Stephen

Pretty sure that's fairly normal, it should quieten down. Happy to be corrected though.

Expert, no. I know just enough about anything to get me in trouble haha. The Zeus book holds the answer to things like drilling for taps though which is all stuff I was taught when doing my apprenticeship. I can do all the bits I suggested, I was just after the way that's most logical from those who have done it previously because of the location. I really can't be bothered to pull the gearbox to sort it out and I doubt there's any need too. It may well me the the head of an m12 doesn't even fit because it fouls on the starter, haven't checked yet. Then were confined to the helicoil.

The hicas solenoid? Yup that can go, along with all the hicas pipework. You should have three pipes on the na system. One hight pressure line from the pump to the rack, a low pressure line from the rack to pas pot and a thick 26mm? Line from the pas pot to the pump.

If your converting to the na pump etc in the process, you will need the na PAS pot, pump, pump bracket I think that's it... You don't need to replace the wiring, you need to mod the loom that goes to the box from where the hicas solenoid is there plenty of write ups, this gives you reverse lights. The starter relay needs to be shorted out, I think there are various ways to do this but I simply cut it out and joined the two blue cables, you will find this relay under the drivers side wing, remove the plastic splash shield and its sat there. Then you have pin 44 on the ECU to earth via the neutral switch, this sorts out the timing. The base idle will need to be reset as there is less mass on the drivetrain at idle therefore it will idle high, again theres good write ups for these things. Check the continuity of the neutral and reverse switches before installation of the box makes life easier. My reverse was stuffed so I utilised the switch off an xtrail I think it was, available from euro car parts for about £18 :D HTH

;) sadly been there done that. The remaining thread was obviously insufficient, and at least the lower one is hanging out I recon the top one as well now, I will have to inspect it to find out. In terms of the starter slot, a file will quickly remove 1mm off each side to allow the starter to accept the new thread. The other advantage of doing it with a pair of 12mm studs, aside from the fact I've got two lengths of m12 threaded bar sat in my utility, is the fact the starter can be slotted on and is less likely to fall off and hit me in the head during maintenance, it already hit me in the chest previously when the bottom bolt fell out and the whole starter came crashing down like a tonne of bricks on me, ouch.

Thruxton could work, as you say its pretty central. All input is welcome here guys.

That's exactly what I said in post 34. It will be less accurate but if it's totally fubar it will tell you very quickly.

The drill thickness for a m12x1.75 is 10.2mm so seeing as it's stripped I've already got a 10mm hole, just about the right size for the m12 tap to run through ;) hence why I suggested it.

It's pretty well logged in my brain :D

I Spose that depends where your stood lol, looking front the engine towards the rear of the car it's about 7 o'clock the bottom ones pretty accessible the one above the trans tunnel is in the way a bit if you were gonna drill it. Being aluminium though, and only 2mm less really as you don't drill at 12 to get a m12 thread, It's likely about 1mm of material to remove.

I noticed recently jeff said this was quite common. Anyway I fired the car up today and it made a horrific tapping noise, after starting to worry I started looking over the engine and discovered it was bottom end. More worried face. Then I pressed the clutch and it stopped, ah ha. After an inspection and a poke the starter has come loose. So I know the bottom fixing bolt was partly stripped on the gearbox female side. So, what's the best way to do it? Do I; 1. Pop the starter off the car, re drill the the holes on the starter to 12mm. Then tap the block at m12 and then install two studs and Locktye them in. 2. Same as above but use some m12 bolts. 3. Helicoil the box and refit the stock size bolts. Obviously without removing the box space isn't infinite, but it's by no means tight.

This^ You will be able to see where your leaking from and if it looses pressure without veiwable leaking it's likely loosing it to a cylinder, which if you've got the plugs out you will be able to tell.

The water pipes unbolt with some Allen heads and a bolt. 2 on the top pipe 3 on the lower. Your going to need to drain the coolant down and get some instant gasket as well. The back plate for the timing belt will still be in your way though...pull the plenum it's not that bad and you can delete and replace arces of coolant lines in the process. Why not do a cold compression test on the block before fixing the leak? At least you will know if it's proper fubar. The fuel relay needs to be removed to do the compression test so you won't have a fuel leak during this process. Hell you might even take the plugs out to find a cylinder with water in it.

Ahhhh, ok just thought you may have wanted a hand for a few hours.

The front water pipes have to come off as well I'm afraid.

Yes, those would be awesome even if they only lifted 2 feet.

Your not trying to push an auto in gear are you? I'm in hailsham on Wednesday night?

Doesn't the body lift straight off them? Fibreglass shell on a steel chassis?

Four year! God time does fly. I've got a bit of liking for the C63 AMG myself, the sound is immense. All the joys of a yank tank with the practically of a German for daily life. Il have to stick with the caddy for the time being lol.

I swear you only had the other one 20 minutes lol

Look like 17s don't they. Tbh, you can mess about with lowering springs all you wish but if you after that perfect stance you need proper height adjustable coilovers combined with suitable adjustable arms.

I detest orange, however in this instance it would suit the theme to be colour coded. Infact it would be rude to paint them anything else. - - - Updated - - - What paint did you use on them?

Think il pop down tomorrow take some pics.

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/4665415001s-new-genuine-ball-bearing-turbo-for-nissan-200sx-p-1909.html Obviously you would need two, and to piss about with them.

Rebuilds and second hand turbos often don't last long :( My he factory turbos are tbh a bit naff. They are tiny, they're old fashioned and they aren't very strong. I can't blame you for wanting to ditch them this time, I'am in the same boat. Any of the small tubs are very similar, the popular gt525 kit z1 produce for example. It's still that same dinosaur journal bearing design, albeit larger with a slightly better real seal design. So your looking for a bearing turbo that will fit. My choice is going to be the gt2560r, sold by z1 as the gt600r kit. To buy without the z1 kit they are about £550 a side. Cheap enough, but they need a conversion kit, clicking etc so not exactly straight forward.