Stephen

Don't think they are here yet bud it'd still Tuesday.

Welcome back. Pictures or ban. :lol:

Agreed.

Stolen recovered then I'd guess.

Agreed rather ackward position for both parties. My hunch is it's a stolen car, if it was a write off the effort to repair would likely of been higher than ringing it. No real effort has been made to make a new identity, the firewall has simply had the chassis number ground off, not even a lick of paint to hide it. I very much doubt the law would be interested though, it's not going back now is it. Feel sorry for you Chris and really hope this hurdle is passed.

I think a long hard chat with the importer needs to occur, not that I'm saying it's his fault but as the importer some responsibility must be taken as you haven't really got what you paid for and imho your entitled to some form of compensation.

Does this mean your dolly is back in the pram then mate? :lol:

They will always be lower than stock shocks. Don't forget the spring rate is likely much higher, so with the cars weight the shock will compress far less, ie if they were equal length uncompressed the stock shock would be lower. In short as Baz said stop messing about and fit them.

Because it separates the flow. Instead of turbine side air and waste gate side air mixing together is a malestorm you get get a smoother air flow. More air is able to pass due to reduced turbulence and therefore resistance. This is turn means less lag and greater flow.

So you just want some noise, bit Rice that mate. The spool and efficiency are the point, the extra noise is a trade off.

I'm a bit confused. Are you still using the stock turbo elbows? What decat/front pipe are you using?

The track will likely change with how you've got that set up atm, until it's under tension from the upright the arc won't be true. So until it's fitted and on the floor your measurement is unlikely accurate or fixed.

Yeah just an engine serial on the block, which is at the rear drivers side, bloody hard to see and doesn't really tell you anything useful. The Chassis number will start GCZ32 as its a lwb. Bit worrying this really. I really hope you manage to sort it out.

So what your telling us is, it's down to piss poor maintence :lol:

Happens. Have you split that chain? These chains these days don't like it and you should use a link. Christ knows why. BMX chains are still built the old way and can be split without ill effect.

Have a search on here; http://www.350z-uk.com/index.html They have a very help trader Alex I think his name is who will be able to tell you exactly what's good and what's crap.

Good luck and keep us all posted. I've been toying with doing a Marathon myself but I don't think il ever actually do it lol.

I went Plymouth to Rosscoffe, there was a reason we didn't go from Poole, can't remember what it was though.

Make sure the clutch is aligned, grab some long bolts and use them to pull the box into place.

Fine, the weekend in question then.

I think, think, I'm off to Hereford this weekend. In fact Septembers pretty rammed for me. If I don't go to Hereford il come along.

Your turbo spins backwards of stalls/flutters. It's felt that this isnt very good for them.

Sorry Jeff but that's just not quite right. Plenty of guys running E Fans, on many high performance cars including the Z32. Ford Tanus and Volvo v70 fans are extremely popular choices. It's do able and whilst it's less likely, there's every possibility that some ones done the job properly. The viscous fan is great and moves a huge CFM but a fans a fan, as long as it moves the right amount of air and fits It will have the same end effect. Virtually no production cars feature viscous fans these days. What I'm saying is. Inspect and monitor, don't just jump straight at it. It might be perfectly adequate or even better.

What are all the switches for?

Let's not be so quick to get all over excited about the E Fan, firstly you can't see it and therefore have no knowledge of what's fitted. It is entirely possible to find and fit a suitable E Fan it's just most people get it wrong. It's not a cheap option. It's an NA with a TT rad, an aftermarket one at that. I'd check the tempretures but if it is working I see no reason to rip it off. For the OPs reference as he's new to zeds. The stock temp gauge is a stepper motor, it effectively reads cold, normal and hot. If the needle moves from the middle northwards it's already overheating. Fortunately temp gauges are cheap and easy to instal or you can connect to Conzult etc and read the ECUs temp sensor.