Everything posted by Stephen
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Manual conversion and high idle?
so when we say join how do we mean rather than splice? do i cut the wire from pin 44 and join with one of the neutral switch cables, and the other to a ground on the chasis or do you use a ground from the ecu? also are the neutral switch cables poled or simply a switch and therefore it doesn't matter which way you use it? and final question lol, do you use a connector from the auto loom? or do you just simply cut off the plug and join it through?
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Manual conversion and high idle?
i believe from what ive read you are correct mark however the neutral switch should be done as this will help the situation further. so i will be doing both.
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Manual conversion and high idle?
So do we think pin 44 to neatral switch will cure the idle?
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Manual conversion and high idle?
Where can I find this elusive pin 44?
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Manual conversion and high idle?
Yeah also get the rally car burble, and some smoke. I assumed it was my tub seals but hoping its actually running rich. Pulls like a fecking train though.
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Manual conversion and high idle?
I very much agree did your idle high before you chsnged tge timing vs?
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Manual conversion and high idle?
Im very confused about pin 44 and ghe neutral switchm anyone care to expandm and yeah quavey thats how I understood it.
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Manual conversion and high idle?
Yeah fine hes working again now so the old bumble bee will be back soon.
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Thinking of a colour (help)
Omg!you, like, so totally took the words out my mouth bazzie.
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Manual conversion and high idle?
Neither of us have done the neautral switch I lead to belive its best left alone.
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Manual conversion and high idle?
Talking to ultimateray this evening both of our cars are autos convertted to manual. And we both have high idles when warm around 1500 and 2k with clutch depressed. Looking about it sems in the us they routinly knock down the idle speed after a manual conversion. Is this right and do I still need to do it?
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Someone finally made the front of a supra look good
Cant polish a turd :p
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Talk to me about turbo rebuilding/replacement
I havent yet no as as you know I have a wealth of turbo factors on my doorstep. After your recent issues would you use turbo dy againm or has it left a bitter taste? The other company was cr turbos.
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Help / Advice needed
Sounds like carbonation. The old chap prob never gave it some stick. Loads of querks were sorted on mine simply by driving
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Thinking of a colour (help)
Keep is gloss or you will have to change soo much to pull it off.
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Talk to me about turbo rebuilding/replacement
Mine are smoking lightly after decatting. Its a pisser but thats life. Ive been given 2 quotes to rebuild one of 190 a side the other over 300 a side. The cheaper being from turbo dynamics. I know I can rebuild myself and get them balanced, the balancing is around 60. So whats my options and whats the deal with 360 bearings? And should I even bother doing a rebuild or would an upgrade be within budget, and worth doing. I onl yh want about 350 to 400 usable horses. My budjet is a max of 600 for a complete job. With the block out il be able to deal with those pesky rocker seals. And renew the turbo oil lines. So lets discuss.
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A mention for the good guy's
Ive not had any issues with any sellers, ive had parts of gonzo and baz and bantambunny and theyve all been very helpfull. Not only have I made some genuine friends through this forum but if it wasnt for this forum and some zedworld magic, car would long since been scrapped
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Help / Advice needed
Esp the frront one under the plenum. Might just need a good blast through.
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just my luck help needed
worth a go aint it. hopefully you will get an answer. it may just be filthy.
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just my luck help needed
as above, firstly if your sure there a spark. fire the car up and let it run, then get a long screw driver and place the shaft on the injector itself you should hear a loud clicking through the screwdriver which should be a uniform noise to all the others. if its clicking away happy as larry then turn the engine off and pop off the injector plug. you will see inside two little prongs check these are clean, clean with electrical switch cleaner if necessary. once clean, set the multimeter to ohms it looks like a horse shoe. by placing the multimeter on each prong you will get a resistance, it should be 10 to 14 ohms i believe with around 12.4 being stock resistance. if you get a reading out of this range shes fubar! theres plenty of youtube vids to show you aswel. pictures worth a thousand words and all.
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No power and car not starting!!!
the battery is still charged? do you get any lights on the dash or is it just blank? you have a small group of 5 or so fuses next to the brake master cylinder, a large one that has a blue wire on it is the battery fuse. if you get lights and turn the key can hear the fuel pump prime but the starter doesnt kick in, im guessing youve forgotten to reconnect the two cables.
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do swb decats/front pipes fit a LWB?
i couldnt say for certain but the car is only different at the rear, so the mid of the car backwards. so i would expect them to be differnt only in the cat back section of things.
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Passangerside turbo heatshield. Can I remove this?
Since the divorced downpipes the tub has no where to bolt in the top nut on the heatshield so it rattles occasiknally. Can I remove it or will it cook the ecu?
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Engine misfire/cylinder not firing...Advice needed please
Youd be best of replacing the loom. Happens regualry with the heat and age. You could try slicing in new injector and coil pack connectotorzs but a new loom would be best.
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Happy Birthday Mark Derby
Wehay happy birthday