I found front pipe just hanging there allowing water into front footwell. I also could not see or find the rubber connector for the pipe! So I took indicator unit off and could see the hole where the rubber pie e should have been. I cut the pipe about 4 inches from top connector and this allowed me to pull excess through so I could poke it out the hole and I drilled a hole in plastic wing cover and push pipe through, now I next got some normal hosepipe and connected both loose ends with some sealant. Water now goes out near front wheel. Easy way for me to check. Not perfect but it works! Photos attached first three front Next four rear set up but I had no leaks. Note little hole where water comes out.

You tube have very good article about SOCIAL DISTANCING SIMULATION ,try and find this ! It will make you understand why washing hands regularly and keeping 2 metres away from people really does work. Keep safe folks

Hiicas ball joints needed press to get out, if you try in situ aluminium arm could easily break.both of mine were shot so needed to be changed.

I just renewed bushes using a vice and plenty of the white grease supplied with the red energy bushes which I bought from concept z performance rear cost around £70 posted . Fiddly but not hard.

Update , i turned engine 12 times and noted results, After 4 turns I was 180 degrees out counting 24 cogs After 6 turns 18 cogs out After 8 turns 12 cogs out After10 turns 6 cogs out Then on 12 turns 0 cogs out back to beginning So I am feeling safe to run engine now. Phew. Big Thanks to those that replied.

Yeah red energy suspension bushes if you lube properly squeaks should not be a problem, i have no squeaks. I did front and rear , i renewed lower suspension arms which have ball joint in them. And also renewed rear ball joints on hicas Made big difference to handling on bends.

Did mine last year, i got polybushes and rear steer joints from concept z performance Most poly bushes went in easily but one was tough took a lot of goes but got there eventually. Good luck with yours.

Used existing tensioner , seemed to be working ok put bolt in it closed ok , opened up after couple of turns. It was about 3mm . I know it should be 4mm . But nothing jumped on sprockets.

Just changed cambelt, 1st cyl Tdc, all cam markers in right place and also crank marker, belt was put on with white lines all matching. Question is when I rotate engine white marks on belt never come back as started!! Do they ever re line up? Every time I rotate, all camshaft and sprocket marks are ok. Has anybody any idea on this!

I had same problem after changing belts, had to tighten several times.then all ok .

Grmagnum mid cheshire