Stephen

I don't think the Pcv are supposed to be stuff G they are just a spring non return valve designed to be sucked open by vacuum pressure, may as well fit new though while your there. It's also normal to have a film of oil in the plenum just not puddles, as the crank case gases contain oil and are injected through here.

It would run the same as normal, its simply an exhaust joint there really. I don't expect the heat involved in welding that up did it much good though. Welding cast ironull of fail in itself, it must be preheated and cooled correctly else teweld will fail, doing tisn't in the realm of someone who would do this. Utter bodge.

Your still using the z32 gearbox in its stock position yeah?

Dunno yet thatvwas one of the questions I was going to ask you. Cheers bri il call Saturday.

That reminds me sir, I need to ask you about a roofing matter. I want to change my 1970s concrete lintle porch into a peaked roof.

Fantastic size, very jealous.

Pretty sure iirc s13 or 14 I think both are the same gaitors and track rod ends are the same which can be sourced from the likes of euro car parts for sensible money. I would also do both, replace the track rod ball joint and while they are off you can do the steering rack gaitors, easier that way and you won't be pusses off taking it apart to do the other side next year when find that ones gone.

Weren't that age of mercs really bad with the electronics as well? I has a friend at that time who worked for them and he was saying about how often they broke and how he would never buy one. That being said my mother has an a class in that age bracket and whilst is a horrible car to drive mechanically it's fine.

If cylinders don't make a difference when you turn them off they arnt working, your looking for a noticeable drop in revs and usually a change in note. Go through diagnostics for each cylinder, check plug gap/condition, ohm injector, clean the connections and check you are getting spark and fuel at each cylinder. I take it ignition timing is correct and that you have cleaned and secured the CAS at ptu connections?

Your going about it all wrong mate, as said get that zed on a classic policy. Mine is also about £200 a year, to insurance it normally is twice that I checked recently. Could I get something more reliable and powerful, of corse but it would likely be butt ugly and expensive to insure. It's a classic car reep the rewards.

Thought there might be you know what your upto. Is there going to be some ducting to push the rad heat out the "centre pannel"? I'm guessing yes lol.

Would it not make life easier if the rad was flipped so the take offs were facing downwards, less bends to think about. Unless of corse there is a reason for them to be this way up.

The problem is and simon already highlighted this, the event has little buzz around it. I havent been so I don't know why. Those fancy fliers turn up I've had two make thier way to me this summer, but where's the photos from previous events? Where's the list if attendees? It feels like no one goes because of that no one goes...if you see what I'm saying. One of the hardest things to get over is the whole I don't want to meet a bunch of strangers in x place, once people have met once or twice they are more inclined to come to more events. Being able to turn upto an event and know you won't be Billy no mates is pretty important, that's why attendance lists are important.

So young. Sad stuff, really sad.

Well there's that as well yeah but you can't get any feedback that's not tainted by politics because of reasons such as what you've just mentioned. I'm not saying they are high quality or even quality probably on a par with the likes of other Chinese made components we all buy sometimes paying twice for it to be orange or blue...

They (ams) get so heavily slated and anyone who has brought stuff from them with it on 3zc it's kinda annoying because there are plenty of parts they do make that are for the money worthwhile. So many pairs of there turbo elbows and manifold etc glaring around with no issues. Their 2.5" intercooler pipes are cheap as chips in comparison, I know fitment isn't great but for half the price personally I don't mind spending a few hours mucking about, there are some genuine horror stories though. I've very tempted with those intercoolers myself so I'm glad your experience was positive gives me more faith.

Easy done lol, did you buy your intercoolers from AMS direct or through a dealer?

All depends what you want and how much you want to pay. Performance wise despite avid claims you will make few to none gains in terms of horsepower on just the exhaust, if your pushing for more power it can help and change the delivery of that power. Less lag etc but if you dynoed the same stock car on stock boost with two different systems I doubt you would see much difference in most of them. I've got a japspeed system from the turbo back, it's a nice bit of kit esp considering the low price and I wouldn't say it's too loud. The mongoose is what I'd fit if you liked to retain the stock feel and sone subtleness. There are some fantastically loud systems available from America but the cost is obviously more. Think there was a 3" megan system for sale in the uk on ebay a few weeks back bet that would be noisey.

Have you tried speaking to MJP?

Trouble is your not going to know how good or bad that tt is component wise till you've driven it more, you could go through all that faff if swapping it into your na shell only to have it have a fart in six months or so leaving you back where you started. Personally I'd want that car tt'd. Not the UK enjoy it's turbo goodness and while your enjoying that you can rebuild a tt lump and take your time to slot it in the na. I think I know how you work and I can't see you slinging in a tt block and leaving it as it, you will want to titanate with the new block get it pretty etc. Simply throwing it in now because time is tight will leave you unhappy with the result.

Maybe it's to do with the pumps, like it wouldn't prime properly or would do damage long term.

Start a project thread update it as you go and we can all help with pics links diagrams ey you will be fine

I fill my daily up every other day or so mind you the last fill up was 550 miles worth of driving lol.

Auto fly bolts are shorter due to the flex plate being thinner than the flywheel. Do it yourself dan your more than capable. As Groover said the pedals the worst bit, getting the master cyclinder done up up can be a bit fiddly as well, my mrs with her little hands did the master lol only time she's ever lifted a finger on a car. The wiring is dead easy, I god all on here but in short, Modify loom next to hicas to give you reverse lights. Your basically splicing the new and old sensor, isn't hard. Disable inhibitor switch, this is basically choping out the starter relay. So that it starts In "gear". Running a lines from the ecu to the neutral switch and to to ground, to get it to work. That's it.

Exactly that. I certainly wouldn't brim it for it to sit there for a month or two lol, could spend that money elsewhere in the meantime.