Stephen

Got mine, so not me. Just to let you all know, il be there from 6am to help out.

It's hard to tell from the video, I'm guessing it was a cold engine yeah? Idle sounds high, maybe a bit of an exhaust leak...hard to tell.

Get up, get out, get gone boys. If your not early your late, il be there from about 6am.

Also the positive side parasitically pulls on the negative side of the induction circuit. Ie blow by is sucked through the top cam cover vents when on boost rather than pulled in as when on vacumme.

As above really. You shouldn't get positive crankcase pressure from boost, at all. If the PCV should be forced closed even harder with more boost.

LOL great.......

Not on an NA, its not going to be fun but its not impossible, is it passenger side?

Mines loud, and I'm going to work on a way to make it controllably even louder...Sometimes you want quiet, but sometimes you want demonically loud.:devil2:

You could try cutting a slot and hope that it causes enough slack for them to wind out, but you wont have any thing to purchase on as you've cut it all off, you would need to drill and put an extractor on the stud, still involves drilling. You could try some brand new HSS drill bits, you will be there forever with old, blunt bits.

If you've got to go that route in future, cut the other side, through the nut not the bolt. That then leaves the stud as bri said to get hot and get out. Time to unbolt the manifold and try again, sorry mate. If you don't have the equipment or the confidence to drill these out and tap them, may be worth bunging a local fabrication company some beer tokens, wont take 10 minutes. Alternatively get your hands on another manifold. If you've got the cash....I believe hellraiser has some tubular NA headers, he certainly had them up for sale I cant remember if they sold though.

Taking the time getting the starter and downpipe out, I recon was invaluable. The top rear bolt can be accessed from the rear and your arm is happily in the space where the downpipe was, (the starter has to come off to get to the top bolts on the downpipe) I take it from the picture you used some sort of sealant on refit? I haven't as it doesn't say anything about it in the manual, also I didn't have any in stock. All im worried about now is the tree being on square etc as obviously there's not enough space to torque them up. I just nipped all four up, then tightened them off, there about 12-15ftlb the FSM recommends I believe, which isn't much. Actuator clip and 10mm securing bolts still to go.....not looking forward to that I'l be honest.

Take a picture, sometimes it's easier to cut the flange in a v shape and knock the stud out.

Got an hour or two in this afternoon after work, firstly I changed the 'O' ring inside the tree this helps regulate pressure within the system, mine was flattened and solid. Filter tree is now back in, just got to make sure im happy with them before full reassembly. A selection of the tools I used for the filter tree bolts, yes that's right 4 different 12mm spanners. Also I took this picture with human interest, the rear two turbo flange bolts are accessed quite easily from the rear, the front ones which at first glance seems impossible, this photo shows that actually they're likely easier than the other two :)

What have you done lol....that bloody manifold will be right fun, even on an NA.

This a daily or for classic SDP policy only?

It's possible of corse, next time you have the car I the air have a good look. If the oil is magically appearing on the tree but no where else, that's the answer. I didn't do this job when I had my engine out, in hindsight it would have been a lot easier. However I was told it's extremly rare for it to leak, so I assumed it was just the leaky rockers, turns out it was both. Especially seeing as I had no gasket in there, it's not surprising. Bit of a misnomer my engine.

Feck.

That was the clue then, haha. That's fine though.

Not a problem mate, if it's helpfull for myself and others in future then that's a real bonus.

That's really helpfull thankyou Andrew, shame is doesn't list the thread length. Think I've got my head round which go where now though.

It's not much extra effort while your there to pop out the rear cards and veiw into the sills, get some anti corrosion product down there :)

Well the plot thickens, I took the time to clean the mating faces and threads up today. I've got 4 different length bolts... Can imagine that's correct. It would explain the excessive play in the top two though. I'm quite tempted to fit x3 studs and do this way will make replacement easier as well.

Agreed.

That's not our usual spot is it Steve?