Slick Pete.

Some of what you say Nick is true but unfortunately some of you say is rubbish too. Lets look at some facts..... Swine flu is a type of Flu virus. True. It is a new virus entity tho for the UK and therefore it is not correct to say that its a very mild form... We simply dont know yet. Its not related to the common cold virus Rhinovirus tyope( except for the fact that it is a virus too) It may well be no more severe than a cold in some people BUT in many it will be. Since its all new to the UK we dont know yet. Here in the UK we are indeed used to a variety of flu viruses, however the vast majority of the population is NOT vaccinated against any form of flu virus. The existing flu vaccine normally distributed to at risk groups of patients is quite specific and does not confer a general immunity to all flu type viruses. There is a specific Swine flu virus being developed as I post but it is not yet licenced for use and it will be in limited supply once it does gain regulatarory approval. Well that means many many people, probably several million should be worried about any new unknown type of flu arriving in the UK. ALL very young babies/children. All elderly people(even if they are normally healthy. ALL diabetics. ALL people with asthma,COPD and cardiovascular problems etc etc. The government too is concerned about it as they have stockpiled millions and millions or packs of the anti viral drug Tamiflu on a scale never known before. Now wards are being set aside in hospitals to cope with cases should they arise and keep them separate from the hundreds of thousands of other hospital patients to whom the virus could be fatal. And I have a funny feeling I will be spending a lot of my working time over the next 6 months fielding enquiries about Swine flu and maybe distributing supplies of Tamiflu. There is no need to panic:nono: Tabloid scaremongering and hype can be ignored.:xxx: But you all need to be aware of the potential for all of this to turn serious. I rest my case:)

Thanks for confirming my suggestion originally made on June 20th:D

This may well be the cause of the low power at low revs. Its probably way too big for an NA.

Just so Dave. Its a late 95 car Version S with the optional Recaro front seats. Its just arrived so it has never seen salty roads. its from a trader so more protection than from a private seller. Its 10 times better than the vast majority of early G & H reg stuff foating about in this country some of which have been here for nearly a decade.# Its 20 times better than many UK cars which are or were full of rot from end to end. IMO its the perfect blank canvas to ... 1. Use as is and enjoy. 2. Build a top spec car to your own taste. I bet £4600 would buy it:cool: Just needs a full check out by an expert BEFORE purchase. Do we know anyone near B'Ham airport:confused: Say Tamw****:confused: All IMHO of course. Too many people looking for Z32s with only £2.5 K in their pocket

Caveat Emptor. If you buy a car and complete the transaction knowing there is no log book then it falls to the buyer to sort it out. Fill a form out pay the fee and await logbook. Simples

:confused::confused::confused: So are they used pistons then??? Are they cast?? Or forged??? All the info I have posted still stands regardless of where you got them from However if the original(unknown) rings were no good then how do you know the pistons are any good?? Have you checked them for ovality?? Have you examined each ring land for damage. Piston rings are specific to their piston. Mix n match just wont work.You need the correct ring. And to get the correct ring you need to know who made the piston.

To avoid a SWB skipping about you need to be extremely careful with spring rates. Bolting on springs designed for a heavier 2+2 can worsen the handling.

You will need matching rings for them from the same supplier as the pistons. The block will then be bored to the correct size for the piston . You need to take the pistons with the block to the machine shop. The exact clearance is determined by the end use of the engine.

Exactly.:cool: the world is full of cars. Some are drop dead georgious and some just naf.

At least double the cost of rebuilding a VG30 eng. Z32 box not compatible I dont think.

