Stephen

Happens. Have you split that chain? These chains these days don't like it and you should use a link. Christ knows why. BMX chains are still built the old way and can be split without ill effect.

Have a search on here; http://www.350z-uk.com/index.html They have a very help trader Alex I think his name is who will be able to tell you exactly what's good and what's crap.

Good luck and keep us all posted. I've been toying with doing a Marathon myself but I don't think il ever actually do it lol.

I went Plymouth to Rosscoffe, there was a reason we didn't go from Poole, can't remember what it was though.

Make sure the clutch is aligned, grab some long bolts and use them to pull the box into place.

Fine, the weekend in question then.

I think, think, I'm off to Hereford this weekend. In fact Septembers pretty rammed for me. If I don't go to Hereford il come along.

Your turbo spins backwards of stalls/flutters. It's felt that this isnt very good for them.

Sorry Jeff but that's just not quite right. Plenty of guys running E Fans, on many high performance cars including the Z32. Ford Tanus and Volvo v70 fans are extremely popular choices. It's do able and whilst it's less likely, there's every possibility that some ones done the job properly. The viscous fan is great and moves a huge CFM but a fans a fan, as long as it moves the right amount of air and fits It will have the same end effect. Virtually no production cars feature viscous fans these days. What I'm saying is. Inspect and monitor, don't just jump straight at it. It might be perfectly adequate or even better.

What are all the switches for?

Let's not be so quick to get all over excited about the E Fan, firstly you can't see it and therefore have no knowledge of what's fitted. It is entirely possible to find and fit a suitable E Fan it's just most people get it wrong. It's not a cheap option. It's an NA with a TT rad, an aftermarket one at that. I'd check the tempretures but if it is working I see no reason to rip it off. For the OPs reference as he's new to zeds. The stock temp gauge is a stepper motor, it effectively reads cold, normal and hot. If the needle moves from the middle northwards it's already overheating. Fortunately temp gauges are cheap and easy to instal or you can connect to Conzult etc and read the ECUs temp sensor.

I recon due to your location and cooler design your measuring the cold side so to speak. As its full flow design and it cools the oil before it passes through the block. So it's reading the cooled oil not the average. And it's constantly being cooled, stay stuck open. Time to test; A. the accuracy of the gauge or its sender, B. the temp differential between pre and post cooled oil. Is it a thermistor style sender?

Shame it's just such an expensive way of doing things.

Cool. I'm thinking about upgrading my rears.

As much as I love the VG, I don't think I'd put it in that. Weight and maintence being the key parts. An SR20 isn't a bad shout. Id be tempted to throw in something modern with a 4 banger. Easily find 100-150hp engines these days that return great MPG. Make it something you can enjoy for the sake of enjoying.

Did you do the bias math?

So sorry if I missed it, what calipers are you using at the back with these SRT8 fronts?

I had a similar thing. The best solution was to use an OEM knob, which is weighted and actually worked better as well.

I get about 85c on both the Zed and the Skoda for oil temp.

Have you driven it yet? You should come on boost noticeably earlier.

I borrowed a pair of these of a mate, not the exact same but very similar. Means you can rest the back end very safely on the rear chassis rails. Makes that whole area nice and open. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cax-3tbc-3-ton-axle-stands/

Enjoy that little Jag, brilliant car and a definite future icon.

Is the "Renault" in the background by chance or design?

You may need a 3/8 one for the turbo bolts mate, don't think there's enough room for the 1/2". Might be able to do it with a UJ.

Yeah why not...:lol: