Stephen

No worries mate. Il be there when you arrive to guide you all in. :D

Well done mate, it's honestly a pig isn't it. The rear clip pinged out when I was looking at it funny, lost it as well so I got two new ones from CR turbos which they kindly donated. The thing that's concerning me most at present is getting those pesky actuator bolts back in. You coming to japfest bud?

Not too bad, a bit less than doing a TT obviously with less stuff. Not so much special tools but well armed, 4 spanners and 1/4 drive ratchet ain't gonna cut it. Halfords do a set for £130 I think, which is pretty complete for most things. Obviously an engine crane, axel stands, jacks etc. You have a lot more space, but stuff like the loom being fragile and rusty bolts are all part and parcel if it.

The loop is factory iirc, it's for CAS timing.

Not sure on those wheels mark, offset is whack.

Give the rad a damn good flush through, water should pass freely from a hose in and out again.

Ptu only transfers power to the coil packs. So if there was a spark then that's working. I don't personally rate all this screw driver jazz, too much noise and interference. Test the connector is sending out power.

Some shit "mechanics" in derby that specialise in Japanese cars, breaking cars doesn't make you a Mechanic, just a bodging con artist.

What sort of brembos were they?

I hear what your saying jeff, however these boxes could potentially effect us all. The minority ruining it for the majority again. Young drivers, their insurance and the rate of accidents they are involved in is undeniably an issue. Possibly some of it is media hounding and misuse of statistics, does today's 17 year old drive worse than yesterday's? Well the cars are faster but significantly better in terms of handling and brakes and let's not forget safety features. Obviously that doesn't help pedestrians. It must also be remembered that the vast majority if accidents I see and I suspect most people see involve people between 30 and 50 that likely should know better. If the vast majority of new drivers are having/causing accidents we need to asses why, they recently passed a test that said they were fit to drive...if that isn't the case, then the test or training procedure is inadequate.

Me and my dad both brought a set, maybe not that brand but yeah...mine are fine my dads the drivers side snapped on the motor way...

Right so some more done. A trip to Halfords got me the 1/2" UJ I needed 2 minutes later the down pipe was off. Like this, I then got 3 of the 4 filter tree retaining bolts off. Sadly the actuator arm is in the way of the top front bolt...so removal of the actuator is necessary, to remove that the 19mm bolt on the turbo for the coolant feed needs to come out the way. Like this. Dont be fooled though, the two 10mm bolts for the actuator are extremely fiddly, the last bolt on the filter tree is equally tight and 100,000 1/8th turns of a 12mm swan neck will see it come free. Some aggression later and we are here. Want to guess why it leaked? Well I realised half way through the top two bolts weren't securing the tree, once it was all out I can see why. The top two were full of gasket sealant, so they had bottomed out about 3mm short, also the gasket was absent. Nice one.

The criticism has been that it's a great way to charge people more, for not having one or for their driving. 1200 on a 1.0l polo! I assume you must either; Live in Baghdad, Have a chequered driving history, or Be about 12?

Have you ever done it in situee jimmer?

Of corse why didn't I think about that, I've already got that off. The clip itself projectiled off across the drive though so i need another.

Tell me about it. One of those days as well, everything was 10 tines harder than it should of been, it took me ages to get the starter motor off. By this time tomorrow hopefully il be a load further forward. I can see me having to remove the turbo in situee at this rate though. Thank god I didn't bend all the tabs on the exhaust gasket back over.

So I've had a pesky oil leak for some time now, it's got to be dealt with. Sadly it's in just about the worst place possible, the oil filter tree. So today I started, I've learnt a few things already. It's damn near impossible to remove the top bolt of the starter motor without a 1/2" UJ, I say damn near, I did manage it. Next up the top two down pipe bolts also require a 1/2" UJ (guess what I'm off to halfords for tomorrow afternoon) In summary, the actuator arm completly blocks the top bolts of the filter tree, and the bolts to remove the actuator are also in a PITA location, hopefully removing the water pipe will allow access. Found this worrying oil deposit though...I immedidately thought turbo failure, however I seem to remember that the turbo can't leak like that. So I assume it's from the other leak, but I dunno....

You can get them from the states

It can take a while to warm up its a big engine compared to most modern engines. Once upto temperature it should sit half way, when off or cold you should be able to see two tiny white dots at the 9 o'clock position, should be covering them. The stock gauge is crap though, it tends to have three readings, cold, correct and overheating.

What work are you having done at Automodz?

Definatly PTU? Soon as it cools down it will work again.

Stunning mate.

Lovely to see the zeds, even a z31 there I spy. I visited Barcelona a few years, crazy city.

In all seriousness I've gotta give mine a luck if paint, so il be interested in what paint is best.

Florescent green, or black to keep them hidden as they do look like biscuits.