Rust free as per pic. As far as I know the same pipe fits all 2+2s. From a1994 NA 2+2. they are frequently rotten on UK cars.

turb0z NW Events Organiser turb0z's Avatar Quote: And to anyone who's never dealt with Pete, well give him a go he really is the most helpful gay I've had dealings with on this forum __________________ You are heading for a:slap: :xxx: :mac1:

Well here is the list of those who said they were attending. Toftdale later posted he couldnt make it. so who went?? And who didnt? 01) Ceejay (02) Shel ZX (03) Luke (04) Croeso (05) Bantambunny (06) Gruntpa64 (07) Vinz (08) artztogo + Marie Anne (09) Bobby Fame (10) Bobby Fames Brother (11) philevans (12) Romaine (13) edk83 (14) toftdale (15) aardvark161 + wife (16) JJP + 2 (17) TiZer (18) mikey bean (19) zed1 (20) TonyC + Donna

is this what you want??? Ready to post if it is;) PM me if you want it.

Well the next step if there is no signal at the injector connector is to check if there is an OUTPUT signal from the CAS. If there is then the fault lies in the wiring between the CAS and the injector plug. If there isnt an output signal from the CAS then you need to move to the INPUT side of the CAS to see if it is receiving an INPUT signal. If its receiving an input signal then the CAS itself is faulty. If its not then the fault lies further back up the system.

Are you getting an electrical signal at the injector????? You need to test this with a Noid light. Connect the Noid light across the injector plug and crank engine. If you get a light flash then you are getting a signal to the injector. If not then you need to look further away from the injector back up the loom . The next item back up the line is the cas. You need to follow problems like this in a logical and methodical manner. But jumping from one bit to another wont get a result except by luck. Logical problem solving will always eventually arrive at the fault.

Of course.:mac1: I have the full professional kit.;)

I dont think so... It fouls on the intercooler pipe work.

I have a complete set of all the locks on one key if you need them. Just PM me to discuss;)

3/16" copper will be fine. You will need some short metric "Nissan style" tube nuts too. Alternatively many motor shops/ garages will make a pipe to order if you take the old one as a pattern. Often at very reasonable money. A better idea if you dont have the correct flaring kit to DIY . Copper is easier than Kunifer to work with . Here is a pic of the lower rad support panel. Check if its this or the engine one you need.( Bear in mind I havent drilled it off the chassis legs yet) More info + pics to follow........

Starting at the bottom of your post...... the link you have posted for braided brake lines is to replace the stock rubber ones only. The best plan for replacing the steel ones when they are corroded is to use copper or copper alloy(Kunifer) these are measured and made with replacement ends to match the originals. as already said replacing these metal pipes is a labour intensive PITA. Now moving to the "crossmember". this can be a confusing term. Many people refer to the crossmember meaning the metal bridge across the engine bay which supports the engine. On UK cars I have seen this corrode and need replacing. This is relatively straight forward as it is a Bolt-in piece..( please note I didnt say easy!!) The other piece referred to as a crossmember is the lower radiator support panel. This too corrodes and often gets damaged by idiots with trolley jacks:smash: Replacing this is not simple and quite tedious as it is a welded in part of the shell. So unpicking of spot welds required and re-welding of replacement is required. This will need doing to MOT standard. HTH. and if you need either crossmember then I can supply:x: :D

Im sorry to hear about this. Reading thru your post I personally think you should be nominated for a "member of the year" award for your calm, kind and caring actions in a very difficult situation.:bow::bow:

The neighbours do love me cos I help them fix their cars for free!! 30 minutes with the angle grinder to cut up. The rest of the job was done in total silence really. I only average one or maybe two breakers a year so very little disturbance really. i dont work on other peoples cars only my own so no angle for any council official to investigate. With this car I was "helping a friend(Keith 5700)" Its highly unlikely that I will have another breaker this year now as Im busy finishing off a long term 240Z rebuild and then I need to get back on building /finishing my new slicktop.

the words "cheap" and "nice" just dont fit in the same sentense.:slap: Cheap audio stuff looks good like most of the shit made to go on Ebay but sounds cack and wont last. there are plenty of cheap ways to change your interior. You could buy a few metres of cheap vinyl and stick it everywhere. :( unfortunately it will look worse than the original tweed:wack: There are quite a few nice interiors in forum members cars but they aint cheap.

:rofl::rofl::rofl: