Stephen

I think the torsion arm business is more to do with solid ones or the early type of poly bushes. My fronts are polybushed, Jeff did them about 4 years ago maybe.

Cheers Jimmer, I already tried that. I used a depth gauge to measure the maximum bolt length and made an M10 to suit, that grabbed about three threads, I did this when I was doing the other work recently. Obviously it wasn't enough as its now resting on the slave lol, that's why the noise goes away when I depress the clutch the slave moved the starter, I doubt it would work if I tried again. Thank god I didn't make it to Japfest as that could of been a PITA, one of the reason why I aborted I hadn't had any sort of dry run before it. I was gonna look at it today but went to the Bournemouth car show this morning and its been horrid out there this afternoon. Hopefully I'll get a chance to sort it one night this week if I'm at home. might get some helicoils in so I can do it that way if needs be, better than a weekend of not being able to use it for a silly little bolt.

The electric fan only operates when required by the AC or in an emergency overheat. If the car has only operated at idle it will take a while to process out that oil you put in. It's gonna be all over the exhaust etc. Good news on the block test, did you find the coolant leak? As for turbo seals, you get different symptoms. If the front seal has failed the engine ingests oil, it will be everywhere in your induction system and plenum. If the rear seal has failed, you will get plumes of white/grey smoke at idle that clears with the revs. This is how mine behaved when the tub seals had failed, slightly different but still pretty textbook. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?163503-seriously-disheartened-now-and-just-wanna-burn-the-car-help!/page3&highlight=Turbo+failure

Is it making any weird noises? The oil pressor senders on these cars fail notoriously.

Pier jump footage.... http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8USdfe0Jgcw I missed most of the event, was back late Saturday, busy Sunday and it began to drizzle today so didn't see much of it. Saw some beautiful super cars, such as Carrera GT, Enzo, Mclaern F1 and both the new SLS and the 1950s version, along with various other Lambos, ferraris etc. I could hear the monster trucks from about a mile away but her feet were aching by then. Grabbed a bratwurst from the market and mooched on home. Big buzz locally as there's been F1 and Lemon cars driving up and down the over cliff. It's been declared a success by the council, who have stated this FREE event has the go ahead again next year!!!

And you need to jack the front up as high as possible with the heater on full temperature, just keep topping it up till the bubbles stop and it's full of water.

Ahh nice to hear it bud. I take it the long term project has been abandoned?

I still remain opertmistic that there's a chance you simply cooked the engine last time and this hose split after that causing all the electrics to get wet and it run like crap. I don't fully believe that but it's an option, little steps mate.

I was thinking that, then questioned myself

Things are looking up already

There's a coolant leak as well so hopefully two birds and all. I know you do the same as me bean fix the fuel leak and coolant leak then fire it up and see what happens...but I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to someone else for their car.

That's how mine is plumbed up as well. Although I ran a second line for the clutch booster using a manual balance bar, as my mate did it your way and lost the brake booster due to a leak in the clutch booster. Less prone to failure that way, be shit to loose the brakes due to the clutch one failing.

Still will be a touch lower and is less accurate but yeah I agree it's that 90 psi one that concerns me, esp in relation to the 140 psi next to it... I think it's time to pressure test the coolant system and see if that cylinder gets wet, sound like a plan?

They are stone cold tests don't forget mikey.

After such a short period, (that motors not even run it yet has it?) arn't you under warranty with the builder?

Pretty sure that's fairly normal, it should quieten down. Happy to be corrected though.

Expert, no. I know just enough about anything to get me in trouble haha. The Zeus book holds the answer to things like drilling for taps though which is all stuff I was taught when doing my apprenticeship. I can do all the bits I suggested, I was just after the way that's most logical from those who have done it previously because of the location. I really can't be bothered to pull the gearbox to sort it out and I doubt there's any need too. It may well me the the head of an m12 doesn't even fit because it fouls on the starter, haven't checked yet. Then were confined to the helicoil.

The hicas solenoid? Yup that can go, along with all the hicas pipework. You should have three pipes on the na system. One hight pressure line from the pump to the rack, a low pressure line from the rack to pas pot and a thick 26mm? Line from the pas pot to the pump.

If your converting to the na pump etc in the process, you will need the na PAS pot, pump, pump bracket I think that's it... You don't need to replace the wiring, you need to mod the loom that goes to the box from where the hicas solenoid is there plenty of write ups, this gives you reverse lights. The starter relay needs to be shorted out, I think there are various ways to do this but I simply cut it out and joined the two blue cables, you will find this relay under the drivers side wing, remove the plastic splash shield and its sat there. Then you have pin 44 on the ECU to earth via the neutral switch, this sorts out the timing. The base idle will need to be reset as there is less mass on the drivetrain at idle therefore it will idle high, again theres good write ups for these things. Check the continuity of the neutral and reverse switches before installation of the box makes life easier. My reverse was stuffed so I utilised the switch off an xtrail I think it was, available from euro car parts for about £18 :D HTH

;) sadly been there done that. The remaining thread was obviously insufficient, and at least the lower one is hanging out I recon the top one as well now, I will have to inspect it to find out. In terms of the starter slot, a file will quickly remove 1mm off each side to allow the starter to accept the new thread. The other advantage of doing it with a pair of 12mm studs, aside from the fact I've got two lengths of m12 threaded bar sat in my utility, is the fact the starter can be slotted on and is less likely to fall off and hit me in the head during maintenance, it already hit me in the chest previously when the bottom bolt fell out and the whole starter came crashing down like a tonne of bricks on me, ouch.

Thruxton could work, as you say its pretty central. All input is welcome here guys.

That's exactly what I said in post 34. It will be less accurate but if it's totally fubar it will tell you very quickly.

The drill thickness for a m12x1.75 is 10.2mm so seeing as it's stripped I've already got a 10mm hole, just about the right size for the m12 tap to run through ;) hence why I suggested it.

It's pretty well logged in my brain :D

I Spose that depends where your stood lol, looking front the engine towards the rear of the car it's about 7 o'clock the bottom ones pretty accessible the one above the trans tunnel is in the way a bit if you were gonna drill it. Being aluminium though, and only 2mm less really as you don't drill at 12 to get a m12 thread, It's likely about 1mm of material to remove.