lil Stevie

Just to check Jeff, do I need to take the engine out first?:laugh: All seemed a little to easy until I had a look under there. I couldn't see anything, all the cables looked like they came from the block, nothing stood out as coming from the wing. I can see where you mean behind the wheel, but i'm lost under the bonnet.

I may be at work Sunday, but if i'm not I could be up for a meet....

excellent, cheers Jeff, i'll give it a go tomorrow. now that you mention it, when I was fitting the shock on that side I didn't have a long enough spanner to undo the bottom knut so I was trying my hardest to loosen it with a hammer so that may have done it.

Thanks guys

Is that from you jeff? sounds a bargain to me. What's the difference between the sensor circuit and the solenoid circuit. I'd already checked the sensor (visualy) but couldn't see anything. The cable (which i thought was a break flexy) is just cable tied out the way because the coilovers didn't have the bracket. could that have anything to do with it? Thanks Jeff as always.

So is that the same for the fronts then? unless they have brembo on them they're pointless getting.

uploaded a video if this helps...

The guy didn't seem to know much about it, there wasn't much left of it, engine, transmission and the front breaks had gone, just the rears left, all he could tell me was that it was once an N reg. it didn't look like a GTR, i'll have a better look at it next time i'm about. So basically if there's brembo's stamped on, they're worth having...

Ok so had the Anti-lock light on for a bit now, it came on a few times after I swapped the shocks the first time, over a couple of bumps it would come on, but then after the engine turned off it would be ok. then it stopped coming on altogether for a while, so I forgot about it thinking its fixed itself. Then after fitting the meister R's the other week its come back, and its on all the time, don't even need to move the car, just fire it up and in a second or so it comes on. So after going through some old threads I found this with a nice little tip from Jeff http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?136689-Anti-Lock-warning-light&highlight=anti-lock So whipped off the rear trim and found the ECU, and I'm getting two flash's So i'm guessing Right Front Actuator Solenoid Circuit means the drivers side front wheel, but where do I find the solenoid, and what's my next step. Thanks as always. Steve (if only this taggin system was working I could tag :@jefftt: :whistling: )

ok bud, are they not any different from ours?

Been perusing the local scrap yards and I've found the remains of a R33, the guy said I can have the rear callipers for £30, figured that was a good price, however is there much point? Couldn't find a definitive answer with the search function, I don't think it's a GTR, but someone did tell me once that skyline callipers are lighter than ours. any truth?

So that woulod lead me to believe that if si's just fitted straight to his oem cats, then they should fit my front pipes too...

So if they're all 3", are they all the same? or were there different versions?

I've pm'd you the link Lee. s your's a 3" system si? Did it just bolt straight on?

would the adapter need to be custom made?

Once again another exhaust question from me :confused:... After some looking about I've managed to find a veilside exhaust, its up for nearly a grand but it's a full system with resonated front pipes. So to keep cost down, I was guna keep my 2.5" frontpipes, and just get the Cat back, I'm sure I read somewhere a 3" veilside kit will bolt straight onto a 2.5" standard system, and i'm assuming my front pipes will be the same dimensions as the standard cats. but the guy said it'll need adapters to fit, or is he just saying this to get rid of the full system? Any ideas guys?

I've never managed to get a cheep classic quote, I figured it was just due to my age, but admiral have done me a deal with a multi car policy, So I pay little over £700 for my zed (some mods declared) and my 2.2 diesel civic. They've worked it out as me having 16 years no claims, even though I've only had my license 8 years. I've got every other eligible family member as named drivers though to bring the price down but it's low enough for me.

There's a local group 'Jap North East' that used to meet at the Nissan place in Sunderland every month. the company would open up the grounds for them, and there's a café and playground for kids, and a shit load of space. They sometimes have drift events there. If it would help I could talk to some people and try and find a contact for Nissan.

yeah mine leaks form the wiper grommet after heavy rain, it always has. I was gunna get it removed but I use it to much.

yes this is a worry, and i'm still on my first set of turbo's....I think

yes this is a worry, and i'm still on my first set of turbo's....I think

He said to have the cut outs fitted it would basically double the price of the system, so it would end up been cheaper getting the varex system. Although if I do go the way of just an ordinary system, they are definitely on the short list.

He said to have the cut outs fitted it would basically double the price of the system, so it would end up been cheaper getting the varex system. Although if I do go the way of just an ordinary system, they are definitely on the short list.

I've solved it, turns out the fruit polo had more to do with it than was thought. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72433[/ATTACH] It would appear (although I could be wrong) that this little thing when It was whole, fixed on the bracket on the break pedal and poked through a whole to push the switch in (N/C contact) for the lights, however as mine broke the switch was extended (closed) all the time leaving the lights on. I'm not proud of it, but I have bodged it, using a small headed screw I had lying around I've managed to get it through the hole on the bracket, secured of course. and it now appears to work. I could of done a better job but it's a god awful position to be in, and to have to keep pushing the pedal made it awkward and I wasn't prepared to take it off. Here's a photo of the back end of the switch to try and give an idea. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72436[/ATTACH] So just remember folks....beware of the green fruit polo :laugh:

I've solved it, turns out the fruit polo had more to do with it than was thought. It would appear (although I could be wrong) that this little thing when It was whole, fixed on the bracket on the break pedal and poked through a whole to push the switch in (N/C contact) for the lights, however as mine broke the switch was extended (closed) all the time leaving the lights on. I'm not proud of it, but I have bodged it, using a small headed screw I had lying around I've managed to get it through the hole on the bracket, secured of course. and it now appears to work. I could of done a better job but it's a god awful position to be in, and to have to keep pushing the pedal made it awkward and I wasn't prepared to take it off. Here's a photo of the back end of the switch to try and give an idea. So just remember folks....beware of the green fruit polo :laugh: